Ghost farts?
#16
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
Pactra always had issues with me. With a .35mm tip and even reduced with regular reducer it just sprays cobwebs everywhere. I found using HOK U00 which is their striping reducer (very hot) worked best. The stuff in the pactra that makes it flex and stick good on plastics doesn't seem to work well with typical reducers.
#17
Great! Thanks for the tips. So far all of my drop shadow attempts have been with WB paints. I haven't been able to get them thin/transparent enough which is why I made the switch to Lacquer. I ordered some RCS smoke so that should do the trick!
#18
if your using pactra are you thinning it???
well mike asked before me, guess i should have read more........LOL
well mike asked before me, guess i should have read more........LOL
#19
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
I've never used the smoke before. I'm pretty sure that's what Jon had intended it for so I imagine you can't go wrong with it. Jon's paints are the shizzle!! I use SpazStix Shadow black/window tint and over reduce that. I shoot that at about 5-10 psi after misting the RCS pre prep. Who knows when I'll run out of the Spaz.....lol. I reduce it about 60/40 so I use very little of it.
Oh also keep the tip clean. I usually wipe off the needle tip and nozzle after each shadow line. It gives you a finer line and the lower the pressure the closer you can get to your work. Something else that will help is to take the fluted tip off when you're doing the shadows. You can see where the tip is in relation to the work.
Oh also keep the tip clean. I usually wipe off the needle tip and nozzle after each shadow line. It gives you a finer line and the lower the pressure the closer you can get to your work. Something else that will help is to take the fluted tip off when you're doing the shadows. You can see where the tip is in relation to the work.
#21
Sorry to hijack
Hi guys, what type of WB paint is good to use for outline shading? Tried Pear and Fluo, seems not ideal
Hi guys, what type of WB paint is good to use for outline shading? Tried Pear and Fluo, seems not ideal
#22
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Keep this in mind with drop shadows. Instead of using blacks or smoke reduced heavily. Use a darker shade of the background colour. Try it you will surprised how much more lively your paint work will look. In real life nothing has a black or dark shadow, it's always a darker grade of the color in the background. Using a darker version of the colour you want to shade givess a feel of transparency, try it
#23
Keep this in mind with drop shadows. Instead of using blacks or smoke reduced heavily. Use a darker shade of the background colour. Try it you will surprised how much more lively your paint work will look. In real life nothing has a black or dark shadow, it's always a darker grade of the color in the background. Using a darker version of the colour you want to shade givess a feel of transparency, try it
For WB paints I really like the Wicked Smoke Black reduce about 50/50, I spay with the pressure as low as I can get a steady stream. I usually spray a something like the Wicked Trasparent base or Createx Gloss top coat in light layers to make the surface more porous. The paint sticks rather than blowing around. It also prevents ghost farts.
#24
Thanks for sharing your experience, im learning a lot from you guys.
Sorry for not explain it clearly, what i mean is which is the appropriate type of coloured paint to use for shading...pics paints a thousand words
What went wrong? bad paint? bad airbrush tip? paint dried before hit the surface?....tried thin it with lower pressure, also nozzel closer (1 ~ 1 1/2'' apart) to work piece. Thanks for your input
Sorry for not explain it clearly, what i mean is which is the appropriate type of coloured paint to use for shading...pics paints a thousand words
What went wrong? bad paint? bad airbrush tip? paint dried before hit the surface?....tried thin it with lower pressure, also nozzel closer (1 ~ 1 1/2'' apart) to work piece. Thanks for your input
#25
I gotta say, those don't look too bad but a bit grainy. I am sure someone with a better grasp of water based paints will chime in. I get those patterns all the time which it why I went with lacquer paints. The atomiZation is so much finer. Try a little more pressure.
I got my shipment today! Can't wait to start painting! Should I be concerned with the temps? The paint sat in my mailbox all afternoon and it was cold. There were some floaty bits in the prep that seem to have disappeared since I got home.
I got my shipment today! Can't wait to start painting! Should I be concerned with the temps? The paint sat in my mailbox all afternoon and it was cold. There were some floaty bits in the prep that seem to have disappeared since I got home.
#26
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
It looks like lack of atomisation. But looking at it who cares. They are awesome lines and shading, pan back a bit and you won't see it.
When you say cold, how cold ? Keep the paints up to room temp and if its a cold shed or room it's advisable to slowly warm the paints, it makes them workable. I don't have to worry about warming paints, today was 46 deg C and its 10.00pm at night and the temp just went below 35 deg C, I need to put my paint in the fridge, hahahahah. Dam it's hot
When you say cold, how cold ? Keep the paints up to room temp and if its a cold shed or room it's advisable to slowly warm the paints, it makes them workable. I don't have to worry about warming paints, today was 46 deg C and its 10.00pm at night and the temp just went below 35 deg C, I need to put my paint in the fridge, hahahahah. Dam it's hot
#27
Thanks for sharing your experience, im learning a lot from you guys.
Sorry for not explain it clearly, what i mean is which is the appropriate type of coloured paint to use for shading...pics paints a thousand words
What went wrong? bad paint? bad airbrush tip? paint dried before hit the surface?....tried thin it with lower pressure, also nozzel closer (1 ~ 1 1/2'' apart) to work piece. Thanks for your input
Sorry for not explain it clearly, what i mean is which is the appropriate type of coloured paint to use for shading...pics paints a thousand words
What went wrong? bad paint? bad airbrush tip? paint dried before hit the surface?....tried thin it with lower pressure, also nozzel closer (1 ~ 1 1/2'' apart) to work piece. Thanks for your input
It really doesnt look bad. How many coats did it take to get the fade? To me it looks like there isnt enough atomization from to much paint at once. Usually I go around the body like 4 times lightly to get the shadows or fades.
#29
Hmm...the grain patern looks dirty, im trying to get rid of it, should have try more combi on scrap.
Yup, doing 4 to 5 ligh coats for the fading, will try lighter 1st 2 coats, should be better
Using Eclipse HP-CS, .5mm tip (tks Dave for the tip )
Yup, doing 4 to 5 ligh coats for the fading, will try lighter 1st 2 coats, should be better
Using Eclipse HP-CS, .5mm tip (tks Dave for the tip )