MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Apart from the chassis, the 10X has Corally's anti-sway addition to the front end. The rear end/pod is supposed to be the same as far as I know.

Since a 10X sells for around $240 new, I personally would not pay more than half that for a used C10.

There is a C10 still up on Ebay for $33 with 8 hours to go as of this posting at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1739798077 if you ever like to shop that route.

fReShJiVe

mark - i dont have an ebay account...just asking maybe i'll see it being on the for sale thread here

thirdplace

iTrader: (2)

good, clean racen at socol last night guys.
I had a blast.

Boomer

Yep, it was a great race. Toss a blanket over the three of us for most of the race. . .me with no motor but y'all without quite enough. . .heh heh.

I love racing that way with you and Erik, Richard. . .

rcethilon

Both the c10 and c10x have a front anti-sway. It's just that the c10x is advertised with moe emphasis on its 'new' front anti-sway. The c10 anti-sway is a 3-piece gadet. The c10x anti-sway is 1-piece.

fReShJiVe

rcethilon - i saw pic of your C10 & C10x having suspension on the rear pod...what does it do??i was thinking of putting a shock(touring shock) on my SP12G3/CCT..but it seems to stiff

rcethilon

fReShJiVe The shock does 2 functions. The application of which will make steering more agressive and secondly to a lesser extent reduce the rise in the front end when you accelerate. This gives great on-power steering. The L2 has one too.

You can even take out the shock in low grip tracks or you can make the shock so stiff that the steering becomes so sensitive that it's not driveable on the other hand. I don't think you can drive without a shock at all in the L2. One of the softest TC springs coupled with light oils (Eg. 20 to 40) is all you need. The choice of shock oil thickness is not as critical as in sedans in my opinion. Basically anything from 20 to 40 will do on just about any track.

On my c10x I've made some modifications such that the shock lies more horizontal. This effectively reduces the overall stiffness of the shock ( given any shock and spring). The more horizontal geometry enhances reproducibility of shock performance.

It will tend to negate the roughness due to worn-out ball-ends and any dirt and grime in the balls. You know what I mean. There is also less stress between the shock shaft and the shock barrels with this configuration. It's just very minor details. But it contributes to greater consistency in car performance.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Yeah, an L2 will run like turd without the shock attached.

thirdplace

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, and most of us just run 30w oil in the shock

Boomer

I have had a tendency to drive without my shock attached (I have to unhook it to put my battery packs in) and the car has extreme weight transfer rates forward and aft when the shock isn't present.

So I tend to spin out entering a turn that I have to decelerate for. The car also pushes like a donkey on acceleration (since all the weight immediately transfers backward).

I am recommending that I get a tattoo on my forehead that says "connect the shock, stupid!" - well, not on my forehead but somewhere I can see it. . .

BTW, the reserve on that Corally was $100. . .not sure it's worth it.

Boomer

The current bid is $102. . .for TIRES. . .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1740030846

My friggin word!

fReShJiVe

rcethilon - thank you for the detailed explanation...i don't really think i would need any more steering as they already have tons of steering..maybe i'll try it up someday maybe i'll like the way it handles

Jimmyd

Hi,
Is it possible to reuse the rims on wornout tyres. Anyone know how it can be done?

Boomer

It can be done, but it's messy.

Here's how to do it.

1. Soak the old tires in Acetone/Lacquer Thinner for about 30 minutes (depending on the thickness of the remaining tire. . .sometimes more time sometimes less time)

2. The foam should come right off - wipe the rim clean of old glue.

3. coat the rim with high quality contact cement.

4. coat the inside of a new donut (later. . .) with the same contact cement

5. Dip the donut in Lacquer Thinner for a few moments, then QUICKLY slide/squish/stuff the donut over the rim

6. Let dry overnight!!! (if you don't let it dry overnight, you will have problems when you true the tire down. . .later. . .)

7. True the donut down to size - usually 2.5" for rears, 2.4-2.45 for fronts.

Okay, the Later part - you will need a source of donuts. You can usually find Jaco's and BSR's (I like BSR's best, but that's just me. . .).

You will also need someplace to true the tires down. A tire truer - Hudy makes one ($250-499), Ofna makes one ($350-500) and I use an old MaxMod (out of business, dang it!). If you don't have a truer, or know someone who does, all you will end up with is a big, uneven lump of foam on a rim. . .

I would recommend latex gloves for the above method as it gets REALLY sticky. . .doing one or two at a time is okay, but if you end up doing a bunch, it gets real fun. . .

Jimmyd

Thanks a lot! Do You guys normally do that or you buy premounted tyres?