btw speedbump57,

how's the collari B7?
heard it makes good power but i'm abit skeptical of Sirio based engines...

Nerd IMO the B7 is very much like the older WS7I or the newer S7II but with more overall power. It is very smooth and easy to drive hard. What impressed me the most was the top end power it makes. I got the engine about mid summer but didn't race it until the end of the season. I was tiring out different engines last season and for no reason I just ended up running it last. I know some team drivers that have had very good luck with them also. It will be the very first engine I run in the spring. I also have a P5X from EB that I really like. I have driven a V-Spec and I agree they are a very powerful engine but I didn't much care for the power curve. It just seemed like it was either on or off with no in between. It was not mine so maybe it wasn't tuned very well. It was fast though!

Bump

Thanks Dr. Nerd,
I will look into the engines you are talking about. I never thought about replacing my con rod with a Nova rod. My LHS has the OS con rod in stock but I guess I could tell them to order me a Nova one. I have know clue about the insides of the engine so is there any differance in Nova con rods or can I just tell the owner to order me a Nova .21 con. rod?

hi kyracer.

i didn't change to a novarossi conrod. i used novarossi bearings in my V-Spec.
you can get boca bearings too, heard they are quite gd too.

main problem with V-Specs is that their bearings are either gd and last a long time or they're lemons. if you get a lemon, it'll cause your crankshaft to vibrate and tt leads to broken conrods etc...
it's a 50/50 situation, that's why i decided to replace them with nova ones, no more worries!

pls do not ever use nova conrods in your V-Spec!, the internals are totally different.
and do get a new V-Spec conrod if you intend to rebuild you engine.

regards!

It was a typo on my part. I am in the process in replacing my con rod with a new OS con rod. Im not going to deal with changing bearings. I dont really know anyone that has the tool to do such a process. Not really to happy about putting more money in a defective product. I will stick with the plan. Add new con rod and only run my V spec at major races like Pro series or money races around my area.

I have a RB Concept 3 port on its way so it should work well for my primary engine.

Kyracer no need for a special tool to remove the bearings. Take the engine totally apart down to case and bearings. Pre heat the oven to 350* and bake about 8-10 min. Remove from oven with oven mit and gently tap on wood surface and the bearings will fall out on their own.

I read that in a mag. before, I thought it would be hard to put the new bearings back in. I guess what your saying is the bearings tighten up due to the heat stress over time.
Is taking out is the hard part, putting new bearings back in is a snap.

Well not really. What you are doing with the heat is causing the case to expand. The Alum case will expand quicker the steel bearings. To put them back in you do the same thing only in reverse. What I do when I am putting them back in is to heat the empty case again. Then place the front bearing on the crank shaft. When you pull the case out of the oven with gloves on slip the front bearing that is still on the crank into the front of the case. If you are quick you can remove the crank and place the rear bearing on the crank and slide the crank into the rear of the case and with a plastic end of a screw driver or a wooden dowel you can push on the crank to put pressure on it to seat the bearing straight. The crank should spin freely at this point, if not you will have to start over. I have never had to start over doing it this way though.

Hope this helps
Bump

Sounds easy nuff.

Thanks bump

^

yup kyracer, go n get either the novarossi bearings or boca bearings for your V-Spec. (i think the bocas are cheaper and easier to buy online.)
it's worth the effort to get the bearings replaced.
that will settle your problems once and for all...

I'm getting ready to break in a P5X. Should I use a heat gun in the begining or just fire it up and let it idle?

Thanks

do use the heat gun..........

and don't break the engine in at idle...........if you're using a bench let it run at full speed..........at 80~100ºC

or run at the track with a rich setting and moderated accelerations....

What about the heat cycle method everyone is talking about.
I thought we were supposed to do the 3 5min cycles and 5 3min cycles And then run at the track.

IMO constant load is the key to achieve best performance and long lasting engines............

you can do that with a bench and a propeller only.........