just a thought.

so the best motor for carpet buggy racing I have in 17.5 stock is the trinity monster max. now I have bunch of other brand motors which doesn't have the torque or rpm's the max does.
what about buying a rotor from trinity and swapping with one of the slower motors?
will it make a difference or is there a bunch of other things that make the max faster?

closer tolerances better rotor magnets..

you could try.. how about advancing endbell timing to near 40 degrees?

Thanks for info.

I mess with timing but monster max 17.5 so far is best.

but what if I bought a trinity rotor like the one out of the max and put it in a hobbywing can and shimmed ect... would it be even close to max?

Pretty much all rotors are different from other manufacturers. Wouldn't try swapping unless they're identical in length and where they are positioned on the shaft. In other words, Trinity w/Trinity, Hobbywing w/Hobbywing etc.

j .you would have to do some measurements.. 1/8 shafts are the same..some magnets might be longer on stator some shorter..

okay cool I would like to start playing around with this. we have a pro at the track and we have same gearing and we have same monster max motors but he still has noticeable more torque and speed on straights. I know all motors are not same but should be close and were not. there is something I am missing and I know he is a "pro" stuff but there is a reason his car is more powerful than mine when were running same stuff.
yes he is a better than me but anyone can drag race down the straight.
also my buddy has same certified motor and same thing.
he must of done something with the motor 17.5 stock

He probably is carrying his speed through the corners better them you. I bet his car is also lighter them yours. There are a number of possibilities why his car is faster then yours perhaps you could try asking him.

we are both at 1505 grams
the straight is after a jump and weird corner so he isn't carrying speed.
there is something lol
I asked and he and says set up but we are very close. I even had brand new tires last night and I know his were one race old and still got me.
he just gives me that look when I ask whats the deal. I know there is something.

if he is a so called pro then his motor is setup to perform better than what you can buy over the counter..esc/battery/bearings all the same?advance endbell timing like i have said a few posts ago.. try that..toss some ceramic motor bearings in it also..

If you want a torque motor, I'd go with Motiv or Speedzone. Those motors seem to have very strong magnets compared to the monster max and others. The R1 you can get a high torque rotor, but you need to spend another $45.00 for it.

There still could be lots of reasons he is going faster on the straight.

-Batteries and how they are charged
-Whether his car has lighter rotating mass (cut gears etc)
- He may be landing higher on the jump before the straight then accelerating the whole way down the landing
- Slipper settings (or elimnator)
- Punch setting on esc

There are many reasons, perhaps his motor has been tunned, his batteries are better, esc maybe better, lighter rotating weight.

I don't think I've ever seen 2 different OEM's make compatible rotors or stators for that matter. There might be some OEM's who rebrand under different labels, but most of those cheap brands aren't gonna be competitive with the modern short stack low resistance designs.

+1
+1

If you didn't buy a "Certified" motor, then you'll want to invest (or borrow) a motor analyzer. First you want to remove the rotor and check the shim by spinning it on the sensor side bearing, there should be no contact between the sensor and the rotor magnet (this minimizes drag and significantly improves performance), if so then add a 0.2mm spacer... you don't want too big of a gap, otherwise your average timing between each of the 3 timing readings on the analyzer will be too far apart, so long as all 3 timing numbers are within 1°, then you know you've got a properly shimmed motor. Then you want to set your timing based on current draw, I spoke with Trinity and they recommend 5.6A for their motors, doesn't matter what the timing is, every motor will be slightly different, just set it to 5.6A and that's all there is to it!

VERY important to notice that the slightest bump on the endbell will effect your timing, you'll see this when trying to get the proper 5.6A reading, because of this, you will want to often check/reset your timing accordingly and this will assure optimal performance for your Trinity motor.

I have seen other brands of motors at the club in my area will do better at other varying current draws, some as low as only 3A so it's very important to contact each manufacturer of motor you own to find out what they recommend for current draw when setting your timing.

I use this motor analyzer here:
https://www.rcjuice.com/skyrc-brushl...r-checker.html

Good Luck!

Even if it worked, it's not ROAR legal to swap in rotors that weren't built by the OEM for that motor.

i would just add that yes, shimming the rotor as close to the sensor board as possible is the way to get the most power. however, if you shim it too close and you flat land a big jump or your buggy takes a big tumble, if the rotor hits the sensor board, your run is over. i ran my monster max box stock and sure enough my sensor board took a dump. i can only assume the aforementioned scenario played out. unfortunately i was out of warranty (even though i had only run the motor probably 3 or 4 times) and trinity told me to pound salt when i contacted them. i bit the bullet and bought a new sensor board ($30) but i will never buy another trinity motor (or trinity product for that matter).