billdelong

iTrader: (33)

That's unfortunate you feel this way, they offer a 30 day warranty for manufacturer defects, I don't see it listed anywhere on their website anymore but I recall seeing somewhere that sensor boards have always been a common part to break and aren't covered under warranty regardless if within that 30 day period or not. Something about a driver should always have a spare sensor board as it's a consumable item. Hard to say who should be responsible for track side abuse... this has been an issue for years with many brands of ESC's too.... should it be the drivers responsibility to tune their cars and properly land on the back side of the landing ramps?

I digress, when you move on to the next brand and break a their sensor board, will you blame that brand for your driving skill too? Do you blame servo manufacturers for stripped servo gears as well?

FWIW, I will say that both of my MonsterMax motors needed an extra 0.2mm shim, if they weren't shimmed, I wouldn't be surprised if those sensor boards may have been damaged before now, but also not sure if shimming will prevent a sensor board from getting damaged (regardles of brand) if the crash is hard enough while on throttle... I try to hit the brake anytime my car loses control with hopes to minimize the chance of a break, albeit electronics or plastic, etc...

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

i've been at this RC thing for about 7 years. in that time i can't count the number of different motors i've had in countless different RC's. i literally have never had a sensor board go bad before this. by your own admission, the monster max motors have the rotors shimmed too close to the sensor board. shouldn't be much more to say about it. and yes, when i put the new sensor board in, i shimmed the rotor .2 further away from the board and so far so issues.

you must be in a couple pichers of trinity kool aide deep to start attacking my driving skill. whatever caused the sensor board to fail, it was nothing spectacular as i don't even remember the crash that caused it (if that's what indeed caused it). nothing else on the buggy broke.

i don't consider a motor sensor board to be a consumable item. servo gears? sure. i've stripped some out. nothing lasts forever. i do expect a motor to last longer than 3 or 4 race days and i expect them to be built properly so as to prevent them from breaking.

don't cry about it bill. me not buying trinity products won't keep a dollar out of your wallet.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

didn't mean to personally attack you if that's how you feel, my apologies there... I have been fortunate and never had a sensor go out in the past 7 years I've been racing... 4 of those past 7 years with Trinity motors, and I have seen many different brands of motors at the tracks in my area have sensors go out, this is the first time I've seen someone blame the brand for their mistake.

*** EDIT
Now if you went through several sensor boards in a short period of time, then I would say there's definitely a quality issue that needs to be addressed.

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

Explain to me again how it’s my fault/mistake.

1) by your own admission, Trinity shims the rotors too close to the sensor board

2) the buggy is run on a small, indoor, 1/10 track. Small jumps, short straightaway. My guess that a hard landing caused the board to go out was just that. A guess. I didn’t have any big crash that broke parts on my buggy.

3) the motor had 3 or 4 race days TOPS (probably 3, maybe 2).

4) I asked people on Facebook if I was the only one who had a board go out on the MM and several people said theirs had gone out as well (pretty much confirmed by several places being out of stock on the boards when I bought mine including the Trinity website).

Can your beloved Trinity not build a motor that can last more than 3 race days?

the rc guy

phreak don't u just hate how he does that..puts there cheap motor designs on you..

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

I know of a local racer who once busted a sensor board on a brand new motor, very first pack on the track... sometimes it's like winning the lottery (or antonym in this case, ha!) and he was running a different brand other than Trinity... fact is I've seen pretty much every brand of motor at the tracks in my area have a sensor board go out on them.

To be honest, I may have had a few bad boards go out on me as well when I first got into racing... I was too intimidated at the time to do any testing on the motors, I simply threw them away and bought a new one... I've probably ran 4-5 different brands of motors over the years.

Am I currently a Trinity Fanboi? Sure, but honestly there are probably 2-3 other brands that I wouldn't hesitate buying today if Trinity was out of stock for the parts I need for stock racing. Fortunately I'm not sponsored by Trinity so I can buy whoever has the next fastest motor at the time.

If it were me, I'd replace the sensor board, re-shim it and give the motor 1 more chance... if the sensor board breaks a second time, then you know the brand is unlucky for you.

I also checked and they do show some sensor boards in stock here:
https://www.teamtrinity.com/Monster-...ring_p_56.html

I do agree that it's questionable if Trinity might have had a bad batch of improperly shimmed rotors because both of mine needed 0.2mm of spacers added, but I am not an expert, I'm sure some Trinity rep will come on here and have some sort of justification on tolerance for how much contact is allowed with the magnet on the rotor.

My lesson learned from this experience is that I will never install a brand new motor ever again without first checking the shim on each motor, regardless of the brand of motor.

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

So after cutting through all that BS, you agree it wasn’t my fault or my mistake.

If you read my posts, you’d see that I already bought the sensor board and after properly shimming it, I haven’t had a problem. This all happened a few weeks ago so you posting that Trinity now has them in stock has nothing to do with my situation.

What you need to understand is that ok, great you’ve had positive experiences with Trinity. Awesome. Good for you. The fact that I feel like I received less than stellar customer service from them doesn’t negate your experiences. Conversely, your positive experiences don’t give you the right to crap on someone who has a different opinion based on different experiences.

Have you ever purchased a motor directly from Trinity or have they all been from Eric? Maybe that’s the key. You have to buy their motor from a third party who disassembles them and reassembles them properly.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

For arguments sake, I will apologize (again) for poorly wording it so that it sounded like you made a mistake, but the unfortunate thing is that this is considered a consumable part. I'd be very interested in learning which brand (if any) will replace a broken sensor board on their motor and if such brand is a top performing brand in the stock racing community?

I get it, what happened to you really sucks, but it's going to be really difficult to prove this was a manufacturing defect.

You are correct, I typically buy my motors from Eric Anderson because he's a well respected racer who knows which motors are the fastest and that's what he tries to keep in stock. He'll have 3-4 different brands available and he confirms with each new generation that the Trinity motors are performing the fastest (on average) of what he's seeing and I value his opinion. I have seen other really fast brands of motors at my local track, but nobody has been able to motor past me down the straight yet so I'm sticking with Trinity (for now).... but make no mistake, if/when the day comes where I see another brand of motor prove to be faster, I'll more than likely switch without batting an eye. The competition at my club is fierce, regularly to a D main of entries for both 2WD and 4WD stock classes, and I need every pinch possible to try and be competitive with these guys as more pro drivers travel across the state to enter in the mix with us.

I had my first customer service experience with Trinity about 4-6 weeks ago. I noticed my car was getting slower but couldn't figure out what was going on with it, so rather than taking random guesses over the phone, Trinity recommended that I send the motor in to them to test... they said the motor was perfectly fine and nothing needed to be replaced which left me feeling uneasy so to play it safe I bought a 5% team motor from them for $115 (with a copper rotor), plus I bought an additional copper rotor to replace the turquoise rotor I had originally got. They could've easily sold me some random part that I didn't need and I wouldn't have known the wiser, but they were observant enough to notice that I was running the wrong rotor for off-road and that would turn out to be a good thing for me in the end. So now I've got a spare motor just in case I ever need it and now I'm even more competitive.

As it turned out, the cause for my car slowing was a slightly rounded out front hex from using +1mm hex spacers in the hubs so I was effectively running 3WD... doh! I've since replaced the entire 12mm hexes with +1mm solid aluminum option parts to eliminate the chance of stripping a hex in the future.

I want to say that my motor was maybe 4-5 race days old by the time I sent it in for service, and it never occurred to me to shift any blame on Trinity for the problems I was having... to each is own I guess, hope we're still good man!

JPAPA26

iTrader: (25)

What hell did I start lol

eazy70

iTrader: (5)

First off there are many rotors that fit into other stators, I have done it myself just to experiment with my dyno and motolyser, but according to roar you are not allowed to Frankenstein the motors. They all have to be parts from one manufacturer.

Also closest to the sensor board doesn't mean you will make the most power.
The best that I have found is to use a fantom facts 3 that reads how strong the magnetic field is, Mark on the rotor where the strongest readings are (usually is center of the rotor) and use the shims to get that point to the center of the stator.

JPAPA26

iTrader: (25)

ordering a dyno today and was going to start checking things. great info thanks

JPAPA26

iTrader: (25)

SORRY BUDDY I AM NOT SITTING IN MY MOMS BASEMENT WITH A DYNO AND SWAPPING ROTORS. ANYBODY --I AS I SAID CAN ADJUST TIMING AND DRIVE ON A TRACK AND MAKE ADJUST BY TEMP OR PERFORMANCE.
MY QUESTION KNOW IT ALL WAS :

what about buying a rotor from trinity and swapping with one of the slower motors?
will it make a difference or is there a bunch of other things that make the max faster?

READ IT AGIAN
AND THIS IS DOING HOMEWORK IT CALLED ASKING QUESTION WHY ELSE AM I HERE.

the rc guy

lol to funny someone that sits in his gramma's basement post what they did 2 posts above me..

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

There are a bunch of things that goes into making a motor fast.

eazy70

iTrader: (5)

Changing the rotor will make changes in a slower motor, but nothing like a good stator. It will change where the Powerband is, and it may increase tq and hp, but not going to keep up with the better stator.