nodrog

what's the opinion on these servos?

I'm considering the 170T for steering in buggy and truggy and the 150S for throttle (higgins series).

I'm wondering how much power draw I would see going with a servo of this size compared to a savox 2274. I've never had to worry about charging the receiver pack for club racing or practice days and I'm wondering if I will using the higher torque servos.

thanks

Aligater

iTrader: (10)

Not sure why you'd want the 170t, it's slower than the 170sbl, and I doubt you need 600+ oz/in for a buggy.

I have the Sbl in my truggy and it's been great.

But if your set on the 170t chad B version is on sale at amain for 140 or 155 for the clearance scratch and dent version, lol.

Engine Guy

Actually your brakes usually place more of a demand on a servo then steering.

I myself run dual 170SBL's in my buggy. More torque then you need for either but the holding power of the servos is rock solid. I Also really like the fact that you can choose a leed length that does not leave you with a pile of extra wire wrapped up somewhere!

The 170SBL's are great servos, also the nice thing about this is you have one spare for both positions in your car. I do not like the 170T's to slow.

Also the SBL is newer more energy efficient tech the the regular 170T. the BL's are a brushless corelesst tech that uses less power, is smoother and various other things.

rustyus

iTrader: (1)

Been running a lower end ProTek RC 100 series servo in my rock racer for the past two years as a testing ground for potential future purchases. I'm surprised with results so far. I would recommend the ProTek RC servos to anyone.

Horatio

Both 170 SBL & TBL servos both use the newer brushless motors (they are basically identical other than the gearing - the SBL geared for speed, the TBL geared for torque). The older (now discontinued) 170T used a coreless motor and has less torque and speed than the current 170TBL. The 170S coreless (also discontinued) was actually faster and torqier than the SBL at 7.4v! But brushless motors have greater longevity. Spool up is the coreless motor's Ace card.

I use a 170 TBL for throttle/brake and 170SBL for steering in my XT8. This is what the Drake uses in his Mugen MBX8 T.

RCSteveH

iTrader: (6)

sebtarta

iTrader: (7)

Try BKServo,

ramjesr

What are you using for a throttle return spring? I'm thinking of using an exhaust manifold spring just in case I loose battery power. I am running the 170TBL the servo horn is really hard to turn with no power to it.

1/8 IC Fan

iTrader: (97)

Ran 170Ts in my truggies (MBX7T - Tekno EB48T series) since they were the gray case and well after the black case... never an issue. They always worked. Reliable as a stone, never had an issue with their draw on a NiMh or LiPo receiver pack. CS is great as stated.

Juglenaut

iTrader: (16)

I just use a few of those rubber pony tail thingys

Juglenaut

iTrader: (16)

I am either getting a 170sbl, a ST8HV-SR, or a Tekin T300

Horatio

I'm not actually using a TRS on my XT8 17. I have a failsafe on my receiver, so I trust it will assist with a low voltage situation. In a no voltage situation, I get that a TRS would be the last line of defence.

However, on balance, with my Protek servos being quite stiff to turn, you'd need a pretty strong spring to shift it. There lies the problem - the strength of the spring required and the fact that it would be putting a constant load and acting against the servo 100% of the time. The TRS could actually end up being the cause of a higher than normal current draw on the throttle servo/battery pack.