Throttle Punch & ESC Fire Question
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 83
Just blew up the stock 70 amp Fuze ESC on my Halix.
I was running the ESC throttle punch on the stock setting of 75%.
Right before i took it outside, I was programming my DX4S Tx and changed the Throttle Punch setting on the radio from 0% to 25%.
I did one speed run, turned the truck around and as I was starting to head back it made a grating sound, let out the magic smoke, and then caught on fire. Fortunately got the body off and 3S MA batt out before anything besides the ESC was ruined.
I'm wondering if because I boosted the TP on the Tx, it drew too much current while on throttle, causing the ESC to blow.
I'm assuming if I run 75% on the ESC and 25% on the Tx, that i'm now collectively running 100%?
Should I be picking either the ESC or the Tx to adjust throttle punch, not both, and then whichever one i'm not using for Throttle Punch, leave that one on 0%?
Anyone else have an experience with this?
Thanks, Mark D.
I was running the ESC throttle punch on the stock setting of 75%.
Right before i took it outside, I was programming my DX4S Tx and changed the Throttle Punch setting on the radio from 0% to 25%.
I did one speed run, turned the truck around and as I was starting to head back it made a grating sound, let out the magic smoke, and then caught on fire. Fortunately got the body off and 3S MA batt out before anything besides the ESC was ruined.
I'm wondering if because I boosted the TP on the Tx, it drew too much current while on throttle, causing the ESC to blow.
I'm assuming if I run 75% on the ESC and 25% on the Tx, that i'm now collectively running 100%?
Should I be picking either the ESC or the Tx to adjust throttle punch, not both, and then whichever one i'm not using for Throttle Punch, leave that one on 0%?
Anyone else have an experience with this?
Thanks, Mark D.
Last edited by Mark102780; 02-17-2018 at 11:09 AM.
#3
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,410
From: Austin,TX
Did you change your gearing for 3S?
Pretty sure the stock gearing is designed for 2S, so if you increase the voltage then you would typically need to gear down and check temps.
Kinda sucks the thermal protection didn't kick in, regardless I wouldn't feel comfortable running a 70A ESC on 3S with a 4000kV motor which is listed in the specs, that just doesn't add up in my book because your gearing options would be far too limited
Other factors to consider are if you increased your wheel size too which would also put extra stress on the system.
Pretty sure the stock gearing is designed for 2S, so if you increase the voltage then you would typically need to gear down and check temps.
Kinda sucks the thermal protection didn't kick in, regardless I wouldn't feel comfortable running a 70A ESC on 3S with a 4000kV motor which is listed in the specs, that just doesn't add up in my book because your gearing options would be far too limited
Other factors to consider are if you increased your wheel size too which would also put extra stress on the system.
#4
Thread Starter
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 83
Did you change your gearing for 3S?
Pretty sure the stock gearing is designed for 2S, so if you increase the voltage then you would typically need to gear down and check temps.
Kinda sucks the thermal protection didn't kick in, regardless I wouldn't feel comfortable running a 70A ESC on 3S with a 4000kV motor which is listed in the specs, that just doesn't add up in my book because your gearing options would be far too limited
Other factors to consider are if you increased your wheel size too which would also put extra stress on the system.
Pretty sure the stock gearing is designed for 2S, so if you increase the voltage then you would typically need to gear down and check temps.
Kinda sucks the thermal protection didn't kick in, regardless I wouldn't feel comfortable running a 70A ESC on 3S with a 4000kV motor which is listed in the specs, that just doesn't add up in my book because your gearing options would be far too limited
Other factors to consider are if you increased your wheel size too which would also put extra stress on the system.
Mark
#5
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,410
From: Austin,TX
I would invest in a temp gun and follow these limits:
Battery < 120°F
ESC < 140°F
Motor < 160°F
Some manufacturers may list higher temps than these limits, but that's just to protect them from not failing before the warranty expires, typically 90 days for most brands of electronics.
Sounds to me like you pushed the limit and got your money's worth after the warranty expired... I would go up to higher rated ESC and check temps regularly.
If it were me, I'd upgrade to this ESC here if I was gonna run on 3S, this ESC will stand the test of time:
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/prod...nt=20187925828
If I was short on cash, I've had luck with this ESC too, but you get what you pay for, I've had to replace the switch on these ESC's, but they typically last 1-2 years before they have failed on me:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykin...e-version.html
Battery < 120°F
ESC < 140°F
Motor < 160°F
Some manufacturers may list higher temps than these limits, but that's just to protect them from not failing before the warranty expires, typically 90 days for most brands of electronics.
Sounds to me like you pushed the limit and got your money's worth after the warranty expired... I would go up to higher rated ESC and check temps regularly.
If it were me, I'd upgrade to this ESC here if I was gonna run on 3S, this ESC will stand the test of time:
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/prod...nt=20187925828
If I was short on cash, I've had luck with this ESC too, but you get what you pay for, I've had to replace the switch on these ESC's, but they typically last 1-2 years before they have failed on me:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykin...e-version.html




