Hi guys, im having some issues with soldering now hope u guys can help.

i`m trying to solder wires to my new esc. and this is my problem.
using a
20/200W gun
60/40 solder led.
tried tinning the ESC wire connectors
problem now is i can`t get the wires to sit in and there is a massive amount of solder on all of the connectors .i cant get them out despite holding my solder onto them for a long time till my ESC gets really hot.
tried putting in new solder onto the connectors to melt them but it just hardens up. that was actually how i got those massive amount of solder onto the connectors.
2 of the connectors dropped out because of the heat, causing the socket solder to melt. i managed to put them back, they melt easier.

Am i using wrong soldering led?
how can i remove the excessive led now without overheating my ESC (causeing a desoldering effect)
attached is how it is now.

can anyone help pls.

thanks

I use a 50W iron with a chisel tip... it's very important to select a chisel tip that is at least as wide as the diameter of the wire you are working with. You want to tin both surfaces so they are wet at the same time, basically sandwiching the chisel tip between the wire and the ESC tab, then slowly pull the iron away as both pieces fit together.... similar concept here:

more than likely that esc is trashed now. you disoldered more than just the main contacts. get a less watt gun. and some good 63/37 solder rosin core. water soluble. good luck.if your going to continue to try and use this esc have a battery you wont mind seeing it go up in a smoke then flames. test outside in safe area.. have a bucket of sand ready to poor on flames.i use a 80 watt Unger and good solder. short time touch with my iron tin all contacts 1st.

if that esc was mine i say lesson learned move on to another wire correct gear in hands practice more.

I recently ventured down this same road. Soldered the crap out of a Tekin RX8. I eventually went to an electronics store and bought a little divice that sucks up hot solder and some stuff on a reel that does the same. That cleaned it up so I could redo it. I didn't cook the ESC, but after some thought, I think I weakened the post's internal connections working on it so much. One post was disfigured when I was done with it, and thad a post break off first time at the track.

I moved on, and just accepted my costly mistake. The guy at my local track made a good point, that when pre tinning the ESC, only apply a small amount of solder. He would load up the wire pretty good, but take it easy on the ESC. I Had better luck(still not perfect) second round by doing this and raising the temp on my iron so I spent less time melting the solder.
Hi

Good idea to put some flux on the wire ends and terminals first. Helps clean the joint and lets the solder stick better. I don't solder new stuff without it.

You can save this, I have faith in you. DO NOT LISTEN TO "THE RC GUY"

Dont use a solder gun, your shooting your self in the foot with that thing. Also dont use some wimpy iron like billdelong(lol chisel tip), get a good soldering station like , or get a weller. I'm sure you can find either in Singapore.

Second get some really good solder, something like this . I had some cheap Chinese crap that gave me problems just like your having.

Then get a good solder sucker or desolding wick. Something like
After you get these things, which are quality of life upgrades. Your going to need to add some fresh new solder to those contacts, get some good solder mixed in the bad stuff. This will help the solder flow out. To get the solder out, use your solder sucker, it's better for removing large build up.

Please dont throw this esc away, you can save it.

TXloser, you didn't throw that away did you?

cant wait to read the follow up on this.. fire sale pending..LOL

Curious as well, that certainly still looks salvageable.

No. Per Tekin, can't fix the post, but sent it back for the discounted replacement.

Oh, one of the tekin guys saved that. I'm glad you didn't just throw it away.

I would caution against using water soluble solder on an ESC. All the water soluble fluxes I'm aware are aggressive to begin with and get more so with heat and humidity. They are also somewhat conductive and can cause problems with high impedance devices, such as transistors. For that reason water soluble flux must be removed, throroughly, which normally at least means running warm water over the entire device.
Rosin flux, while looking ugly if not removed, at least won't hurt anything.

This is good info.

I've always seen it suggested to wash boards off with lots of 90%+ de-natured alcohol instead of water. Would alcohol and a tooth brush not remove this stuff?

Maybe I'm jaded but of course they'll say it can't be fixed so they can sell the replacement Not saying fixing it yourself would necessarily be easy.

Rosin core flux can be removed with alcohol but I would only use warm water for water soluble flux, then blow off with compressed air. Deionized water is preferred but not usually something you'd have around the house.