Help in rebuilding BL motor
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 21
From: Belgium
Hi, I'm re-entering the hobby. When I stopped it was still brushed motors with Nimh batteries, so lots to learn.
I've started by taking apart the used cars that I bought as well as the BL motor in one of them as everything was filled with carpet residue.
Obviously it took longer than planned to start the rebuild of the motor, so I'm not entirely sure anymore how everything fit together.
I've tried looking for the motor on the web, but it's an old one and not much to be found (GM Dr. Speed with a silver can, could be #97259, #97262, #97267, #97277, #972)
Questions I have currently:
1.When I took everything apart, I sprayed the inside of the can (and tried to clean it with some cotton swabs) and the rotor with brake cleaner and left it to dry out (I don't have an air blaster). Was this a good idea? I got the tip from somewhere on this forum (been reading so much I wouldn't know where I found it anymore) --> apparently no, compressed air only
2.Is it important how I insert the rotor before closing it? As there is a blue mark on it and I did not see that when disassembling it. There is a blue mark on the can (endbell?) as well, I believe this is to know/adjust timing. I left that in the position it was. I tried to line both (rotor vs can) up but there's no match there. --> stupid question I guess since the rotor spins anyway
3.where does the shim/spacer thing go? Does something need to line up with something here? --> only one place it would fit
4. should/can I replace the bearings? I took them out and blasted them with brake cleaner. I have Hudy bearing oil that I can apply to them, but one of them feels/sounds very gritty. How can I tell if they have the right quality as I suspect this requires higher strenght than bearings used in wheels? Before you start posting any links to stores, I'm in Europe..
5. on the outside, there is no mention of the windings/turns (not sure if those words are used for brushless, but hope you know what I mean), any way I can tell?
6. the plastic on the endbell is cracked, but I don't think this is a big problem as long as it stays on?
7. should I loctite the screws (i think so) or lube (don' think so) anything else?
8. when I unsoldered the wires, something came off the welding tabs, you'll see what I mean in the pictures. Will this be a problem? Should I try to glue it back on before soldering the wires back?
Want to upload some pictures, but not a premium member yet (how many posts do you need for this?).
Appreciate any help to any of the questions!
Stijn
I've started by taking apart the used cars that I bought as well as the BL motor in one of them as everything was filled with carpet residue.
Obviously it took longer than planned to start the rebuild of the motor, so I'm not entirely sure anymore how everything fit together.
I've tried looking for the motor on the web, but it's an old one and not much to be found (GM Dr. Speed with a silver can, could be #97259, #97262, #97267, #97277, #972)
Questions I have currently:
1.
2.
3.
4. should/can I replace the bearings? I took them out and blasted them with brake cleaner. I have Hudy bearing oil that I can apply to them, but one of them feels/sounds very gritty. How can I tell if they have the right quality as I suspect this requires higher strenght than bearings used in wheels? Before you start posting any links to stores, I'm in Europe..
5. on the outside, there is no mention of the windings/turns (not sure if those words are used for brushless, but hope you know what I mean), any way I can tell?
6. the plastic on the endbell is cracked, but I don't think this is a big problem as long as it stays on?
7. should I loctite the screws (i think so) or lube (don' think so) anything else?
8. when I unsoldered the wires, something came off the welding tabs, you'll see what I mean in the pictures. Will this be a problem? Should I try to glue it back on before soldering the wires back?
Want to upload some pictures, but not a premium member yet (how many posts do you need for this?).
Appreciate any help to any of the questions!
Stijn
Last edited by Stinj; 05-03-2018 at 12:06 PM. Reason: solved some questions
#2
Suspended
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 781
You are spending a bunch of time for no reason. Sounds like the motor is basically garbage. Brake parts cleaner is not good for bearings or electronics. You could spend a bunch of time and money trying to get this unknown motor to work, only to have it burn up when you use it. It could very well burn out your esc too.
Also, you can post pictures directly to your posts by clicking the paper clip above where you type your post. What came off the solder post was probably a glob of solder with wire bits from old wires.
Also, you can post pictures directly to your posts by clicking the paper clip above where you type your post. What came off the solder post was probably a glob of solder with wire bits from old wires.
#3
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 21
From: Belgium
I like taking everything apart to begin with so I understand how it fits together and works. It also won't be the last time I take one apart if the bug bites me hard again so knowing the best way to clean it, replacing bearings yes or no, using loctite or not... would all come in handy. Also not planning on investing much in electronics to begin with, so I'd rather start with the electronics it came with as it clearly worked the last time it was driven.
I've found the answer to question 3, only one logic position.
I've found the answer to question 3, only one logic position.
Last edited by Stinj; 05-01-2018 at 01:04 AM. Reason: Got the picture upload working
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 1,417
From: San Jose CA
I take my race motors apart every 2 or 3 races. Open it up, note where the shims go, try not to lose any. Take it all apart, shoot some motor cleaner in there, clean it up, oil the bearings, put it back together - no thread locker on the screws, set the timing.
Getting bearings out can be a challenge depending on the housing - may need a bearing puller.
There are several videos on You Tube that would help.
#8
Tech Addict
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 734
From: California
1. Use motor spray from Duratrax (power shot). Spray everything and it will de-grease the inside of the motor. Make sure to pray the copper windings and oil the bearings afterward.
2. Not sure what you're talking about.
3. answered already
4. Replace if gritty. Should be smooth.
5. This motor is so old, you won't be able to find out.
6. It probably isn't good in the long run but with such a cheap motor, it won't hurt to experiment.
7. No loctite and only lube the bearings.
8. It's probably old solder so just throw it away.
Chances are, use a cheap esc with this motor so that if it burns out, it won't cost too much to replace. After experimenting, I would buy a nice motor and go from there. I hear that hobbywing is pretty big in Europe.
2. Not sure what you're talking about.
3. answered already
4. Replace if gritty. Should be smooth.
5. This motor is so old, you won't be able to find out.
6. It probably isn't good in the long run but with such a cheap motor, it won't hurt to experiment.
7. No loctite and only lube the bearings.
8. It's probably old solder so just throw it away.
Chances are, use a cheap esc with this motor so that if it burns out, it won't cost too much to replace. After experimenting, I would buy a nice motor and go from there. I hear that hobbywing is pretty big in Europe.







