XERUN 3660 G2 4300KV low rpm issues in sensored mode only
#1
XERUN 3660 G2 4300KV low rpm issues in sensored mode only
Hello,
I purchased a combo back in September (Hobbywing XERUN XR8 SCT ESC + XERUN 3660 G2 4300kv). Also posted this in the hobbywing thread but thought maybe my issue isn't manufacture specific.
Just this past weekend during my local club race I regrettably plugged in my battery reverse polarity on my Tekno SCT410.3. After a few seconds one of the capacitors popped on the esc. Needless to say I felt disgusted with myself all day for my foolish mistake.
I had a new backup XERUN XR8 SCT ESC at home. The next day I soldered all of my connections for the new esc. After going through the calibration process (successfully) I found that the motor would not turn at low rpms. It would kind of vibrate until you got past maybe 10-15% throttle and then it spins as expected.
During troubleshooting I learned this issue does not happen in sensorless mode so I try 2 different (new) sensor cables. The issue persisted. Perhaps the reverse polarity damaged the motor sensor as well? Is it possible to order just the end bell with the sensor in order to repair this? Are there any other measures that can be taken to attempt to repair it? Any troubleshooting advice will be much appreciated.
Thank you in advance
I purchased a combo back in September (Hobbywing XERUN XR8 SCT ESC + XERUN 3660 G2 4300kv). Also posted this in the hobbywing thread but thought maybe my issue isn't manufacture specific.
Just this past weekend during my local club race I regrettably plugged in my battery reverse polarity on my Tekno SCT410.3. After a few seconds one of the capacitors popped on the esc. Needless to say I felt disgusted with myself all day for my foolish mistake.
I had a new backup XERUN XR8 SCT ESC at home. The next day I soldered all of my connections for the new esc. After going through the calibration process (successfully) I found that the motor would not turn at low rpms. It would kind of vibrate until you got past maybe 10-15% throttle and then it spins as expected.
During troubleshooting I learned this issue does not happen in sensorless mode so I try 2 different (new) sensor cables. The issue persisted. Perhaps the reverse polarity damaged the motor sensor as well? Is it possible to order just the end bell with the sensor in order to repair this? Are there any other measures that can be taken to attempt to repair it? Any troubleshooting advice will be much appreciated.
Thank you in advance
#2
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
I'd be willing to bet that you blew out your sensor card within the ESC, consider yourself lucky that the ESC works at all after reversing the polarity, I think this is the first case I've ever heard of where the ESC didn't completely get destroyed.
If it were me, I'd chalk this up to a lesson learned and replace the ESC... pretty much happens to everyone at least once who uses in-line bullets.
What I have started to do is shorten the length of the leads from the ESC to the battery so that the closest wire can't physically reach the opposite side of the pack and you'll never accidentally reverse the polarity again
If it were me, I'd chalk this up to a lesson learned and replace the ESC... pretty much happens to everyone at least once who uses in-line bullets.
What I have started to do is shorten the length of the leads from the ESC to the battery so that the closest wire can't physically reach the opposite side of the pack and you'll never accidentally reverse the polarity again
#3
Tech Fanatic
Well he did say he changed to the backup ESC.... I'm actually surprised I haven't reversed polarity on the car so far, gotten close a few times. Done it several times on the charger, but at least those have reverse polarity protection. Adjusting cable length wouldn't work for me since I use both saddle and stick packs, not to mention I sometimes end up switching electronics between cars, each having their own required cable lengths.
As for the tOP, do you have a different motor you could try, just to be sure? I mean theoretically there could be something wrong with the backup ESC as well. At the 10-15% mark does it start slowly like you would expect if you had given less throttle so far, or jump straight to a higher acceleration?
Anyway, to my understanding the HW G2 motors are fully rebuildable, so it should be possibly to switch the affected parts. Outside of contacting HW support directly I don't know where to start with getting the replacement part, though.
As for the tOP, do you have a different motor you could try, just to be sure? I mean theoretically there could be something wrong with the backup ESC as well. At the 10-15% mark does it start slowly like you would expect if you had given less throttle so far, or jump straight to a higher acceleration?
Anyway, to my understanding the HW G2 motors are fully rebuildable, so it should be possibly to switch the affected parts. Outside of contacting HW support directly I don't know where to start with getting the replacement part, though.
#4
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
I misread it, I was thinking the ESC was still usable... before replacing the hall sensors, I would consider investing in a sensor tester like this:
You can also remove the sensor board from the motor and visually inspect for any burnt out micro chips on the board.
+ YouTube Video | |
You can also remove the sensor board from the motor and visually inspect for any burnt out micro chips on the board.
#5
I'd be willing to bet that you blew out your sensor card within the ESC, consider yourself lucky that the ESC works at all after reversing the polarity, I think this is the first case I've ever heard of where the ESC didn't completely get destroyed.
If it were me, I'd chalk this up to a lesson learned and replace the ESC... pretty much happens to everyone at least once who uses in-line bullets.
What I have started to do is shorten the length of the leads from the ESC to the battery so that the closest wire can't physically reach the opposite side of the pack and you'll never accidentally reverse the polarity again
If it were me, I'd chalk this up to a lesson learned and replace the ESC... pretty much happens to everyone at least once who uses in-line bullets.
What I have started to do is shorten the length of the leads from the ESC to the battery so that the closest wire can't physically reach the opposite side of the pack and you'll never accidentally reverse the polarity again
#7
Well he did say he changed to the backup ESC.... I'm actually surprised I haven't reversed polarity on the car so far, gotten close a few times. Done it several times on the charger, but at least those have reverse polarity protection. Adjusting cable length wouldn't work for me since I use both saddle and stick packs, not to mention I sometimes end up switching electronics between cars, each having their own required cable lengths.
As for the tOP, do you have a different motor you could try, just to be sure? I mean theoretically there could be something wrong with the backup ESC as well. At the 10-15% mark does it start slowly like you would expect if you had given less throttle so far, or jump straight to a higher acceleration?
Anyway, to my understanding the HW G2 motors are fully rebuildable, so it should be possibly to switch the affected parts. Outside of contacting HW support directly I don't know where to start with getting the replacement part, though.
As for the tOP, do you have a different motor you could try, just to be sure? I mean theoretically there could be something wrong with the backup ESC as well. At the 10-15% mark does it start slowly like you would expect if you had given less throttle so far, or jump straight to a higher acceleration?
Anyway, to my understanding the HW G2 motors are fully rebuildable, so it should be possibly to switch the affected parts. Outside of contacting HW support directly I don't know where to start with getting the replacement part, though.
Thank you guys for your help! Pretty expensive mistake. Gonna try really, really hard to never do it again