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Buy a new $3 gear or a new $50 servo, your choice.
I would bet that 90% of the 'metal gear servos' have a plastic 1st gear to prevent the servo from blowing up completely. There always has to be a weak point. If not for that $3 gear, it's the case/servo pins. Make those stronger and you blow the nose off the servo, etc. |
$50 just plain can't get you a premium servo
$90 will get you there, Futaba IMO is the best, have an S9551 that's older than any car I have ever put it in lol |
Originally Posted by Adamska27
(Post 15147182)
$50 just plain can't get you a premium servo
$90 will get you there, Futaba IMO is the best, have an S9551 that's older than any car I have ever put it in lol |
Originally Posted by whitrzac
(Post 15147167)
Buy a new $3 gear or a new $50 servo, your choice.
I would bet that 90% of the 'metal gear servos' have a plastic 1st gear to prevent the servo from blowing up completely. There always has to be a weak point. If not for that $3 gear, it's the case/servo pins. Make those stronger and you blow the nose off the servo, etc. Modern electronics are insanely durable. But not bullet proof. I'll stop there before I go off on a tangent about....well let's just leave it at that. |
So as I mentioned 1 plastic gear.
The point is that when that plastic gear is stripped there is something wrong with the car.... no or a too tight servo saver? |
Most, if not all, metal gear servos have a plastic gear to protect the motor. Easier to replace gears than the motor. Unfortunately, most don't sell just the plastic gear but the whole gear set. Unless you can find the compatible gear set in plastic. Cheaper servos have their place and expensive servos are not indestructible. Driver needs to know the limitations and/or build in protection.
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Originally Posted by whitrzac
(Post 15147167)
Buy a new $3 gear or a new $50 servo, your choice.
I would bet that 90% of the 'metal gear servos' have a plastic 1st gear to prevent the servo from blowing up completely. There always has to be a weak point. If not for that $3 gear, it's the case/servo pins. Make those stronger and you blow the nose off the servo, etc. You want a planned place of failure, why do you think they put lines in concrete. Replacement plastic gear for your spectrum I couldnt find one for your Hitec in the 5 seconds I looked. |
Originally Posted by Roelof
(Post 15147191)
So as I mentioned 1 plastic gear.
The point is that when that plastic gear is stripped there is something wrong with the car.... no or a too tight servo saver? And I wish the gearsets were only $3. Or were in stock for that matter. Instead of dropping $100-200 more on servos at the track instead of packing up and telling my daughter we can't finish the race day! Also both these servos are listed as being rated for 1/8th scale use so I doubt a blinky 17.5 geared slowed for her pushed them beyond their rating! |
Originally Posted by 2wheeltyson
(Post 15147203)
The 2 modern 1/10th buggys they were in B6 and B64 neither use a servo saver.
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all my 1/10 scale buggies accommodate a servo saver easy..team C losi A&E and a few others.i even have a few on my 1/16 .1/18 scale and 1/12 scales.
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Originally Posted by 2wheeltyson
(Post 15147144)
The first was a hitec 5925 and the second was a spektrum S6020 both were in 1/10 buggy.
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Originally Posted by 2wheeltyson
(Post 15147203)
The 2 modern 1/10th buggys they were in B6 and B64 neither use a servo saver.
And I wish the gearsets were only $3. Or were in stock for that matter. Instead of dropping $100-200 more on servos at the track instead of packing up and telling my daughter we can't finish the race day! Also both these servos are listed as being rated for 1/8th scale use so I doubt a blinky 17.5 geared slowed for her pushed them beyond their rating! This was with 30 secs of searching online. I get your upset and want to vent but work with us here. |
Yeah, the "metal gear servo" in my AE SC10RS RTR broke within two hours of driving back in the day, because it had plastic gear in it. This happened despite the overly soft servo saver. Of course the replacement gears were only available as a full set. Ridiculous. What's the point of protecting the servo motor if you have to replace the plastic gear every few battery packs? How the hell are you supposed to finish races with something like that? With one plastic gear it could just as well be all plastic gears, because the thing is only as strong as its weakest link.
These days I can get a perfectly working, ACTUALLY metal gear servo from JX or Turnigy for nearly the same price as the replacement gears for that crappy RTR servo. Back then I didn't know about the budget stuff yet so I just got an expensive Savox for it and disabled the servo saver. Zero servo problems with any other servos even without servo savers. Had I known better beforehand about how bad the original servo was and so forth as well as about reliable budget electronics (I got oversold on my first car purchase, the B5M, and had an inflated impression of what electronics cost), I would've just bought the SC10.2FT instead. Though I'll say the 3300kv stock motor and SC700 ESC have been quite decent and reliable, especially for indoors where the slower top speed isn't a problem. The radio wasn't bad either, though I sold it with a different car. The servo really was the weak link of the car. |
Originally Posted by Adamska27
(Post 15147182)
$50 just plain can't get you a premium servo
$90 will get you there, Futaba IMO is the best, have an S9551 that's older than any car I have ever put it in lol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ncg8qhtPSVs I've been racing these JX servos in both my 1/8 buggy and truggy for the past 14+ months and overall I have been pleased with their performance, a recent race day proved the servo was quite capable with a 98.7% consistency (my personal best) for someone recently bumping up into Expert from Sportsman: Thornhill Racing Circuit :: Thornhill Championship Series #1 :: Expert Electric Buggy (Heat 1/1) :: LiveRC I do need to point out that my truggy servo did strip after the first 10 months of racing and the replacement gear has held up fine for the past 4 months of racing. I've also started to notice a pinch of slop starting to form on the buggy servo after 14 months... still having great results even with the slop, but planning to replace the gears as a preventative soon. Although JX doesn't sell gear replacement sets (most name brands charge $25+ for a set) I've found that I can get get a donor servo for under $10 and simply swap out the metal gears from the cheap servo making this a win-win for me ;) |
Originally Posted by Darkgenerals
(Post 15147200)
This guy gets gets it.
You want a planned place of failure, why do you think they put lines in concrete. |
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