Second Airbrush Paintjob + thanks
#1
Second Airbrush Paintjob + thanks
Hey all. Some of you chimed in and gave very helpful suggestions on my first airbrush body 3-4 weeks ago, for your reference, the thread is here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/painting...ob-thanks.html
I want to thanks Vintage Tone, extremepaint, and R/C lidz for their help and suggestions. I finally decided to start thinning my paint with 4011 reducer, and boy what a difference. I can spray my black, thinned out about 3thinner/1paint, at like 8psi and get nice tiny little soft lines, starting from the very tinniest of trigger pulls. I have also been working on my drop shadows, and did some on my 2nd body.
I mentioned in that thread that next I would be doing my Jconcepts Buggy body for my B4. Well, I finally finished it last night after many hours of work. The majority of the work was actually coming up with the design, and drawing it out on the body. I did it 100% freehand, and seeing how I am no natural artist of the drawing/painting kind, it took me quite a while to get it semi-symmetrical on the places I wanted it. The second biggest time killer, were the pinstripes. I really took my time because I wanted nice, fairly skinny, very consistent pin stripes, and it paid off in the end. The amount of time with the airbrush in my hand was relatively small, maybe 2 hours? front to back? Im sure the big boys could paint this in 40 minutes front to back, but hey, its only my second body!
I did encounter one problem... My fasflourescent yellow, the 1st coat on the pin stripes would NOT spray through my Iwata eclipse CS. I had it thinned out 50/50 or so, and had to keep the brush a foot and a half away from the body and pull the paint trigger like 90% to get ANY paint to come out... it was bucking and complaining like a little B!&ch. I eventually got the yellow out onto the body, but it made a mess. A quick rinse of the brush... some black in the cup to test, and it sprays perfectly fine down to the tinniest line with barely any air pressure. Any ideas on that one?
I AM able to paint drop shadows now, however not THAT great. My idea was to use a relatively dark base coat under the drop shadows so that if they shadows DONT come out looking that great, it wont be that obvious. The problem is, my base coat didn’t come out as light as I thought it would. Who would of guessed that 50/50 silver and black, would come out 95% black? So you can see the drop shadows a LITTLE bit, if you look closely, but honestly, they still need a little work.
I used a baby blue, dark blue, flourescent yellow backed with silver, and the dark color is actually half black, half silver... which came out pretty dark. Its a tad lighter in person.
Anyway, on to the pics:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/painting...ob-thanks.html
I want to thanks Vintage Tone, extremepaint, and R/C lidz for their help and suggestions. I finally decided to start thinning my paint with 4011 reducer, and boy what a difference. I can spray my black, thinned out about 3thinner/1paint, at like 8psi and get nice tiny little soft lines, starting from the very tinniest of trigger pulls. I have also been working on my drop shadows, and did some on my 2nd body.
I mentioned in that thread that next I would be doing my Jconcepts Buggy body for my B4. Well, I finally finished it last night after many hours of work. The majority of the work was actually coming up with the design, and drawing it out on the body. I did it 100% freehand, and seeing how I am no natural artist of the drawing/painting kind, it took me quite a while to get it semi-symmetrical on the places I wanted it. The second biggest time killer, were the pinstripes. I really took my time because I wanted nice, fairly skinny, very consistent pin stripes, and it paid off in the end. The amount of time with the airbrush in my hand was relatively small, maybe 2 hours? front to back? Im sure the big boys could paint this in 40 minutes front to back, but hey, its only my second body!
I did encounter one problem... My fasflourescent yellow, the 1st coat on the pin stripes would NOT spray through my Iwata eclipse CS. I had it thinned out 50/50 or so, and had to keep the brush a foot and a half away from the body and pull the paint trigger like 90% to get ANY paint to come out... it was bucking and complaining like a little B!&ch. I eventually got the yellow out onto the body, but it made a mess. A quick rinse of the brush... some black in the cup to test, and it sprays perfectly fine down to the tinniest line with barely any air pressure. Any ideas on that one?
I AM able to paint drop shadows now, however not THAT great. My idea was to use a relatively dark base coat under the drop shadows so that if they shadows DONT come out looking that great, it wont be that obvious. The problem is, my base coat didn’t come out as light as I thought it would. Who would of guessed that 50/50 silver and black, would come out 95% black? So you can see the drop shadows a LITTLE bit, if you look closely, but honestly, they still need a little work.
I used a baby blue, dark blue, flourescent yellow backed with silver, and the dark color is actually half black, half silver... which came out pretty dark. Its a tad lighter in person.
Anyway, on to the pics:
Last edited by Cpt.America; 01-17-2010 at 04:09 PM.
#3
You did a great job!!
#5
Nice job, especially for a second effort!!!