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you have to have the Flysky Receiver update assistant.
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I don't have that QR code either, though it might be in the box somewhere. Could this be preapplied by some vendors while others don't do it? For reference I got mine from HobbyKing
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Does anyone make Skins for the noble? only ones I have found is Tworks.
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Originally Posted by hyper67
(Post 15761614)
Ok, boy do I feel stupid. When I was binding the receivers I wasnt switching the model # on the TX. I figured I could do that later. Wrong ! I was continually binding all three receivers to Model #1. So the last one I bound was the only one that worked. Now I can finally install these puppies and start the model setup process. Stay tuned for more stupidity. Lol. Thanks for the help guys.
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Will be getting this rx/tx set tomorrow. Super excited. I read through the entire thread, it wasn't until I've had time to digest it that I've come up with a question. What do I need (specifically) to have the voltage of my 4s lipos relayed to my screen? Lots of good info in here, thanks to the regular posters of this thread!
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I have tested the FS-CVT01 voltage module on the FGR4P and it works amazingly well. Just pop it in the sensor port and then edit your home screen to show external voltage. I will say however, the feedback about the 'alaram' or alarm (lol) is dead on. It sounds like the StarTrek Enterprise is being attacked. And, it literally goes off when the radio sees no voltage, which is usually when you've simply turned off the car. I mean, technically its correct (the best kind of correct) but the alarm does go off when it should probably know you're just turning things off or on. Minor complaint really, just preparing you for that. It does seem to operate very well and reads precisely on my dual 6S setup. I'm soldering the connectors into my esc's XT90s, but if you just want an easy way to tap your battery voltage (not sure I'd just use those pins on the voltage sensor), I've used these in my cars, planes and boats for years.
https://www.banggood.com/Balance-Lip...-p-964898.html |
Originally Posted by Timw
(Post 15767321)
I have tested the FS-CVT01 voltage module on the FGR4P and it works amazingly well. Just pop it in the sensor port and then edit your home screen to show external voltage. I will say however, the feedback about the 'alaram' or alarm (lol) is dead on. It sounds like the StarTrek Enterprise is being attacked. And, it literally goes off when the radio sees no voltage, which is usually when you've simply turned off the car. I mean, technically its correct (the best kind of correct) but the alarm does go off when it should probably know you're just turning things off or on. Minor complaint really, just preparing you for that. It does seem to operate very well and reads precisely on my dual 6S setup. I'm soldering the connectors into my esc's XT90s, but if you just want an easy way to tap your battery voltage (not sure I'd just those pins on the voltage sensor), I've used these in my cars, planes and boats for years.
https://www.banggood.com/Balance-Lip...-p-964898.html |
cant wait for mine to get here
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In case anyone else is as annoyed at how easy it is to bump your trims, I whipped up a trim protector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4794722
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...81671cc035.jpg |
That's pretty cool.
I've found that changing those trims to work in "front/back" mode instead of "left/right" mode to help keep me from bumping them accidentally. I hadn't realized that they were 4 way and not 2 way. |
I did the same
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I've had my Noble for 2 practice sessions at the track now and aside from the sneers of the brand guys, I really like it. Best radio I've ever used, by far. Sadly, I'm pretty noob-ish when it comes to all the settings available to me now. What they are called, what they do, why they do, etc...Can anyone point me to a crash course on radio settings terminology and what their intended purposes are? Also, I use Tekin RX8 Gen 1 and 2 with hotwire. How far ahead would I be if i set the rx8's to default via hotwire and did all my fiddling with the radio instead?
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Originally Posted by phattracker
(Post 15776490)
I've had my Noble for 2 practice sessions at the track now and aside from the sneers of the brand guys, I really like it. Best radio I've ever used, by far. Sadly, I'm pretty noob-ish when it comes to all the settings available to me now. What they are called, what they do, why they do, etc...Can anyone point me to a crash course on radio settings terminology and what their intended purposes are? Also, I use Tekin RX8 Gen 1 and 2 with hotwire. How far ahead would I be if i set the rx8's to default via hotwire and did all my fiddling with the radio instead?
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I have a few questions. I got mine yesterday. I have watched a 100 videos of this controller. Everyone tells you how to attach the base battery. But nobody says how to detach it. Mine is very much stuck on, not that it matters. I prefer to leave it on anyway. But I really don't want to bang on my new radio to get the battery to come off. Another question I have is; I noticed 2 firmware versions. one is the normal one, the other is the FCC version. I went with the FCC version, and don't seem to have any issues driving around my house. But I have a race this weekend, is the FCC version ok, or should I have chosen the other version. My last question or comment is. Are there any custom button configurations you guys are using for racing? I'll share some of mine.
Lower thumb dial - steering dual rate upper thumb dial - throttle dual rate front 4 way stick FB(steering trim) LR(steering expo) back 4 way stick FB(throttle trim) LR(throttle expo) Left dial - brake rate adjust swipe up - system swipe down - model swipe left - controls assign swipe right - main menu Then I did a custom display screen display to remove ch3 and ch4 - then added steering expo/dual rate and brake rate. The timer feature is cool too. Not sure I will use it. But I have it set to start the race timer at 99% throttle then reset with the rear paddle button so I can reset it on the line. |
Originally Posted by greener74
(Post 15776568)
I have a few questions. I got mine yesterday. I have watched a 100 videos of this controller. Everyone tells you how to attach the base battery. But nobody says how to detach it. Mine is very much stuck on, not that it matters. I prefer to leave it on anyway. But I really don't want to bang on my new radio to get the battery to come off. Another question I have is; I noticed 2 firmware versions. one is the normal one, the other is the FCC version. I went with the FCC version, and don't seem to have any issues driving around my house. But I have a race this weekend, is the FCC version ok, or should I have chosen the other version. My last question or comment is. Are there any custom button configurations you guys are using for racing? I'll share some of mine.
Lower thumb dial - steering dual rate upper thumb dial - throttle dual rate front 4 way stick FB(steering trim) LR(steering expo) back 4 way stick FB(throttle trim) LR(throttle expo) Left dial - brake rate adjust swipe up - system swipe down - model swipe left - controls assign swipe right - main menu Then I did a custom display screen display to remove ch3 and ch4 - then added steering expo/dual rate and brake rate. The timer feature is cool too. Not sure I will use it. But I have it set to start the race timer at 99% throttle then reset with the rear paddle button so I can reset it on the line. |
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