Help choose LiPo
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 9
Hey guys I'm going to buy a HobbyWing Justock ESC (60A) and HobbyWing Justock 21.5T 2050kv motor for buggy 2wd, which LiPo should I chose for this build ? Also if it's possible please list best manufactures of the LiPo.
P.S. In future I'm going to buy HobbyWing XR10 Pro Stock spec(80A) + HobbyWing v10 G3 13.5t motor for my TC10 stock, so I will need some LiPo, can I buy same LiPo for both cars ?
P.S. In future I'm going to buy HobbyWing XR10 Pro Stock spec(80A) + HobbyWing v10 G3 13.5t motor for my TC10 stock, so I will need some LiPo, can I buy same LiPo for both cars ?
#2
Hey guys I'm going to buy a HobbyWing Justock ESC (60A) and HobbyWing Justock 21.5T 2050kv motor for buggy 2wd, which LiPo should I chose for this build ? Also if it's possible please list best manufactures of the LiPo.
P.S. In future I'm going to buy HobbyWing XR10 Pro Stock spec(80A) + HobbyWing v10 G3 13.5t motor for my TC10 stock, so I will need some LiPo, can I buy same LiPo for both cars ?
P.S. In future I'm going to buy HobbyWing XR10 Pro Stock spec(80A) + HobbyWing v10 G3 13.5t motor for my TC10 stock, so I will need some LiPo, can I buy same LiPo for both cars ?
And of course a good battery deserves a good reliable charger, which should be another consideration that you might want to include in your wishlist.
There are a couple of discussion threads here and some online articles that might be helpful for you - worth checking them out. Some of them are listed below.
Best shorty lipo for stock class buggy
Which 2S Lipo for 17.5 2wd buggy?
Big Squid RC’s Li-po Battery Shootout!
Good luck to you Sir. Have fun and enjoy the hobby.
#3
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 406
i'm a big fan of the turnigy ultimate nano-techs and turnigy graphene batteries. they go on sale regularly for under $50, and i've yet to have a batter go above 3 IR... though i do replace them every year or so because they're cheap so why not?
#4
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,410
From: Austin,TX
The latest trend is high capacity and high voltage cells, most are not ROAR approved, but the club in my area will allow them provided you don't charge above 8.4V.
The HV cells will tend to maintain a lower IR and provide higher punch for longer. Doesn't really matter what brand you choose, any HV pack will do great... in no particular order here are some brands that I have grown to trust:
* SMC
* ValueHobby
* ProMatch
* RCJuice
The HV cells will tend to maintain a lower IR and provide higher punch for longer. Doesn't really matter what brand you choose, any HV pack will do great... in no particular order here are some brands that I have grown to trust:
* SMC
* ValueHobby
* ProMatch
* RCJuice
#5
I came looking for the same advice. I think the LHS sells shorty packs for $75.. thought I could get some cheaper, but as I look around they are either not in stock, much larger/heavier than I want, not roar approved (not sure why I care about that I don't do any large events but maybe I will) or have 5mm plugs when all my stuff is currently wired for 4mm plugs. After taxes, shipping.. etc.. looks like the packs I am looking at are not all that much cheaper than what the LHS sells.
It is for a 2wd 17.5 buggy - want high voltage, 3800-4200mah shorty pack. 4mm plugs would be ideal but converting over to 5mm would not be difficult just annoying since I just converted everything over from deans to 4mm plugs.
I prefer to buy from the LHS when it is reasonable to support them so that is how I am leaning right now, but if anyone has specific recommendations I will for sure check them out.
It is for a 2wd 17.5 buggy - want high voltage, 3800-4200mah shorty pack. 4mm plugs would be ideal but converting over to 5mm would not be difficult just annoying since I just converted everything over from deans to 4mm plugs.
I prefer to buy from the LHS when it is reasonable to support them so that is how I am leaning right now, but if anyone has specific recommendations I will for sure check them out.
#7
I came looking for the same advice. I think the LHS sells shorty packs for $75.. thought I could get some cheaper, but as I look around they are either not in stock, much larger/heavier than I want, not roar approved (not sure why I care about that I don't do any large events but maybe I will) or have 5mm plugs when all my stuff is currently wired for 4mm plugs. After taxes, shipping.. etc.. looks like the packs I am looking at are not all that much cheaper than what the LHS sells.
It is for a 2wd 17.5 buggy - want high voltage, 3800-4200mah shorty pack. 4mm plugs would be ideal but converting over to 5mm would not be difficult just annoying since I just converted everything over from deans to 4mm plugs.
I prefer to buy from the LHS when it is reasonable to support them so that is how I am leaning right now, but if anyone has specific recommendations I will for sure check them out.
It is for a 2wd 17.5 buggy - want high voltage, 3800-4200mah shorty pack. 4mm plugs would be ideal but converting over to 5mm would not be difficult just annoying since I just converted everything over from deans to 4mm plugs.
I prefer to buy from the LHS when it is reasonable to support them so that is how I am leaning right now, but if anyone has specific recommendations I will for sure check them out.
#8
Do the graphene packs really last much longer? they are only about $10 more.. but again after tax and shipping the cost gets close to what the LHS sells.
#9
No, there's no reason to get the Turnigy Graphene over the nanotech, many of us aren't convinced they're not just the same cells rebranded. Graphene packs are usually higher voltage or lighter than the regulars, but these aren't.
#10
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,410
From: Austin,TX
I have moved on to other brands that support LiHV cells, they tend to provide lower resistance and are lasting considerably longer for me.
#12
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,944
From: Santa Clarita, CA
The latest trend is high capacity and high voltage cells, most are not ROAR approved, but the club in my area will allow them provided you don't charge above 8.4V.
The HV cells will tend to maintain a lower IR and provide higher punch for longer. Doesn't really matter what brand you choose, any HV pack will do great... in no particular order here are some brands that I have grown to trust:
* SMC
* ValueHobby
* ProMatch
* RCJuice
The HV cells will tend to maintain a lower IR and provide higher punch for longer. Doesn't really matter what brand you choose, any HV pack will do great... in no particular order here are some brands that I have grown to trust:
* SMC
* ValueHobby
* ProMatch
* RCJuice
#13
I race 2 of those brands...they are good..but the casing is weak. The case splits easily after 2 months of racing. I've been running the Maclan 6000mah HVs and the casing is so much better....pricier but so much better. I've been racing with it for 3 months now . Thinking of getting a backup like the IP Intellect 6000mah... $20 cheaper than the Maclan. I heard it's the same battery and IP Intellects makes batteries for Maclan , Protek, and a bunch of high end brands.
#14
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,410
From: Austin,TX
I have seen folks split packs on the first charge... very easy to do if you charge them on 30A+
I typically charge my packs at 10A and don't have any issue with splitting my packs, I run then down to LVC at the end of each race day and store them indoors, being careful to charge them at the track. I have heard of cases where folks have charged their packs inside a cool house, then transport their packs in the hot trunk of their car only to discover their packs had split by the time they got to the track. I also keep my packs up front in my car with the A/C blowing on them in transport.
I typically charge my packs at 10A and don't have any issue with splitting my packs, I run then down to LVC at the end of each race day and store them indoors, being careful to charge them at the track. I have heard of cases where folks have charged their packs inside a cool house, then transport their packs in the hot trunk of their car only to discover their packs had split by the time they got to the track. I also keep my packs up front in my car with the A/C blowing on them in transport.



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