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Spec is Expensive! Spec Specific ESC Really Much of an Edge?

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Old 01-18-2018 | 08:31 AM
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Default Spec is Expensive! Spec Specific ESC Really Much of an Edge?

Thinking of adding another class; 17.5 Blinky offroad (astro).

Are the spec specific ESC's really giving an advantage? $230 retail on the Tekin Pro BE for example.

Then you want the hottest possible motor (extra $$$), pay for the grams in cutting gears and MIP drivetrain, ceramic bearings for efficiency. The entire chassis is specific, then some lighter HV batteries are in order. A grand later and your racing the "spec" class.

Original question stands though; for the minute differences in efficiency, are the spec ESC's really giving an edge vs say the old RS gen 2?
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Old 01-18-2018 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by WALZ
Thinking of adding another class; 17.5 Blinky offroad (astro).

Are the spec specific ESC's really giving an advantage? $230 retail on the Tekin Pro BE for example.

Then you want the hottest possible motor (extra $$$), pay for the grams in cutting gears and MIP drivetrain, ceramic bearings for efficiency. The entire chassis is specific, then some lighter HV batteries are in order. A grand later and your racing the "spec" class.

Original question stands though; for the minute differences in efficiency, are the spec ESC's really giving an edge vs say the old RS gen 2?
I don't think it's worth the extra money. It may give you slightly more performance but, in reality, spec racing is really about maximizing your corner speed and consistency. One crash or bad lines over the course of a heat will more than offset any gains you may have by having a spec class specific ESC.
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Old 01-18-2018 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by WALZ
Thinking of adding another class; 17.5 Blinky offroad (astro).

Are the spec specific ESC's really giving an advantage? $230 retail on the Tekin Pro BE for example.

Then you want the hottest possible motor (extra $$$), pay for the grams in cutting gears and MIP drivetrain, ceramic bearings for efficiency. The entire chassis is specific, then some lighter HV batteries are in order. A grand later and your racing the "spec" class.

Original question stands though; for the minute differences in efficiency, are the spec ESC's really giving an edge vs say the old RS gen 2?
I will say this about spec racing. When you first start out the electronics don't matter as much as your consistency. Once you can get around the track as fast as your car can go and you start to see these "fast" guys pulling on you a little in the straights, that will be the time to think about the better electronics.

If you want to start on a relatively decent budget you can get the Hobbywing Justock ESC and spend the money saved on a nicer motor that you can keep for a long time. The bearings (you can just degrease stock bearings to lessen rolling resistance) and cut gears will just give you tiny edges here and there but these days the motor for spec racing really matters once you get really competitive. The ESC is not so much as the motors don't require a whole lot of amps to move. The better ones may have somewhat smoother throttle response or lower resistance but I don't feel all of that will benefit you as much as getting a good motor to start.
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Old 01-18-2018 | 09:36 PM
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Thanks for the insightful reply. I’ve been racing for 25 years and looking to add yet another class to my race day. Just having a hard time justifying paying so much extra to go slow. I also doubt the minute differences in efficiency of the esc’s.

Interesting idea on the bearings, hadn’t heard of that.
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Old 01-18-2018 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by WALZ
Thanks for the insightful reply. I’ve been racing for 25 years and looking to add yet another class to my race day. Just having a hard time justifying paying so much extra to go slow. I also doubt the minute differences in efficiency of the esc’s.

Interesting idea on the bearings, hadn’t heard of that.
It used to be kinda cheap when I started spec racing. But these days motors and ESCs have raised in price to get you the lowest resistance or smoothest throttle. Some guys are paying nearly $400 for Orion's HMX stock ESC just as an example.

But the bearings are a cheap method if you have time to kill just open the seals degrease the bearings and then use some bearing oil on them. Should be buttery smooth. Just not as light as ceramic.
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Old 01-19-2018 | 12:11 AM
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ok, you want the real answer to your question? listen up because here it comes...

the answer is: it depends on some factors. here are some of the factors:

-Do you have more time or money?

-If you have more time, then yes, the standard internet forum answer of "if you can't run the clean linez bro, it doesn't matter what's under the hood" and "wheels down is the fastestest way to go". so yes, save your money, spend it on practice and tires and you'll be better off in the long run.

-if you have more money than time, yes, all of the little money sapping upgrades all help. some help more than others. i'm not familiar with the esc you're talking about, but IMO an esc is one of the last areas where i'd look to spend money (motor, charger/discharger, batteries, bearings, light weight items are all better ways to spend your money).

-if you have more money than time and you just can't stand the idea of getting motored on the straight or others making the triple and you can't, again, see the item above.

again, IMO, if you're spending more money than the hobbywing XR10 stock, you're wasting your money. the maclan stock esc is about the same price i think. that is the sweet spot between features and price. i don't know anything about the specific esc you're referencing, but if it's in that price range, go for it. if it's more than those, forget it.

can you win without all of those expensive stock specific parts? absolutely, but you better be a damn good driver. all of those items give you incremental advantages. YMMV.
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Old 01-19-2018 | 01:22 AM
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Glad you guys are on the topic.

-I want a new ESC. I'm think'n about get'n the Hobbywing 100-Amp Stock Spec v3.1 ESC or the Hobbywing 120-Amp v3.1 ESC. (I'll be run'n a 10.5 Motor)
-There's not much of a difference between the two.......(?)

What is the better choice?

Thank You
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Old 01-19-2018 | 03:39 AM
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I listened up but still don’t see the answer.

Yes, I have more money than time. Yes, I have the good chargers, batteries and would buy a higher end spec motor. Yes, like any respectable racer I would be upset if I got motored on the straights.

The question is if thes esc’s are hype or if there is actually more power delivery noticeable by the human senses. The spec esc is very specific and it’s useless when the class is gone. I’ll keep reusing other esc’s.

hobbywing justock 45amp resistance .0006ohm $50

Tekin Pro black ed. resistance: 000096ohm. $230

Orion hmx 10 resistance .000033 $375 “1/3 resistance of Tekin”

Makes me wonder if there is more resistance in the solder joints.

Last edited by WALZ; 01-19-2018 at 03:50 AM.
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Old 01-19-2018 | 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by GuyIsDamGood
Glad you guys are on the topic.

-I want a new ESC. I'm think'n about get'n the Hobbywing 100-Amp Stock Spec v3.1 ESC or the Hobbywing 120-Amp v3.1 ESC. (I'll be run'n a 10.5 Motor)
-There's not much of a difference between the two.......(?)

What is the better choice?

Thank You
That is a completely different topic. Please use a new thread. The vehicle type and batteries are also a factor. I would use the Amain customer service chat box when you order or the sales associate at your LHS.

Last edited by WALZ; 01-19-2018 at 03:59 AM.
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Old 01-19-2018 | 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by WALZ
hobbywing justock 45amp resistance .0006ohm $50

Tekin Pro black ed. resistance: 000096ohm. $230

Orion hmx 10 resistance .000033 $375 “1/3 resistance of Tekin”

Makes me wonder if there is more resistance in the solder joints.
Your intuition is pretty much correct. Once the ESC resistance is below a certain point, then it really doesn't measurably affect the motor power.

Some manufacturers spec the resistance per phase, but two phases are always in series, so the actual resistance is double the value specified. Once the resistance is below 0.1% that of the motor+battery resistance, then power loss will be inconsequential. A 25.5T motor doesn't need nearly the same ESC as a 17.5T!

I suggest you choose an ESC with the features and "feel" you desire, from a manufacturer that you trust. If you already own that ESC, then you are all set!

Oh, and I almost forgot: if your track runs under ROAR rules, make sure your ESC is on the ROAR-approved list, and is using the appropriate software version (if applicable).
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Old 01-19-2018 | 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by howardcano
Your intuition is pretty much correct. Once the ESC resistance is below a certain point, then it really doesn't measurably affect the motor power.

Some manufacturers spec the resistance per phase, but two phases are always in series, so the actual resistance is double the value specified. Once the resistance is below 0.1% that of the motor+battery resistance, then power loss will be inconsequential. A 25.5T motor doesn't need nearly the same ESC as a 17.5T!

I suggest you choose an ESC with the features and "feel" you desire, from a manufacturer that you trust. If you already own that ESC, then you are all set!

Oh, and I almost forgot: if your track runs under ROAR rules, make sure your ESC is on the ROAR-approved list, and is using the appropriate software version (if applicable).
Asked and answered! Thank you for taking the time. Will be interesting to see if anyone disagrees but that answer works great for me
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Old 01-19-2018 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by WALZ
I listened up but still don’t see the answer.

Yes, I have more money than time. Yes, I have the good chargers, batteries and would buy a higher end spec motor. Yes, like any respectable racer I would be upset if I got motored on the straights.

The question is if thes esc’s are hype or if there is actually more power delivery noticeable by the human senses. The spec esc is very specific and it’s useless when the class is gone. I’ll keep reusing other esc’s.

hobbywing justock 45amp resistance .0006ohm $50

Tekin Pro black ed. resistance: 000096ohm. $230

Orion hmx 10 resistance .000033 $375 “1/3 resistance of Tekin”

Makes me wonder if there is more resistance in the solder joints.
seems the answer is indeed in there...

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
ok, you want the real answer to your question? listen up because here it comes...

the answer is: it depends on some factors. here are some of the factors:

-Do you have more time or money?

-If you have more time, then yes, the standard internet forum answer of "if you can't run the clean linez bro, it doesn't matter what's under the hood" and "wheels down is the fastestest way to go". so yes, save your money, spend it on practice and tires and you'll be better off in the long run.

-if you have more money than time, yes, all of the little money sapping upgrades all help. some help more than others. i'm not familiar with the esc you're talking about, but IMO an esc is one of the last areas where i'd look to spend money (motor, charger/discharger, batteries, bearings, light weight items are all better ways to spend your money).

-if you have more money than time and you just can't stand the idea of getting motored on the straight or others making the triple and you can't, again, see the item above.

again, IMO, if you're spending more money than the hobbywing XR10 stock, you're wasting your money. the maclan stock esc is about the same price i think. that is the sweet spot between features and price. i don't know anything about the specific esc you're referencing, but if it's in that price range, go for it. if it's more than those, forget it.

can you win without all of those expensive stock specific parts? absolutely, but you better be a damn good driver. all of those items give you incremental advantages. YMMV.
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Old 01-19-2018 | 05:19 PM
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Let's spend lots of money to go slow but it must be faster than the other guy.

what?
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Old 01-20-2018 | 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Set
Let's spend lots of money to go slow but it must be faster than the other guy.

what?
Mod is too fast for some people, but that doesn't mean they want to lose when choosing a slower class.
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