Someone PLEASE help me!!!
#1
Someone PLEASE help me!!!
Ok, I just bought a Paasche VL air brush, tons of paint, bodies and have designs, but there is one problem....I can't get it to fade right at all. No matter what I do it seems to splatter. I have tried everything, but it comes out horribly. I started out with a bottle of faskolor pearl blue (very thick), and practiced on a 2 liter soda bottle. I started at 15 PSI, and went all the way up to 90 and it wouldn't spray right, so i would add a little bit of water, and start at 15 PSI again, and go up to 90. I kept doing this till I had the paint almost to milk, and it would still come out wrong. No matter what i do, the fade isn't a fade at all. I've cleaned it out, tried spraying at distances, nothing helps, and i could really use some advice or tips. Anything is greatly appreciated! Thanks-Mike
#2
Tech Adept
i had the same prob with mine all i did was take it apart clean real good with some airbrush cleaner and the washed it all out with hot water let it dry and then i had to mess with tightening or loosening with it and it was al better
#5
Do you have a water trap on it?
I have the same airbrush and I didnt have a water trap right away. That solved my problem.....
If that doesnt work let me know...
I have the same airbrush and I didnt have a water trap right away. That solved my problem.....
If that doesnt work let me know...
#6
just a thought.. I don't have that airbrush, but i bet it still applies... make sure when you put it together that you put it together tightly. If there is an airleak in the brush, it will mess with your results.
#7
Tech Elite
iTrader: (75)
Considering the brush is new, it probably isn't a dirty gun that is your problem. If you got the VL kit, then you got three tips and 3 needles. For fades, I use the largest tip/needle combo which is the #5, I believe (the thickest needle and the largest opening tip insert). If you didn't get the kit, then they only gave you the medium #3 tip and needle. If you were lucky enough to buy the full kit, don't mix the needles and tips. 1:1, 3:3 and 5:5, if you don't, you'll get a badly performing gun.
I know lots of guys spray Parma paints straight out of the bottle, but I have never had much luck with the paint that thick. I prefer a 1:1 paint to water ratio. I will premix the paint and water in a tiny Dixie brand drinking cup, and make sure it is completely thinned down before puring it into the VL siphon cup.
Once there, I will shoot this paint at anywhere from 20-40 PSI, depending on how well it seems to be flowing. It's more of a feel more than anything else. I use a lot of cardboard for test painting to make sure everything is working how it should be. When spraying thinned paint, you have to be very patient, and use lots of light, thin coats. When spraying large patterns, I like to "fog" on different colors, gradating from dark to light, and not cleaning the gun in between colors.
With some practice, and a lot of practice board, you can spray the color changes until you get a nice slight change in colors. Unless I'm going to something like yellow or white, I'll wipe out the cup with a paper towel but not get too nuts about color removal. If I will be going to a light color last, the gun will usually get sprayed through with a quick shot of laquer thinner to remove the previous color more thoroughly.
Spattering of paint can be caused by a lot of things... tip of the brush may be open to far or not enough (it shouldn't be closed down completely, I keep mine open about 1/16" and sometimes more), tip may be clogged, paint is too thick, moisture/water in the tank line, and something many people overlook, the area that you are painting in or the paint itself may be too cold. If you are painting in the garage or the basement, make sure your work area is over like 60 degrees, and the paint is at least comfortable room temperature. I have noticed that these paints aren't too fond of low temps.
Take your time. You probably won't pull it off the first time you do it, but remember that from the driver's stand and under decals, you can't see a bad fade. Keep practicing, paint is cheap!
Good luck,
doug
I know lots of guys spray Parma paints straight out of the bottle, but I have never had much luck with the paint that thick. I prefer a 1:1 paint to water ratio. I will premix the paint and water in a tiny Dixie brand drinking cup, and make sure it is completely thinned down before puring it into the VL siphon cup.
Once there, I will shoot this paint at anywhere from 20-40 PSI, depending on how well it seems to be flowing. It's more of a feel more than anything else. I use a lot of cardboard for test painting to make sure everything is working how it should be. When spraying thinned paint, you have to be very patient, and use lots of light, thin coats. When spraying large patterns, I like to "fog" on different colors, gradating from dark to light, and not cleaning the gun in between colors.
With some practice, and a lot of practice board, you can spray the color changes until you get a nice slight change in colors. Unless I'm going to something like yellow or white, I'll wipe out the cup with a paper towel but not get too nuts about color removal. If I will be going to a light color last, the gun will usually get sprayed through with a quick shot of laquer thinner to remove the previous color more thoroughly.
Spattering of paint can be caused by a lot of things... tip of the brush may be open to far or not enough (it shouldn't be closed down completely, I keep mine open about 1/16" and sometimes more), tip may be clogged, paint is too thick, moisture/water in the tank line, and something many people overlook, the area that you are painting in or the paint itself may be too cold. If you are painting in the garage or the basement, make sure your work area is over like 60 degrees, and the paint is at least comfortable room temperature. I have noticed that these paints aren't too fond of low temps.
Take your time. You probably won't pull it off the first time you do it, but remember that from the driver's stand and under decals, you can't see a bad fade. Keep practicing, paint is cheap!
Good luck,
doug
Last edited by squarehead; 02-14-2004 at 08:44 PM.
#9
Well, I got it to work. I rebuilt and, and found out the needle wasn't pushed all the way forward before tightening, pretty stupid on my part huh? I've got 5 Protoform Lexus's on their way in the mail, anyone have any comments on these bodies? Good, bad, ugly? I got them for $10 each so I couldn't go wrong