Hobby Stop West Raceway New Tamiya F1 class!!
03-27-2013, 01:50 PM
#316
03-27-2013, 01:51 PM
#317
Tried that link...seems to work. Please 'like' the page! Thanks!
10-15-2013, 04:18 PM
#320
Tech Regular
Planning to stop out this Sunday and Charge some batteries and see what happens.
Sunday looks to be cool and wet - so it is time to move indoors.
Sunday looks to be cool and wet - so it is time to move indoors.
10-16-2013, 05:01 AM
#321
I'll come up with a schedule and get it posted.
Lon had a good idea to get a championship trophy and put a running tally of champions on it so that person can keep it for the year and we can pass it around to the victor.
Also I think we should run UF1 rules and keep the Pardus Tire as per the Midwest-UF1 rules. What is everyone's opinion on that? Seems to be the standard at all tracks?
Lon had a good idea to get a championship trophy and put a running tally of champions on it so that person can keep it for the year and we can pass it around to the victor.
Also I think we should run UF1 rules and keep the Pardus Tire as per the Midwest-UF1 rules. What is everyone's opinion on that? Seems to be the standard at all tracks?
10-16-2013, 06:32 AM
#322
Tech Regular
Second on the UF1 rules for this 2013 thru 2014 indoor season using the Pardus tyres.
nrtv - can you copy and post the rules on this thread?
nrtv - can you copy and post the rules on this thread?
10-16-2013, 07:22 AM
#323
http://uf1rc.com/rules-and-regulations/
Formula 1 – 2013/2014 Indoor Season
Motor: ROAR-Legal 21.5 stock motor with ROAR approved rotors only (details below).
ESC: ROAR-Legal ESC set on non-boost.
Tires: Pardus Tires
Body: F1 scale with molded front & rear wing (details below)
Drive: 2 Wheel Rear drive cars only Settings
Width: 190mm max
Wheelbase: 270mm
Battery: 2S LiPo or 6-Cell NiMh
Battery Max Voltage: 8.44v
Minimum Weight: 1050g
Minimum Ride Height: 3mm
Suspension: All supsensions allowed, including IFS suspensions (details below)
Additional
• All front suspension mount points must be located entirely within the body shell (no pan-car front suspension systems). Adjustable link front ends are OK as long as the inner mount point is located within the body. Custom ‘flared’ bodies are not legal.
• IFS suspension systems are now allowed in the UF1 Series as long as the car meets the rest of the UF1 rules.
• No electronic driving aids (gyros, wheel speed sensors, etc.). Transmitter functions are allowed.
• Due to safety reasons, all LIPO batteries cannot exceed a max peak voltage of 8.44v. Spot checks will be done if there is any indication that someone is blasting their batteries.
Formula 1 – 2013/2014 Indoor Season
Motor: ROAR-Legal 21.5 stock motor with ROAR approved rotors only (details below).
ESC: ROAR-Legal ESC set on non-boost.
Tires: Pardus Tires
Body: F1 scale with molded front & rear wing (details below)
Drive: 2 Wheel Rear drive cars only Settings
Width: 190mm max
Wheelbase: 270mm
Battery: 2S LiPo or 6-Cell NiMh
Battery Max Voltage: 8.44v
Minimum Weight: 1050g
Minimum Ride Height: 3mm
Suspension: All supsensions allowed, including IFS suspensions (details below)
Additional
• All front suspension mount points must be located entirely within the body shell (no pan-car front suspension systems). Adjustable link front ends are OK as long as the inner mount point is located within the body. Custom ‘flared’ bodies are not legal.
• IFS suspension systems are now allowed in the UF1 Series as long as the car meets the rest of the UF1 rules.
• No electronic driving aids (gyros, wheel speed sensors, etc.). Transmitter functions are allowed.
• Due to safety reasons, all LIPO batteries cannot exceed a max peak voltage of 8.44v. Spot checks will be done if there is any indication that someone is blasting their batteries.
10-18-2013, 01:34 PM
#324
I have attempting to race the last two weeks (no other F1s), but raced only VTA. Clyde and Dave Berry showed up, but only for some practice runs.
I would like to suggest opening the tires. The pardus tires sound great, as the cost is low. However, they are far from spec. There are at least two different compounds. If you have the right ones, the car will turn. Get the wrong front tire, and it will not. The wheels are rubish, easily crack, and wobble even when new. I have seen several cars that are nearly undriveable on Pardus, come to life with the Tamiya pits. I know my cars work better with the Pits - I have them from the Tamiya race. Also, where do I purchase Pardus tires? - Brad doesn't show up often at the track. Just a little frustating.
Hi Ted - Hope to see you there on sunday!
Erik
BTW - what was the outcome from last season? I remember some of the race dates changed mid season.
I would like to suggest opening the tires. The pardus tires sound great, as the cost is low. However, they are far from spec. There are at least two different compounds. If you have the right ones, the car will turn. Get the wrong front tire, and it will not. The wheels are rubish, easily crack, and wobble even when new. I have seen several cars that are nearly undriveable on Pardus, come to life with the Tamiya pits. I know my cars work better with the Pits - I have them from the Tamiya race. Also, where do I purchase Pardus tires? - Brad doesn't show up often at the track. Just a little frustating.
Hi Ted - Hope to see you there on sunday!
Erik
BTW - what was the outcome from last season? I remember some of the race dates changed mid season.
10-20-2013, 05:28 PM
#325
I have attempting to race the last two weeks (no other F1s), but raced only VTA. Clyde and Dave Berry showed up, but only for some practice runs.
I would like to suggest opening the tires. The pardus tires sound great, as the cost is low. However, they are far from spec. There are at least two different compounds. If you have the right ones, the car will turn. Get the wrong front tire, and it will not. The wheels are rubish, easily crack, and wobble even when new. I have seen several cars that are nearly undriveable on Pardus, come to life with the Tamiya pits. I know my cars work better with the Pits - I have them from the Tamiya race. Also, where do I purchase Pardus tires? - Brad doesn't show up often at the track. Just a little frustating.
Hi Ted - Hope to see you there on sunday!
Erik
BTW - what was the outcome from last season? I remember some of the race dates changed mid season.
I would like to suggest opening the tires. The pardus tires sound great, as the cost is low. However, they are far from spec. There are at least two different compounds. If you have the right ones, the car will turn. Get the wrong front tire, and it will not. The wheels are rubish, easily crack, and wobble even when new. I have seen several cars that are nearly undriveable on Pardus, come to life with the Tamiya pits. I know my cars work better with the Pits - I have them from the Tamiya race. Also, where do I purchase Pardus tires? - Brad doesn't show up often at the track. Just a little frustating.
Hi Ted - Hope to see you there on sunday!
Erik
BTW - what was the outcome from last season? I remember some of the race dates changed mid season.
not to mention if someone has a old good set from last year that isnt even made any more but no one else can get.
Shame really Pardus spec tires should be marked as such for 2013/2014 otherwise .... its not fair for every one
10-21-2013, 06:50 AM
#326
Yesterday Ted and I had some good battles in F1. I beleive over 3 qual and a mian, not a single masrhall was needed. Hoping more will join in the F1 fun.
My vintage Pardus tires were not the ones to have. MY car had trouble rotating in the corner and lacked front grip. Ted was easily 0.2sec faster per lap. I threw on a set of very used Tamiya pits and it was closer (they chirped excessively and needed replace). Still fun none the less.
Anyway, hopefully others with race soon...
Erik
My vintage Pardus tires were not the ones to have. MY car had trouble rotating in the corner and lacked front grip. Ted was easily 0.2sec faster per lap. I threw on a set of very used Tamiya pits and it was closer (they chirped excessively and needed replace). Still fun none the less.
Anyway, hopefully others with race soon...
Erik
10-21-2013, 06:37 PM
#327
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Yesterday Ted and I had some good battles in F1. I beleive over 3 qual and a mian, not a single masrhall was needed. Hoping more will join in the F1 fun.
My vintage Pardus tires were not the ones to have. MY car had trouble rotating in the corner and lacked front grip. Ted was easily 0.2sec faster per lap. I threw on a set of very used Tamiya pits and it was closer (they chirped excessively and needed replace). Still fun none the less.
Anyway, hopefully others with race soon...
Erik
My vintage Pardus tires were not the ones to have. MY car had trouble rotating in the corner and lacked front grip. Ted was easily 0.2sec faster per lap. I threw on a set of very used Tamiya pits and it was closer (they chirped excessively and needed replace). Still fun none the less.
Anyway, hopefully others with race soon...
Erik
The price is a nice draw for everyone in F1 but the rims were sketchy as clearly noted by Erik.
Ted being 0.2sec faster was most likely on old Pardus tires, just guessing.
Last edited by SSRACING; 10-21-2013 at 06:58 PM.
10-21-2013, 07:33 PM
#328
I had 3 different sets last year.
2 sets at the start of the year both a little taller. both different
1 set of gray wheel's with different rubber yet and shorter.
Lon had 2 sets maybe 3.
We both thought the second set of black wheels had by far the most traction.
full gray wheels was ok but .2 slower
gen 2 black fronts and gray rear, was the fastest.
Gen 1 black front works ok but the slowest and took a different setup.
the spread was .3 now it might not seem like much but if your going 8.7s and I am going 8.4s and 8.4s being fastest lap for anyone,
8.4 is 43 laps like 6:04
8.7 is 42 laps like 6:07
2 sets at the start of the year both a little taller. both different
1 set of gray wheel's with different rubber yet and shorter.
Lon had 2 sets maybe 3.
We both thought the second set of black wheels had by far the most traction.
full gray wheels was ok but .2 slower
gen 2 black fronts and gray rear, was the fastest.
Gen 1 black front works ok but the slowest and took a different setup.
the spread was .3 now it might not seem like much but if your going 8.7s and I am going 8.4s and 8.4s being fastest lap for anyone,
8.4 is 43 laps like 6:04
8.7 is 42 laps like 6:07
10-22-2013, 05:21 AM
#329
For rules I vote for following the UF1 chassis spec's for all races and when we run a Points Race we run UF1-Midwest (Pardus Tire Spec). It will just be easier for outside racers to come in and have a shot because its becoming the standard tire in the area. The Gate runs Pardus and I can see a lot more cross track competition this year now that they are constantly running an F1 class there as well.
Yes the Pardus Tires last year went through some revisions and we kind of were the test guinea pigs (as well as IIC 2012) being they were a brand new brand but I think they are pretty consistent now in terms of compounds and sizes; it is the Spec Tire for big races like IIC 2 years in a row.
If you want to run TCS or Pits or Rides on non-point days (even the Turnigy motor) I think that's perfectly fine as long as we stay to UF1 chassis', I'd like the Toledo Points Series to stay UF1-Midwest (ROAR motor's too) this year though for simplicity.
Yes the Pardus Tires last year went through some revisions and we kind of were the test guinea pigs (as well as IIC 2012) being they were a brand new brand but I think they are pretty consistent now in terms of compounds and sizes; it is the Spec Tire for big races like IIC 2 years in a row.
If you want to run TCS or Pits or Rides on non-point days (even the Turnigy motor) I think that's perfectly fine as long as we stay to UF1 chassis', I'd like the Toledo Points Series to stay UF1-Midwest (ROAR motor's too) this year though for simplicity.
10-22-2013, 05:57 AM
#330
Sounds fine. Just need the man with the tires to show up.
Any chance to swap wheels - I would perfer the Tamiya grey or matt chrome wheels? I really didn't like the pardus wheels breaking mid race. I looked at a set Ted had and they were also cracked on the inner bearing surface.
Any chance to swap wheels - I would perfer the Tamiya grey or matt chrome wheels? I really didn't like the pardus wheels breaking mid race. I looked at a set Ted had and they were also cracked on the inner bearing surface.