JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

Thanks for the reply. Weight transfer could play a roll here as I am running #3 pistons and a weight heavier in the front. I may try going to the same as in the rear to increase weight transfer to front off throttle and increase transfer to the rear. This would actually help both broblems I am having. Again I only need small changes as the car is right there and the provlems are not big but will make all the diff between fast and track record pace.

Thanks again for the input.

psychoracing

try a bigger swaybar in the rear thats what i went to , and i run 70 in the f, and 60 in the r, for shock oil springs i have red in the front and gold inthe rear, 120,000 f, 15,000 r in the diffs...

latemodel13

iTrader: (101)

I think you could go to a lighter rear diff oil to help your problem like 7000. I use Right rear toe out and it really helps these cars roll through the corner. I'm not sure what tires you run but ride height is a powerful tuning tool on rubber tires. I am guessing your running on a very high bite track with the stiff springs your running. Where are you racing ?

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

I mostly race in the central IL area and thanks for the suggestions...

latemodel13

iTrader: (101)

Maybe I'll see you at Big Bills money race and we can talk setups.

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

Yes, that is the track I have been racing at every weekend. I set the track record for 2010 a few weeks ago but then stetler broke the record by about a lap, I can get my car car to run the laptimes to get there, but the track has not been as fast the past few weeks and my right rear tire keeps loading up with dirt and slowing the car down.

I will be running open latemodel, limited latemodel and nitro sprint over that weekend, look me up I will be pitting at the table with the Team Epic Banner, and would be more than happy to trade notes and setup.

The track was pretty loamy last week, managed to pull out an A-Main win on Silver RC4Less Foams, but the track was not really ready for foams that night. I have been grooving my foams with two dremal discs rather than one so that if I get off the groove the car still has good grip in the dusty, loamy stuff out of the groove.

mechanic77

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the input...my only problem is I'm not running the Ofna car, I'm running a Hyper 8.5 converted to oval. On the rear of it I can only go down to 1.5* of toe....although I may get creative and make a new rear hinge pin holder for it I did wonder if running different anti-squat left to rear might upset the car altering how the weight transfers too much. I'm in a similar boat as you, my car is really good, I just think I can make it better

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

Being able to alter the left/right toe angle individually is a huge asset to the OFNA platform (One of few...) that yields some great results, but these are very small, fine tuning adjustments, but it will help get through the corner a bit faster. If you could come up with a bracket that gives you a bit less on the right tire, I think it would pick up some corner speed.

I again agree on the anti-squat, I would keep it the same on left and right.

Good Luck!

LAYMAN123

iTrader: (2)

LOSI dirt oval forum is pretty good lots of pro drivers to talk to! dont have to have a losi to get set up tips on there.

Ovaloldtimer

iTrader: (2)

On the Ofna dirt oval car, throw the sway bars in the trash, when you set toe on the rear, you have to factor in deflection of the arms under power, setting the RR at 1 deg. out and the LR 1 deg in, creates yaw in the car that in turn creates side bite.
You keep wanting help with your car, but you post no %'s for someone to look at and may be see where your problem lay's, throw in you run a side dam, and the game changes.
If your pushing off the turn under throttle your rear has more grip than the front, Why? there are so many reason why a car does what, the trick is to know the correct adjustment to make at a givin time, not just on that bandaids the problem for now.
For the Ofna car up norf on med. to high bite
Throw sway bars in trash
set all 4 droop screws to where the arms are all level
set all springs to where preload is equal and on the light side
RF castor as far back as it will allow you to move the upper a arm
LF 1 thin washer away from all the way back
RF camber -3.00
LF camber +.50
Set the camber on the rear tires the same as front, then put 1 deg toe out on RR and 1 deg toe in on LR
this setup ready to race will be very close to 45.2% nose 51.2 LS% and on Rc4less foams 54% cross
If the track has alot of bite, go up in LS % until it develops a push then decrease a little, also can add more cross
If the track has no to little bite decrease LS % this is done so that you dont over power the slip angles

psychoracing

everythin depends on track condetion from cross to left side to camber and caster everyone drives different...so what works for one it might get u a starting point...

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

I really appreciate everyone's help. I wanted to reiterate that I am not looking for a starting point for the car. The car is already very good and I can run near track record pace and contend for A-Main wins locally.

The car has some small tendencies that I am trying to work out without major changes which are...

1. The car still wants to push in just a little bit. (It will turn in well but not as good as I need it to...)
2. The car wants to step out on throttle coming off the corner.

The second may be due to having to push the car into the corner harder and then it is rotating to hard to compensate for the push...

What I am looking for is how will adjustment of the rear steer effect this condition going in and coming off the corner or what other items would help eliminate this problem?

I need to free the car up going in so that I can stay on the power longer and power into the corners and then get the rear of the car stuck coming off the corner getting more forward bit....

I wanted to kick around ideas on what will help/hurt this condition regarding setup...

Here is an overview of my setup at this point for reference:

Track - (Silver or Gold Foam by second round or main)

Car - Dynotech chassis, shock towers, TC Shocks on Ofna platform

Front:

Springs - Red
Oil - 60 Weight
Pistion - #3
Caster - 1 small shim behind upper arm on right, 1 large shim behind on left
Camber - Right -2 on left +1
Toe Angle - Toe Out -1 Degree
Diff - One-Way
Ride height bottom of chassis 14mm

Rear:
Springs - Right Side - Silver Left Side Red
Oil - 50 Weight
Pistion - #3
Camber - Right -2 left +1
Rear Toe Angles Left -2 Right +1
Ride height bottom of chassis 14mm
Diff - 20K
Running Stock Rear Bar

I just picked up some scales but never used scale previously, so if you want some weights on the car please instruct me on what you are looking for as I am not sure what numbers you would want.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

Thanks

Ovaloldtimer

iTrader: (2)

weight of each tire

Stetler17

iTrader: (6)

Try it without the One-way. I never run mine anymore. My personal feeling is that you have to get out of the throttle too early to allow the one-way to work correctly. I also had the loose off, or even more annoying "erratic" behavior with mine. I'm not saying they won't work at Bill's because Chad has proven that they do, but I can drive way deeper into the corner without it and the car comes off straight. It is easier to be smooth with the car also. Use something else to get it to turn if needed. Rear steer, rear bar like you have now, Stalker body (you will be amazed!!!)

Change the body. The Stalker has the most steering. Leave the windshield in it and it will be loose getting in. Guaranteed. This alone may be that extra tenth you're looking for.

Swaybars will tighten up the opposite end of the car. If you need more traction off, you need a front bar. Your rear bar is probably helping you get in the corner and hurting you off the corner. Make some other changes, then see which bar, if any, that you need.

mechanic77

iTrader: (13)

Thought I might bring this thread back to life

I've been racing a Hyper 8.5 converted to a late model for a couple years now and am looking to change it up some and try running revo shocks all the way around. What I'm looking for is a decent base setup on the shocks, as far as springs and oil go. I'm planning on buying the rc4less springs (soft ones) and fab up a set of shock towers. In my area we run on mostly loose dirt banked ovals, so I'm looking for something that will work on that, although I wouldn't mind some advice on a blue groove flat oval setup (like what the Chili Bowl Jr. will be this year ).

Thanks, Andy