Thank you but, there is no reason to YELL at me. I did read your first post.
As well as fyrstormer and the book itself. This is one thing I am sticking with. For the truck, batteries and RXs sake. And at the setting I have it at the truck will be deep in battery dump by then anyway. I just want some cut-off on the off chance someone other then me is behind the wheel when it dumps.

Moving on,

I do think I found it's happy spot now. This after having to putting it back to full default and resetting it to the transmitter more then once. I took the laptop outback and baby steps with what I changed till I was having fun with it rather then having or wanting to play with settings.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e6da0f7401.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...555a2da360.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e93035c8d2.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...50461bd978.jpg

Your hopeless. If your not going to listen to the advice given, don't bother asking.

You said yourself that you're new to this, so listen to people who aren't new to it.

You're going to drive yourself crazy troubleshooting this thing as long as you have voltage cutoff enabled. That may not be the entire problem, but it's part of the problem. NiMH and NiCad batteries don't need voltage cutoff -- in fact, they don't work properly if they are never drained completely. That's why good chargers have a NiMH discharge/recharge cycling mode, to rehab NiMH batteries that have sat around for too long.

The receiver and servo are not going to be damaged by undervolting if the battery gets too low. Why do you think they would be?

And your rude!!

I'm new to Blrushless. Only because I had to take a 10 year brake to rise some kids shortly after they hit the market. But that is besides the point.

I will disable the voltage cut off before I run it next.

Thank you everyone for the help.

We have noticed a fair number of voltage issues with NIMH packs. The packs tend to have fairly massive dips in voltage when accelerating. These dips are so extreme that it can cause the radio or ESC to reset from lack of voltage.

Even a very inexpensive LiPo pack will run better with brushless motors than the most expensive NiMH packs.

Thank You Robert. I will disable the cut-off. The house I live in right now will not let me have LiPo batteries due to the risk of fire.

If you have a cellphone or a laptop, you already have LiPo batteries. (remember the whole Samsung Galaxy 7 exploding-battery problem?) There is no escaping LiPo batteries nowadays. They're not as dangerous as people think, they just make a big show on the rare occasion that they do fail.

Anyway, the thing about brushless motors is they don't have the inherent electrical resistance that brushed motors have, because there are no sliding electrical contacts (i.e. no brushes or commutator). So during hard acceleration the battery is basically free to shove as much amperage through the motor as it can muster, and the chemical reactions inside NiMH batteries can't keep up. It's the electrical equivalent of opening the floodgates -- once the pent-up electrical charge inside the batteries gets dumped through the motor, the pressure (i.e. the voltage) drops very rapidly. That can easily fool the low-voltage cutoff into thinking the battery is drained, no matter how low you set it, because the low-voltage cutoff is programmed with the assumption that it will only be used with much more energetic LiPo batteries that *can* shove dozens of amps through the motor for a few seconds without the voltage sagging.

Doesn't the MMP have data log capabilities? If so maybe set it up to monitor battery voltage, throttle input and rpm and then download the data. You might be surprised....

The newer one might. I got this one used 8 years ago or so. It can run a motor check to use Torque Limit but that is the only thing I see on the set-up screens.