trackdesigner71

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys. First group of sponsorship information packets just went out today. Another group should go out tomorrow.

sean

[


Some complaints we find valid and are going to change.

1) 1/12 scale fronts- We will beef up the bearing area of the wheel.




i am happy as this was my only real beef. the bearing carrier of the cough..little.cough,cough 1/12 front wheel i had a wheel get a hairline crack pushing the bearing in.but hopefully that is the past. speedytc3 will get the 1/10 class going at SSH and i figured it was good news for you guys as well

THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

RE JACO

Sean, In your post (about 4 back) 3:12 today, Is it your quote or Korgaes about shutting a forum down. I gotts to know , are you referring to Jaco's forum or !/10 pan.

Terry.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

As moderator in this forum, I can tell you he cannot even think about screwing with us in here.

SpeedyTC3

Well, I just checked the Jaco Racing website and do not see any forum links. I could be wrong though. I would assume that Korgae was talking about the Jaco forum. I don't see how they could get this forum shutdown. That would be the end of business for Jaco!!!

David Root

Some one asked me to keep you posted on how it went.

Motor Quad Mag 19 turn Reedy with 9mm comm.

New motors were sent to us, we did what we could and sent them back for evaluatioin. I had #8. The brush hoods lined up perfectly with some tinkering, used stock (766) brushes, soldered the leads, trued the comm, broke it in thoroughly. Set the brush tension to 7.5 on the - and 8 on the +. I even ran it in a couple of races, sent it off. #22, My son Mikey's. We could not get the hoods to line up and making the holes bigger was cheating. SO we installed 767 brushes, trued the comm, broke it in, tweaked the springs and sent it off. Here are the results:

They were all close and needed tie breakers to decide.

1st place was 155 watts, I made 153.

Here is the link http://www.rccars.com/forums/showthr...&pagenumber=46

It was fun and we ended up with 2 19 turn QM reedy motors for a total of $60.00.

David Root

Graphitedust

David,

I was the one that asked you to post the results.....Thank you!!!!

I find it interesting that out of all the motors you posted results for, how close they all were. I would imagine that there were alot of varied things done to those motors,yet most remained very close on the dyno. You even raced yours (got it hot) while some guys didn't so that the magnets would stay at their peak. I bet some guys even zapped the magnets till they glowed...

I've got one of those Integy motor checker things and did a test on all the stock motors I own. I was amazed at how close they were, even motors I knew were soft on the track. I changed different brands of brushes, new brushes vs. broken-in brushes, brush springs, shimming, hood alignment, comm drops, bushing oil. no bushing oil, ......everything I could come up with. Not a whole lot of statistical change was found.

But on track each of those motors had a different personality.

It has been my experence that the only true test of a motors power is on the track.....

Graphitedust

You know, its interesting that in the motors you listed, each motor made more power in each sucsessive dyno pull.....

first pull was the weakest, second pull was better, third pull was the best.

By the way, what did they use for a dyno? Was there a stock-baseline for a unmodified motor? How did it compare to the motors the guys modified?

sean

Korgae was refering to the Jaco forum. what he meant was if people start bashing Jaco on his forum he will shut it down.I did not shred Jaco for the fun of it,there was a problem that needed to be adressed.after many denials of the problem and many posts to the contrary, the problem was finally adressed and from what he says steps are being taken to correct it. it was a means to an end. i spoke with Korgae via PM and they are thinking of putting a different label or at least a "new batch" sticker on the updated wheels. we shall see

David Root

The motors were supposed to be tested first as a baseline. It didn't get done. I am not complaining. That is why I tried to keep mine stock. To see how much could be done above and beyond that. I used original springs and brushes.

The dyno was a CS 45 I think. the pulls were 20, 28 and 30 amps. That is why the numbers look like the motor worked better as it warmed up. 28 was the # to use for the judging, but there were so many ties that the average of all 3 pulls was used for the tiebreaker.

It proves my point, time spent on a motor aligning brush hoods and making sure springs are perfect make the most out of the motor. #8 had 766 brushes with hoods aligned perfectly. # 12 had 767 brushes but didn't do as well because we could not align the hoods with out cheating. the winner used 767 brushes too. His hoods aligned perfectly and it shows.

A fresh cut on the comm and reserating the brushes helps too, but I dont have a serrator. I may get one now.

Aligning the hoods is just like sync carbs or setting dual points. It has to be perfect to get the most out of the motor. It costs nothing except time.

These motors have a round can and a small tab to lock the timing. I want to cut it off , lower the timing (its like a KR) and geear a little taller to see what I can get.

SO I can make my motors go fast, I just can't drive.

David Root

trackdesigner71

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys, I have good news. There will be a temporary website up end of this week where you can get info on the race until the official site goes up (which will be sometime next week)

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

David, how tight do you shimm your motors? Over here, we shim our motors so that they're tight wen at normal working temperature. That way efficiency goes through the roof, and you're able to gear about 2 teeth taller, without overheating!
It takes a lot of patience, but you can really get your motors perfect.

David Root

Pro 10

I leave as little as possible, maybe .005 or so. I never tried to shimm with no clearence because I figure the arm gets warm first and wold expand first so it would be tighter until the can heats up. Do you guys use bearings or bushings? We have bushings and that gives me one more reason to leave a little play. I use mobil 1 synthetic oil, one drop on each end when I assemble. I do use a nylon spacer that rides next to the bushing.

Trackdesigner,

Good work!


David Root

Boomer

BTW - if anyone is still interested:

A while ago I did a comparison of actual shore ratings (as published by various manufacturers) of our tires. I made a chart and published it here:

http://www.malsed.com/Shore.htm

SPEEDx971

Thanks lot Boomer............
It will help newbies as Old