livetocrawl

iTrader: (11)

Hey everyone I've been spending alot of time planning and trimming up a body and I'm a little stuck at the paint, it will be a few colours but the main one I want is to do a marble effect, i'm kinda gettin the hang of it but it just doesn't look rite, i'm trying either a blue marble or red, I've done a couple test and it doesn't look near as good as some I've seen, do you use transluscents or more solid paints? I've tried laying saranwrap flat I've tried blotting it scrunched up but still don't look right, my first try was transluscent blue then some silver then black and tried the same with red and also tried trans red then solid red then black came out kinda cool but not quite what I'm looking for so if anyone has any advice they could give me I'd really appreciate it! Thanks guys.
-Tom

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

The translucent is going to be a problem because you're never going to be able to build up layers to make is solid, and the backing color will show through too much. Its best to start with the darkest color and back with the lighter one. I know a lot of people leave the plastic on until the paint dries, but I never figured out why, I lay it down, pull it up and if there are some spots that are too flat, I'll blot them a bit to get the look I want, then I leave it sitting flat until it dries.

livetocrawl

iTrader: (11)

Hey thanks for the advice I actually tried letting it dry with it on and taking it off and blotting with another and found no difference, but you say to do a solid first and then trans?? I never tried that yet I'll give it a whirl thanks again.

Joey Powell

iTrader: (7)

To achieve this look I:
1: Sprayed pactra candy blue
2: Sprayed water based silver covering all the blue
3: took a wrinkled Wal-Mart bag and blotted out (removed) the paint with the bag
4: backed with black
Any transparent color will work for a first coat. When doing red apply several light coats of it to richen the color and keep it from looking too pink. Not trying to bash, but I really don't like the look achieved by using opaque colors. To me it looks like a child's finger painting and not like a pro painters effect. Just saying...

livetocrawl

iTrader: (11)

hey thanks for the tips and showing a picture, thats an awesome paintjob man its almost exactly what im looking for. yea i wasnt 100% on it all and im not very experienced painter so i assumed you went with a trans first, but also did you just spray a nice coat of candy and let it dry ? maybe mine didnt turn out as nice because i tried to marble my first coat ?? in our shops around here im mostly finding tamiya paints and havnt seen any candys or i would have bough them so i might be outta luck for abit there... but anyways thanks for the help ill give it a shot in the morning. any other examples would be cool too if you got em guys

Joey Powell

iTrader: (7)

Createx makes transparent water based colors dubbed "airbrush colors." I have seen trans. bright green, trans. sunrise (orange), trans. yellow, trans. red, and trans. blue. The blue is pretty dark which is why I prefer the Pactra candy blue. All the rest are great. They are readily available at A.C. Moore and Michaels craft stores. They work really well. To clarify the aforementioned steps.
1: Spray several light coats of the selected trans. color. You don't blot the color coat only the silver.
2: Spray one fairly heavy coat of water based silver then blot with shopping bag. Dry with heat gun
3: Back with black and you're done. Easy.

Colors_By_Dave

iTrader: (84)

Faslucent blue, dabbed with plastic, then black backer.

climbaatizept

I will try this effect on my next shell

purerockfury

if you are looking to do blue or red than you can always try the method i use. i use pearlized or metallic paints.

1. i spray my pearlized color pretty heavy, like i'm putting 2 coats on in one try, straight up. usually in sections to prevent the paint from drying on my before i lay down the plastic.
2. take your choice of plastic and lay it down, for a more spaced look, or bunch it up to give a tighter look to the marble.
3. depending on your color choice, you will need to darken your first color. for blue and red you can use a little black. you want to darken the color a little but not too much. and back your first color with it.

not a great pic of the effect but this is one of the bodies i did it on.

Madbrad

iTrader: (30)

Does the silver have to be water based to work ? I dont have an air brush so everything i use will be out of the can, but i want to get this effect. I'll be using blue backed with silver then the final coat i was thinking of using white. Is there any reason i should not use white for my last coat ?

Colors_By_Dave

iTrader: (84)

My best results came when i over reduced the first layer so it dries slower, giving more time to manipulate the effect. My favorite look came from shooting a fairly heavy faslucent Blue, wrinkling it, then backing with black.

R/C Lidz

iTrader: (59)

I always let the first coat dry; everything like Joey said.

Brad, you should be able to use cans.

- I haven't ever tried it, but I would spray the base color and let it dry.

- Then spray silver on something other than the body. You need it heavy enough to pool up so you can get it on the plastic.

I would just put my hand in a plastic shopping bag, spray it with the paint until wet, and then dab it on the body.

- The "marbled" silver is what gives the textured look. If you vary how much you push and slide the paint around, it will have varying "depths".

- Now you need to put on a backing coat; either a darker version of your base color, or black.

Make sense?

Madbrad

iTrader: (30)

Thanks for the reply's, that does make more sence on how it works. I've been testing it out on some of the spare cut out of the body. Its starting to look better, but now im running out of scrap ! Might have to try the real thing tomorrow.

CrazyFast1

iTrader: (15)

I did this with pactra metallic blue sprayed kinda heavy and then blotted with waded up plastic bag dried and backed with pactra silver both spray cans