E.T.

OIC.. Thanks for the reply, Doorman. I have this problem with faskolor mixing with alchohol too. It turn my paint into a very 'gummy' substances; which is unsparyable.
But the same alchohol works fine with the tamiya paint.

May I ask; when you say "ISO rating", what does it mean??? Some kinda international standard???
The alchohol I'm using does not meantion any of these. The label reads
" I.P.A Solvent" - can be dilluted with water. Am I using the right stuff??

Thanks for reading.

XACDesigns

iTrader: (15)

I use 70% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). I abbreviated isopropyl into ISO because I wasn't sure of the spelling.

XACDesigns

iTrader: (15)

another thing, don't mix the alcohol straight with the paint. Mix it 1:1 with windex or water.

I have 2 paint bottles within reach with the following.

1) 1:1 mix of 70% isopropyl alcohol/water (I use this to thin fastint)(yes, I reduce fastint)

2) 1:1 mix of windex/water (I use this to reduce everything else parma)

hope this helps

E.T.

Thanks for the tips XAC. I'll try the 50-50 method. Hopefully I can find the 70% isopropyl alcohol. I love to try windex, this can't be wrong with so many painters recommend it. But problem is, I coundn't find this brand here. There's another maker call "magic cleaner" - same blue stuff, hopefully both are the same....

Cheers.

Bwadd2002

iTrader: (15)

50 PSI???

Wayyy too much PSI.. I shoot mostly at around 15-18PSI and I have no problem with my faskolor.

WINDEX is the only way to go IMO... I do around 60/40 paint to windex works for me. I have a few empty containers so I empty half paint then top with enough windex shake and paint.... I do a little more for certain colors, but in general 60/40. And definately no more than 25PSI... Hope this helps..

Oh yeah.. I use an Iwata Revolution HP-CR with a .5mm tip. Best bang for your buck...

4u2nv

iTrader: (10)

or you can just buy Pactra and you wont have to deal with the reducing crap. I think Faskolor is some of the worst paint out there. It sprays like ass, its chalky and always seems to spray dry. Try Pactra Acyrlics. I GURANTEE you will love them.

BigRed

iTrader: (22)

So do you mix the water/windex/paint together? Or will just windex and paint ratio work?

joe hose

Well the windex worked along with a new compressor! Now how do you fuel proof the faskolor painted bodys for 1/8 gas

BigRed

iTrader: (22)

There is a sealer for the paints to protect them from the nitro fuel. I use a can of pactra spray paint to seal the faskolor. I havent had any problems yet.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Smear a layer of Shoe-Goo all over the inside of the body that works well as a fuel proofer and helps extend the body life. And like Big Red said Pactra spray paint also works.

BigRed

iTrader: (22)

I tired the windex thing this last weekend. It didnt work out so well. i did about a 60/40 mix(piant/windex). I think it might be my air brush. My wife bought me a paasche h set a few years back. What are your thoughts?

Bwadd2002

iTrader: (15)

Big Red,

The key to faskolor is that not all colors, and bottles of colors are the same unfortunately you basically have to start out with feel.... so what I do is I attempt to spray it stock out of the bottle by putting a few drops in my cup and set out on a piece of scrap lexan. I try to do thin lines, and I test big spray patterns, and see what the paint does... does it clump the tip maybe it won't come out at all. Then I know more or less what it will take to get it to work well. Sometime it shoots great as is or only needs 10% windex, sometimes its ass and needs 40-50%. That is my biggest tip... take each bottle as its own type and test before use, only takes a couple minutes, but the next time you go use it.. it will be perfect.. RIGHT! LOL

As for your Airbrush.... there are alot of guys out there that will praise paasche but you have to go IWATA all the way.. 70-80% of painters I believe use then and since I switched to a Iwata Revolution HP-CR from my badger its been beautiful... never a problem, easy maintenance, and well priced. You can get them off ebay for around 70US and it has .5mm tip and you will not have a problem, spraying anything..... ENJOY!!

BigRed

iTrader: (22)

I have a big sheet of plexi i can prctice on. The 60/40 was more like water droplets when it came out. One more qustion, how hard is it to make the adjusment from the single action airbrush to a dual action?

Kcdzim

iTrader: (1)

which paint did you thin to 60/40? As has been stated, different colors need different ratios.

as for airbrushes...

It's like going from a bugle to a trumpet (for those musically inclined). Or a cheap AM radio to an m11. or a radio shack humvee to an associate b4.

Basically, if you know what you're doing with a single action you'll immediately notice the difference and have more control and paint MUCH better. If you have no clue whatsoever, you'll notice a difference in control and continue to suck (& learn). It's not a hard switch either way, it's just more control and if you know how to use it, you'll paint better.

Bwadd2002

iTrader: (15)

Actually , switching to a dual action is not that bad, as I started back into painting just under a year ago. It's push down for air flow and pull back for paint. It's like night and day compared to a single action. This will give you the ability to alot more detailed work, and save paint. If you have a hard time.... just post your problems... I'm sure one of us will be able to help, but I'm sure it will be ok..