28LikesHobbywing XR10 Just Stock, stock spec, and pro
11-07-2021, 01:51 PM
#106
In any case the 3.75 is the default setting and I just went with it. I ache tested the car and it runs just fine running around the kids playroom. Didn’t have to mess with anything on controller motor rotation is normal.
sorry for stirring the pot a bit. Never my intent. I was just curious as to what it was.
sorry for stirring the pot a bit. Never my intent. I was just curious as to what it was.
I'd strongly suggest you don't try to use the V1 software with that ESC anymore. You'd be best served trying to fix the connectivity issue with V2. What have you tried so far? Have you gone into the settings to ensure you've picked WiFi instead of Bluetooth?
11-08-2021, 04:13 PM
#107
I have double checked that the connection is Wi-Fi, I have disabled/forgotten all other Wi-Fi connections on my phone. I have in installed and re- installed the app. Only thing I haven’t done is delete the V1 app. And I will not do that until I know the v2 will connect.
as mentioned in previous post, it’s not just JUSTOCK G3, it’s also the stock spec that will not connect to the v2 app.
also not getting the Bluetooth module when the one I have is less than a few month old. They released the Bluetooth one literally days after I purchased the “old” Wi-Fi only module.
if you are a HW rep, I’ll be happy to discuss a walkthrough via PM on how to get the V2 app to work. I came back to HW from another name brand company that makes great electronics, that I can actually get a tad cheaper due to connectivity issues with their Wi-Fi module. Is really like for this to work since I like HW products better and they offer wider range that suites my racing needs.
as mentioned in previous post, it’s not just JUSTOCK G3, it’s also the stock spec that will not connect to the v2 app.
also not getting the Bluetooth module when the one I have is less than a few month old. They released the Bluetooth one literally days after I purchased the “old” Wi-Fi only module.
if you are a HW rep, I’ll be happy to discuss a walkthrough via PM on how to get the V2 app to work. I came back to HW from another name brand company that makes great electronics, that I can actually get a tad cheaper due to connectivity issues with their Wi-Fi module. Is really like for this to work since I like HW products better and they offer wider range that suites my racing needs.
11-08-2021, 09:51 PM
#108
I have double checked that the connection is Wi-Fi, I have disabled/forgotten all other Wi-Fi connections on my phone. I have in installed and re- installed the app. Only thing I haven’t done is delete the V1 app. And I will not do that until I know the v2 will connect.
as mentioned in previous post, it’s not just JUSTOCK G3, it’s also the stock spec that will not connect to the v2 app.
also not getting the Bluetooth module when the one I have is less than a few month old. They released the Bluetooth one literally days after I purchased the “old” Wi-Fi only module.
if you are a HW rep, I’ll be happy to discuss a walkthrough via PM on how to get the V2 app to work. I came back to HW from another name brand company that makes great electronics, that I can actually get a tad cheaper due to connectivity issues with their Wi-Fi module. Is really like for this to work since I like HW products better and they offer wider range that suites my racing needs.
as mentioned in previous post, it’s not just JUSTOCK G3, it’s also the stock spec that will not connect to the v2 app.
also not getting the Bluetooth module when the one I have is less than a few month old. They released the Bluetooth one literally days after I purchased the “old” Wi-Fi only module.
if you are a HW rep, I’ll be happy to discuss a walkthrough via PM on how to get the V2 app to work. I came back to HW from another name brand company that makes great electronics, that I can actually get a tad cheaper due to connectivity issues with their Wi-Fi module. Is really like for this to work since I like HW products better and they offer wider range that suites my racing needs.
One thing that I had to do to get WiFi to work is to make sure I answer "Yes" when it says that no internet is connected, do I want to keep the connection, but make sure I DO NOT check the box to remember the setting.
11-09-2021, 06:11 PM
#109
I was able to get the V2 app to work on my daughters iPad mini. you were correct about the thermal shutoff being replaced by the AMTS option in the V1 app and turned off when shown on the V2 app. Funny enough, when I connected the v2 app to the stock spec ESC, none of the setting I used in the V1 app were in place. So I reset everything with the v2 app to the setting I like.
After doing this, I deleted the v1 from my phone, and forgot the hobbywing link network. Downloaded the v2, reconnected to the hobbywing link and it all works well again!
After doing this, I deleted the v1 from my phone, and forgot the hobbywing link network. Downloaded the v2, reconnected to the hobbywing link and it all works well again!
11-09-2021, 07:31 PM
#110
I was able to get the V2 app to work on my daughters iPad mini. you were correct about the thermal shutoff being replaced by the AMTS option in the V1 app and turned off when shown on the V2 app. Funny enough, when I connected the v2 app to the stock spec ESC, none of the setting I used in the V1 app were in place. So I reset everything with the v2 app to the setting I like.
After doing this, I deleted the v1 from my phone, and forgot the hobbywing link network. Downloaded the v2, reconnected to the hobbywing link and it all works well again!
After doing this, I deleted the v1 from my phone, and forgot the hobbywing link network. Downloaded the v2, reconnected to the hobbywing link and it all works well again!
11-21-2021, 11:43 AM
#111
Hi guys,
My XR10 G2 red light would "blink once, then stays solid" when in blinky mode (zero timing). Is that normal? If not, how do i fix that?
(Nvm, I found out why.....my transmitter was not turned on. LOL)
My XR10 G2 red light would "blink once, then stays solid" when in blinky mode (zero timing). Is that normal? If not, how do i fix that?
(Nvm, I found out why.....my transmitter was not turned on. LOL)
11-09-2023, 01:46 PM
#112
Hi team,
Is it possible to use justock G3 with 17.5 teampowers V4 (about 40-50° endbell timing) on my touring Xray X4F (5.0 ratio)
It is better to use XR10 Stock Spec ?
Thx
Is it possible to use justock G3 with 17.5 teampowers V4 (about 40-50° endbell timing) on my touring Xray X4F (5.0 ratio)
It is better to use XR10 Stock Spec ?
Thx
11-10-2023, 04:41 PM
#114
So he asks if the Justock is sufficient or if the Stock Spec would be better instead and you simply say "yes"?
Come to think about it, "yes" is actually kinda correct for both - just keep in mind the Stock Spec may be better, but it's not needed for that motor.
11-10-2023, 06:54 PM
#115
Just wondering, why do you think the Justock shouldn't work? 17.5T is pretty much the class it was designed for (HW even rates it up to 10.5T). So yes, the Justock can handle that motor just fine. However, the Stock Spec used to be an overall better ESC (just lacks the polarity protection of the G2 Pro and the G3 Justock, which is a shame. Come on Hobbywing update the Stock Spec, too!) - but more expensive as well.
So he asks if the Justock is sufficient or if the Stock Spec would be better instead and you simply say "yes"? Come to think about it, "yes" is actually kinda correct for both - just keep in mind the Stock Spec may be better, but it's not needed for that motor.
So he asks if the Justock is sufficient or if the Stock Spec would be better instead and you simply say "yes"?
Come to think about it, "yes" is actually kinda correct for both - just keep in mind the Stock Spec may be better, but it's not needed for that motor.LOL...
I tried to give a simple answer and I was sure others would be chiming in and giving more elaborate info, so I didn't bother going into more detail.
11-11-2023, 01:20 AM
#117
Because powerfull Team Powers V4 17.5 with a lot of endbell timing requires much more current than simple 17.5 fixed timing
In local races we have to use a zero timing esc but we can put timing on the motor
What is the gain with the stock spec in zero timing mode ( just more esc settings or more power )
In local races we have to use a zero timing esc but we can put timing on the motor
What is the gain with the stock spec in zero timing mode ( just more esc settings or more power )
11-11-2023, 03:52 AM
#118
Because powerfull Team Powers V4 17.5 with a lot of endbell timing requires much more current than simple 17.5 fixed timing
In local races we have to use a zero timing esc but we can put timing on the motor
What is the gain with the stock spec in zero timing mode ( just more esc settings or more power )
In local races we have to use a zero timing esc but we can put timing on the motor
What is the gain with the stock spec in zero timing mode ( just more esc settings or more power )
The Stock Spec used to have more/finer settings/parameters and (much) better brakes. Possibly a bit more power available (less internal resistance) - at least I've heard people claim that. Oh and the Stock Spec is quite a bit smaller than the Justock. But the Justock G3 has no external capacitors any more and is reverse polarity protected... so, it's really up to you.
03-21-2024, 10:49 PM
#119
Tech Apprentice
I picked up an XR10 Justock ESC / G2.1 17.5T motor combo from my LHS last month, and I was quite surprised to see in the fold-out manual that there's no cut-off protection (also seen in waitwhat post above.
If I buy the LCD Program Box, would that allow me to set a voltage cutoff?
If I buy the LCD Program Box, would that allow me to set a voltage cutoff?
03-24-2024, 01:51 PM
#120
XR10 1s calibration problem
I have a brand new XR 10 stock spec one S. I’m setting it up on a new 12 scale car but after calibrating it it doesn’t seem I’m getting full throttle.
have a Sanwa radio the throttle channel set to normal. The endpoints are set up to 100 and 100% and I follow the calibration process as any instructions. At full break I get solid green at neutral I get red blinking but at full throttle, I get green, blinking.
have a Sanwa radio the throttle channel set to normal. The endpoints are set up to 100 and 100% and I follow the calibration process as any instructions. At full break I get solid green at neutral I get red blinking but at full throttle, I get green, blinking.