sean

i think i will start with some softer front springs and maybe a little sauce on the front wheels i had only been using it on the rears because thats where my problem is, i mean was as for the body i have to stick to sedan because they dont have enough interest at the track for 1/10 pan car.anyway the stratus is much better than the skyline i used to run. i just hope i can keep the balance once i go back to 6 cells.i am still set up for the 4cell 19t that never happened.with 6 cells i should be able to peel their (sedans) stickers of when i rocket past them! like i said seeing how this car handled on pavement gives me a lot of hope for carpet. it only took 5 months,but it was worth it. like david i too expect complaints once i get this thing dialed in and the "supierior" 4wd's cant keep up, especialy on the straights

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Just to clarify that a bit; stiffer side shock springs do add steering. It’s just that it only does so up the point where the entire car (all fours tires) skates laterally like you’ve described. I think you just hit that point on your track a lot quicker than any of us have.

Sean – If you have to stay with a Sedan body, think about trying an Alfa. Those are supposed to add steering and overall downforce.

speedxl

sean i recall running blue side spring and silver in the center with 30 wght oil al around and .020 springs up front with 10 deg blocks and 2 spacers at the rear and your car should be dialed we ran touring bodies for awhile down here in florida and that worked good if you have to run a sedan type body run the acura nsx it should work almost like a gtp body staying in the sedan range of bodies also try the saleen gt-1 ( ithink some one makes it not sure though)

sean

thats what i have-blue side springs,silver center an 30wt all around-10 degrees up front. whats up with sanding diff rings, whats the theory behind that and how do i do it? also i dont have a pinned diff is that important? some of my spur gears have 6 diff ball holes,some have 8, and others have 12-i am not sure what to make of that, i try to use 8 when i can. robbinson racing 64pitch seem to be the most consistant as far as not being warped.are there better ones?

TOADYY

iTrader: (6)

Diff ring explanation from IRRGANG RACING SERVICE:

1. Why do you sand your diff rings instead of polishing them?
R/C differentials are a friction style differential. The diff balls (we suggest our grade 25 diff balls P/N IRS204) need to grip the diff ring to work efficiently. If you polish the diff rings, the diff will slip and therefore be less efficient. Roughen the diff rings with sandpaper to create more grip for the diff balls. By using this method you should not have to over tighten the diff nut to stop the spur gear from slipping, this is when most diffs are damaged.
I suggest you try this experiment if you don't believe me. Build a diff polishing the diff rings and feel how it works. Then build a diff using the method described in question #2, You'll feel a definite difference. As an added bonus, when the rings start to wear, resand and reuse.. You'll get more races out of the same rings and they get better each time you sand them! This trick will work on all ball differentials.
2. How do you sand your diff rings?
I place a sheet of 600 grit wet/dry sand paper ( for 1/8" balls) or 800 grit wet/dry sand paper (for 3/32" balls) on a flat surface. Place the rings on the sand paper and using your fingers or our Diff Sanding Tool P/N IRS509 and sand the shine off the rings. I do both sides but you only have to do the side facing the diff balls. I make sure they're clean and free of any debris and making sure no excess diff lube gets on them when I put my diff together. (Use only a small amount of diff lube on each diff ball)


http://www.teamirsrc.com/techtips.html

sean

i was just checking out revelations web site-thats a sweet track you guys have. it looks like mostly nitro, that place must be some noisy. it must be pretty cool to see those large scale cars go at it though

David Root

I read it on a 1/12 scale web site. Sanding the diff rings makes the diff work much better with LESS tension on it. In 1/12 smooth is the word for diffs. It makes a big difference.

What I do is put some fine 400 or up sand paper on a flat surface like my computer desk/workbench, and rub the rings in a circle motion. this roughs up the surface so the balls can get traction on the rings. IF they get traction you need less tension on the diff nut and cone washer to get the same amount of diff action. Try it with one side of a set of rings and you will see a big difference. We don't want the balls or diff to slip, so give them a surface to "bite into" and they will slip less and actually be smoother acting than a shiny finish on the diff rings. I think IRS makes a "Tool" for the same thing.

Mark,
If the car could drive flatter (less roll) and keep traction, I can see how stiffer side springs would give more steering and make the car react faster. But I was spinning out at the end of the straight and the softer side springs cured my problem. After that I even could go from black to green on the center shock. I even put some oil in it

I run my 1/12 on carpet with a real stiff center and side springs because rear traction is not a problem. This is where I learned a stiffer center spring costs me low speed steering. I had to find a balance point.

Thanks to everyone here for making my first summer with a "Pro 10" a great one. I would run this thing indoors if it wasn't for all them TCs.

David Root

sean

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Hey SoCal Guys, go check out “holycow” comments about our class in the SoCal thread at: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...124#post500124

Read his whole post, it’s very complimentary.

Erik R.

iTrader: (2)

AC power isn't available. I guess its basically a parking lot race so you need to bring your own stuff.

speedxl

sean if traction is a problem in the middle of the corner then going to softer side springs (one rate down i think silver or green)
will help you also if its oversteering going into the corner (car rotating to fast) try and use less caster or o toe! that will make the steering less agressive!

David Root

Trction in the middle of the corner.

I was getting initial turn in, then loosing my steering, then it came back once I was "In the corner" with Green side springs. Softer springs (black) helped this, but think I am going to try softer front springs (from 22 to 20) with stiffer (green) side springs and see if it works too. If not I can put it back how it was.

At first I thought it was a quirk, but I can duplicate it. I did change my caster from 0 to -2 but it seemed to make it worse.

This change MIGHT work because ther are no shocks on the front springs so they can act or react as fast as they want.

Trying it this weekend
David Root

sean

thinking about getting a 1/12,any suggestions?it will be used for tight carpet track-4 cell mod

David Root

Chevy....Ford......

There is a 1/12 forum in the electric on road section. I have one and love it.

David Root

thirdplace

iTrader: (2)

I'll get us a generator for our group.
but, we still need 6 pancars. anybody, anybody