motox88

iTrader: (1)

I just painted it blue and drove it a few times and had a few wrecks and ended up with this on a couple parts of the body.

I did not add anything additional other than the blue. Is that the cause? Would a clear coat have prevented this?

Noob to paining so I guess I have to learn the hard way.

Bfutura15

iTrader: (8)

What kind of paint?
How did you prep the body?

FinshLneDesignz

iTrader: (5)

Almost looks like you used paint that does not have a flex agent in it for lexan bodies. If you used model paint that is most likely what caused it.

motox88

iTrader: (1)

well.....I wanna say it was the Tamiya Fluorescent Blue.

I'd have to check the trash can in the garage to confirm.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

Any of the following three will cause this:

Wrong paint
Bad prep
Coats were too thick/heavy

motox88

iTrader: (1)

Paint - I assume acrylic or laquer is okay? What is preferred?
For the prep - I just wiped down the surfaces with alcohol. Should I have done more?
Coats - This may be the cause. Some areas were thicker than others.

Theibault

The Tamiya paint you used, was it TS or PS?

coconut

Have a question thats some what similar. When usinng Shoe Goo to repair cracks in the lexan do you put the Shoe Goo on the outside or inside of the body?

Xpress

iTrader: (3)

Laquer is fine, but you need a flex agent. The Pactra line of paint by Testors or SpazStix brand paints are both great products. SpazStix brand paints are ready to spray while the Pactra line needs to be thinned.

R/C Lidz

iTrader: (59)

I don't think the correct paint will do that evn if applied too heavily. My bet is you got a can of plastic paint (which is normally on th shelf RIGHT next to the R/C paint)


shoe goo on the inside...

Here is a pic of a body a customer prepped. He laid aluminum ductwork tape over the area where the pipe sits then add the shoe goo on top. It's hard to tell, but there is a heavy layer (~1/8" thick) over the entire underside and in heavy contact areas (wheel wells). You can barely see it under the left side of the tape.

coconut

Thanks

motox88

iTrader: (1)

It's Pactra lacquer afterall. Just checked the spray can.

coconut

Where exactly do you put the shoe goo? Do you put it on the two edges thats crack? Is shoe goo to be used before a crack occurs? I have a crack that splits my fender in half. I applied some shoe goo on the area thats crack and held it together for a few minutes, but it still separated when I let it loose.

Flying Monkey

iTrader: (54)

take some of the drywall repair tape (not the paper kind but the kind that looks like a screen) and put that on the inside of the body piecing the crack together. Then put a nice coat of shoe goo over the tape and crack on the inside. Let dry real good and you should be good to crash again. I have to do it alot lol.

For TC bodies I re-enforce the nose the same way. I take a piece of the drywall tape big enough to go over whole width of front and about 1-2 inches onto the side. it has a sticky side so push and form it into the inside of the nose then nice coat of shoe goo. Will hold up a lot longer then without. I also put a thin piece in my wheel wells where my tires rub sometimes in VTA. If you have a 2 piece body like the 69 camaro or mustangs you can use that same method to secure the 2nd piece ot main body after using the double sided tape first to get it in place

motox88

iTrader: (1)

So back on topic...

Thanks for all the replies. I'm guessing that I put it on too heavy in some areas?

I want to paint a new body and just want to make sure that it doesn't happen again.