Gonna be building an Xray XT8E hopefully very soon. Attempting to build a bullet proof truggy platform that will take bashing beatings and then simply change ride height and tires and head to the track. I would like opinions on my electronics selections:

Tekin RX8 Gen 3 ESC (will semi-waterproof by coating case cracks and openings with plasti-dip. Removable for warranty service), will run included fan.

Tekin T8 Gen 2 Truggy Motor - Cant decide on 2000 or 1700Kv (will be running 4S LiPo)

ProTek RC 170SBL Servo (450 oz-in @ 0.09/60 degree on 6V!)

Spektrum DXR5 TX with included receiver

SMC 4S 7400mAh/149Amp/90C LiPos

10 AWG Battery-To-ESC-To-Motor Wiring

RCProPlus Supra X S6 Battery Connectors

RCProPlus Supra X S6 Motor Connectors

ProLine Buck Shot VTR 4.0" Tires for track

ProLine Badlands 3.8" Tires with lower gearing for bash

Just a few aluminum upgrades if I can find them - things like diff cases and carrier hubs

I already have electronics but they are being sold over on RC Sparks because they are old and I want to upgrade: https://www.rcsparks.com/forum/threa...s-setup.43383/

I cant post a for sale thread here even though Ive been a member for two years just because I dont have enough posts, which is ridiculous if you ask me.

Go a 2000kv motor.
Can water proof the esc, but no guarantee it will actually be water proof and not fail...
You want a 7.4v high torque servo, not a 6v.
Spektrums not the best pick for radio, go a futaba or airtronics/sanwa radio. A Futaba 4pv, or sanwa mt4/mt4s.
Batteries are fine.
Connectors, go with ec5.
Hard wire straight onto the motor, dont add another connection point, will only add more resistance and another point of failure.

Personally i dont beleive in using your race rig for bashing. As youre going to need to do double the maintenance, replace parts alot more often and youre more likely to blow a diff bashing, than racing. Especially when running badlands...

Well the nice thing about the ProTek 170SBL Servo is its capable of 7.4V but the REALLY nice thing is its totally unnecessary. at 7.4V the torque hits nearly 550 oz-in with a transition rate of 0.01 less than 6V. My old Tessman edition 2274 Savox servo only put out 350 oz-in and that was at 7.4V. My old Serpent Cobra had astounding performance with that Savox, so just imagine the performance of the ProTek... It will perform better even on 6V, which means I can save voltage and amperage for use in the ESC and motor.

Ive had no issues ever with my Spektrum DX4C, why do you say that Spektrums aren't as good? I was interested in the DX5R for its 5.5 millisecond framerate which is compatible with the included receiver. I was also interested in the Swana/Airtronics MT-S but it comes with less features and less adjust-ability at a similar price point (looking around the $200 range). Not really interested in Futaba, I've seen way to many discussions with issues related to compatibility with Futabas and certain ESCs and telemetry, plus I really don't like the design all that much. The Kyosho Syncro Touch KT-432PT looks pretty nice but Ive never even met someone who uses a Kyosho radio and I think there is a reason for that...

Uh don't see why you would suggest EC5 connectors on a 1/8th scale. If you look it up they are only rated for 60 continuous and 120 burst amps, that's cutting it seriously close for an RX8 and T8 combo and could melt.

I too like the idea of direct soldering from the motor to the ESC and in fact had it like that on my old rig. However, I found it real inconvenient to have to pull the motor to get the ESC out to do cleaning. I don't have a compressor and don't want to have to buy canned air all the time, so my only option is rinsing. I know the T8 can take it but the RX8 cant, so...

And ya the RX8 waterproofing wont be used to like drive into lakes, just more for "splashes" in puddles and stuff. I agree with 2000Kv. The Serpent had the 2250Kv motor and its just way too much speed. Even geared down to a 14T pinion it would still hit about 50 MPH, who needs that kind of speed on a track?

I am starting to think the same way about racing vs. bashing. I may just build a separate bashing machine but that will take a while due to me not being rich lol. I was thinking about the Axial Yeti XL plus aluminum upgrades from Hot-Racing. Planning on a 4S Tekin setup for that as well, probably the same servo as well, just maybe the 1700Kv truggy motor for more torque and less speed?

Ive always run ec5 on my 1/8 gear and never had an issue, i run tekin gear also... even onroad 1/8 they use ec5 plugs and they dont desolder... deans on the other hand will. The plugs youre looking at appear to be 6s 1/8e plugs, bit excessive for 8th offroad, which has less constant draw compared to onroad.

Ive had issues with spektrum, and know alot of others have. Glitchy and cheap feeling. I went to futaba 4pksr after owning a dx4s and have not regretted it at all and have not had a single issue, nor heard or seen the issues youre talking about, and the people i know, majority run futaba, with some sanwa and very few spektrum. Each to their own on look, the futaba isnt the prettiest radio, but it feels good in hand and trumps the spektrum gear.

The more torque the better, less strain on the servo. 7.4v will be optimal, and wont tax the system as much as you think. Ive always run my servos on 7.4v and never had an issue.

Hard solder is best. Like i said, less resistance and less chance of a connector failing. It may be a bit more of a pain to remove, but atleast youre less likely to have a plug unsolder during a race or come undone.

I would stick to 2 rigs tbh. Best way to go about it. Throw a 1700kv into the Axial, doesnt even need to be Tekin, so you can keep the costs down as its only a basher rig.

Ya the plugs I am looking at are overkill, but overkill on connectors, being that they are that restrictive, heat building area, is never a bad thing. If I used the same series for motor connectors, they are so huge and powerful that honestly the resistance increase would either be none because they are rated higher than 10AWG wire itself, or so little that its unnoticeable.

If I can figure out a way to easily clean the system with the motor just soldered straight on, then I will do that. Its really cool that your EC5's havent given you any issues, that shows that they are good connectors and and probably slightly under-rated, but I would still recommend that you swap out in 1/8th scale applications. Same thing if you are running any 12AWG wire, as its rated at 50-60 constant and 100-110 burst as well. XT90 (90constant rated)s wouldnt be a bad choice for ya, they are pretty popular and easy to use.

The best way to keep resistance, heat, and issues to a minimum is to always go overkill on wiring and connectors.

I have read up on Spektrum issues since my last reply. I cant believe how many people have issues with them. How are they still in business when their prices are so close to the opposition? Guess I got lucky... Yea I might have just decided to go all-out and get the M12S-RS. Probably the last TX I will EVER need lol.

I will try both 6.0V and 7.4V on the servo. If 6 isnt perfection then I will turn it up.

What you plan to build sounds almost identical to my 8t-4(e) including the protek servo, except the 2250kv tekin in mine. I do have a 2000kv still in the box, and a matching truggy to put it in, honestly mine has been fine for the occasional bashing but swapping parts to race could get annoying. So backup truck will be the race rig, and building 2 matching Truggy's simplifies the parts box and tools.

And if you shop here you can find everything you need and save enough to afford both rigs.

Not always the case, too big a connector or wire can cause excessive resistance also, creating more heat etc. Ive run ec5 connectors since getting into 8th scale offroad 5+ years ago. No issues at all, good mate of mine runs them in his 1/8 gte onroad, no issues, and if they were to have issues it would be 8th scale onroad. All personal choice though, ec5 plugs are more then good enough, especially if youre good at soldering.

I always manage to clean my buggy no dramas, remove the battery tray, receiver box and motor. Easily done.

Spektrums have issues, its well known, people run them for their own reasons, because theyre cheaper and can get hobbyking receivers easily enough. I had a dx4s and had issues, aswell as a few other guys that i raced with, since switching to sanwa, hitec and futaba, they have been all good, no dramas at all.

Well guys your suggestions are fully noted. Probably gonna go ahead and direct-solder motor-to-ESC and Im probably getting myself the Airtronics M12S-RS!

Best option. You wont remove the system all that often if you leave it as a race rig. You womt regret the sanwa mt12 from what ive read and heard. Tbh if my Futaba 4pksr ever dies ill look at a sanwa mt4s or futaba 4pv as a replacement. Hopefully this discussion has helped in some way haha. All the best with the build/builds.

Of course! Suggestions are always helpful! Looks like Ive god a more solid build plan now:

Two separate vehicles - Axial Yeti XL mega rock racer for bashing and XRay XT8E mega truggy racer for racing.

Tekin RX8 Gen 3 plus T8 Gen 2 2000Kv for the XRay. Will semi-waterproof RX8 using warranty-valid method just in case.

Possibly Tekin electronics for Axial but Mamba Monster X (waterproof) plus 2200Kv Castle motor (just because the 1800Kv motor is smaller and rated for less voltage for some reason???) plus ultra-low gearing is more likely.

Sanwa/Airtronics M12S-RS for my ultimate TX upgrade, RX482's will be used in every vehicle I own from here on out.

ProTek RC 170SBL servos for all 1/8th scale vehicles I own.

SMC 4S 7400mAh/149 Amps/90C Lipos for all 1/8th scale vehicles.

10AWG wiring and RCProPlus Supra X S6 connectors for all 1/8th scale vehicles (Ill try them out and if I dont like them, then XT150s all around it is)

DustyMotors protection shrouds for all vehicles I own (does anyone know the recommended size for the XRay and Yeti XL?)

Chassis protectors for all vehicles I own (suggestions for these 1/8th monsters?)

Shock Socks for all vehicles I own (May not run on dedicated track vehicles, I dont think they will help much in controlled conditions, any suggestions for good products?)

Later on down the road, I plan on owning 3 more RC vehicles. I want a 1/10 Scale truck at some point (so many fun competitions out there for those things), I want a 1/10 Scale On-Road scale drifter build, and if all goes well and I have spare money down the road, a 1/5th scale 4WD truck of some sort.

Thats my entire planned RC collection for the future. Not really interested in more than 5 vehicles unless I become rich one day and have money to throw around. All vehicles apart from the 1/5 scale will use brushless setups. The 1/5th scale is my only planned gas vehicle, probably gonna get the monster OBR 46 swap for it.

Let me know if you guys have any more suggestions for my future builds!

the very old xray XT8 was my first ( and only ) truggy, i bought it second hand and converted it.

Xray didn't change much on the new one !

i filmed my 32 tricks tricktionary with this truggy and broke many parts too !

Very happy with the m12s, although coming from a traxxas basher/tx to the sanwa was like a model T to a Ferrari. Even had a buddy say if he ever switches from his 4PX it would be for the M12S/RS.

Hmmm, are you saying you dont recommend it? Have you enjoyed it? Im kinda right on the edge between the XRay XT8E and the Tekno ET48.3

Sounds like you have a clear plan in mind. But ditch the shroud for thr truggy, you will temp out and cause issues, also if something happens, you wont be able to disconnect the battery quickly enough. Shock socks on racing gear is a big no no, they affect the shock performance in a very negative way... i used them on my sct and made it very inconsistent. On the axial will be fine. Will be lower on the 1800kv because its a higher torque motor, the 2200kv is a higher speed motor. Chassis protectors arent necessary, but there are a few companies that make them. Upgrade rc, mattox etc or you can just buy a clear sheet and cut it to suit.

The other builds are upto you. The drifter, thr 3racing d3/d4 are good plat forms, but mst drifters are top level.

Trucks, axial seems to be the way to go, but theyre money pits as the aftermarket support is immense.

Losi seem to make the best 5th scale trucks. But hpi are also good. There is another brand, but i cant remember it.

The Tekno truck ia a tank and turns on a dime. Honestly, probably the best truggy on the market in this current market. Xray makes awesome gear, but i would honestly go the tekno over it. The new xt8 has been refined by tessman, but its still virtually an 8yr old platform.