OS .21 VZ-R Version II Engine
 

What do you guys think about this engine?


Cheers
Luke

For a $300 engine, it's very impressive. Get Murnan to modify one, and you'll run with anything. :D

i would suggest you to get the 321p. The OS is not woth to buy as it does not last very long.

Ok you guysone is telling me its a great engine and the other is saying it aint good. Reviews say its good....so what shall I do?I am in a dilemma.

man just go with the OS , my mate theo is running one and hes competing against JPs,Novarossi's and they have trouble keeping up with himn No Bull :nod:

I run a RB C5 onroad, 4 of the guys at our tracks are experienced racers, just not with 8th scalers, their winning the 20 min. A mains. One of the guys, has run his car, a MRX3, 2 weeks, and has fininshed in teh top 5 both weekends.

Maybe the fact that it is a little underpowered, if it is, makes the car easier to drive. Like I said, Grinder, Murnan Modified, did some tricks to a couple of them, and they may not have run as fast as the track record holder, with MF modded Nova Max, as he set a NEW track record, but it was within 1 lap.

Also, IT'S A 300 DOLLAR ENGINE ! ! ! You could buy 2 1/2 for what the Nova Max costs. The ones at my track have me thinking of getting one.

I always like OS engines because they are always easier to tune once you break it in properly. Italian mills probably run faster. But, they are much more sensitive to tuning. For a $300 engine .21, I don't think you can find one that is better. BTW, I saw over at rc-toro and rc-mushroom selling much less than $300.

IT is BS that theese engines do not last long. The new generation Os engines is just as good as any italian made engine when it comes to how long it lasts. OS moved their P/S manufactoring t Taiwan and can now use chrom instead of nickel on their sleevs.

My V-spec buggy engine has run 12 liters between 130 nad 140 degrees celsius and is still in great shape!

It is not as fast as the Italian engines but for 300 bucks it is great. I bought one and was going to run Norwegian champs but it rained away. But is was quite fast until the rain came out.

id say that if you want to prolong the engine life get Boca or Novarossi ballbearings and ull be fine, it ll last much much longer

thanks ppl.


How ever i am sticking with my OPS engine.Its like a turbine engine that thing is so fast.


luke

I run the VZR locally, and it is very competitive.

I have run about 3 gallons through mine (race days only), and have had no problems at all. My VZR holds a tune, and has good straight speed if you use a larger tire diameter. Its not a JP, but its not $700 either. When it comes time to replace a rod, Tower Hobbies has them, and a piston and sleeve is $109!!! Try that on a JP, or RB where a piston and sleeve are $250-$350 ..... screw that.

DaRaceMasta is right about the bearings, you can get them at Boca.

Here are some part #s from Boca themselves.

MR2514 TH9/C3 - High heat, High Speed bearing $24.95 each
MR2514C TH9/C3 - Same High Heat, High Speed Bearing with Ceramic Balls $44.95 each.

I ran this engine at my my local state titles in the past few days and i can say for the money its a reasonably good engine but in stock form its a fair way off the performance of top engines like JP, MAX, Collari etc. For the money its good value though.

i will be running mine in this weekend so ill let u know how it goes
i got the novarossi 2015 pipe set for it so hopefully it should run sweet

i noticed the engine came with another shim
if im using 25% nitro should i add the extra shim ?

I'd probably run the engine as is. I did that with my Old Nova Top and had no problem tuning or running it. It also keeps up with the faster engines providing you have great drivers skill, which is the key to success. Sometimes a little more power can help though, but in 8th onroad, these things are just soo fast. A little more power will help on those giant sized tracks that car run 5th scales or so. I may try a VZR later on or that Ninja engine.

How much pinch should I feel on this engine. I have this engine with only 10 tanks ran through it (some would say its not even broke in yet) and now with engine at room temp and glow plug out, I can feel some pinch but can pretty easily turn it over. I tried the same test with my 12tz and can't get it past TDC. These tests are done in the cars and turning the flywheel from bottom with my finger. If the 21vz-r is too loose I can't understand why, because we always preheat the head to 220 degrees F. bafoe starting and during breakin on the breakin bench have wrapped the head with aluminum tape and maintained at least 200 F. with a heat gun. Then left the tape on when we ran it around in the car with at least 170 F. So does a 21 have less pinch then a 12? Or is my p/s wore out already? We just touch it to the starter box and its running and it has very good power in the car.

O.S. VZ-R
 

I have a a VZ-R that I just replaced the piston/sleeve in (never started), and with the plug out, it has just a light pinch at TDC just as you describe. My other VZ-R has several gallons through it, and it has seen 280 F a few times..... still runs excellent. I think its just starting to break in, you have nothing to worry about.

Do these motors have con rod problems? we had two 1/8 onroad racers loose rods, both engines were new, both on there 15 to 20 tanks, the rods broke above the crank pin. I have never seen a rod do this. the one motor is junk, rod went out the bottom and toasted the sleeve also.

O.S. VZ-R
 

I have not had any problems with mine thankfully. I wonder if there was a bad batch of rods from OS? I don't run any more than 30%, and lately the 25% with the INS Box. Did you take time to break it in before running it hard?

the conrod in my 7 tank old vzr let go yesterday
and the thing is it wnet at idle and stripped the gears in my new mrx4 :(

i was driving it slow at rich around the track running in the engine then i came in to pit lane to refuel as i took off the conrod let go just above the bushing

all the expert racers at the track said it seamed to be a manufacturing fault and should send it back under warranty. the lhs said nope its normal for engines to blow rods (blah) and he tried to sell me another one.

im gonna email os engines direct and tell them that there local distributor here is being an ass about the whole thing. hopefully they can help me out seeing that the engine is new.

I was one of the two 1/8th scale Rose City Scale Racing members who's con-rod let go after 20 or so tanks. I am hopeful that Tower hobbies will make it right. I'll let everyone know.

I bought mine brand new took it apart and measured everything, crank timing, port timings, crank pin. conrod. I thought there was to much clearance in the rod and crank pin when it was brand new. After break in and 1 race day crank pin is worn .0005 out of round and conrod appr. the same giving it another .001" play in the crank pin and rod.

I dissasembled mine when new just to clean it. I do remember it being very easy to slip the rod onto the crank pin. Wish I would have checked the measurements before I sent it back. Thanks for the info.

i had my local hobby shop send the engine back to the distributor as he also believes this is a manufacturing fault with the rod.

the distributor just said see page 17 of the manual as the engine is not covered under warranty! this sux

i sent a nasty email to os in japan hoping they can do something. i also mentioned that iw ould not be using OS engines any more if they cant help me.

ill see how this goes

I guess I'm fortunate to have purchsed my vz-r from tower. They have shipped me a new engine due to the total destruction of the engine. Not taking chances I ordered a new rod and connecting pin for after break-in.
It has been suggested thet I sell this motor and buy an italian plant but I think I'm going to give it another chance.

Larry
www.rosecityscaleracing.com

I lost my Conrod this weekend at the MWS in Toledo, and another guy lost his. I had less than a gallon on this engine. Damaged the sleeve but piston is ok. If I can get the sleeve out I think it can be salvaged with a new Rod. Looks like a new rod with every gallon.

Makes me wonder if the con-rod is not up to the task. I bought the motor after seeing one run and win the roar regionals in Seatlle. That motor is still running fast this season. I'm hoping the con-rod I bought to throw in after break-in may be from a different batch and not suffer the same fate as the last one. Anyone have thoughts on this?

i opened my engine up today and the piston/liner are perfect
im gonna replace the conrod then sell the engine...

going to buy a trusty max power MF
heaps more money but i hear these are awesome engines to stick with

I'm going to pick-up an MRX4R soon and I would like to get one of these motors. I see reviews are mixed on this motor but this will be my first 1/8 on road, will this motor be good for me? I'm not going to race any Worlds or National events I'm just going to race at my local track thats all.

The performance and price are great. I worry about the conrod situation, seems to be more of these letting go in this engine than I have heard of before.

after the lack of OS support with these engines im going to say stay away from these engines. all they could say without even opening up the engine was refer to page 17 "no warranty..."

too many of these engines are having conrod problems. unfortunately for mine when the conrod went it took out a piece from the bottom of the piston then went thru the the liner.

dude for the little money more go for the mugen ninja r01. ive heard many great stories about these and ive seen them run at our track, they are really fast and seam reliable to finish races.

i will be throwing out this vz-r and getting a mugen ninja.

O.S. VZR
 

Dag32, I see you are in SoCal. What do you race currently and where?

I have the OS VZR and have had no problems. I run at Crystal Park and find my motor to run very well compared to the others. With a few gallons through mine, I am still on the same original rod. I purchased a new rod, but have not installed it yet. With a good setup and clean driving, you will have plenty of power with the OS.

hey guys
trying to save this engine beforee my new one arrives

i had purchased a replacement conrod for this engine before i had reliased the piston/liner was screwed/ and i noticed there are no oil holes in the rod.
so theirs a oil hole in the crank shaft to get into the rod but no oil hole for the oil to leave.

this seams strange as all the other engine ive used have oil holes.

msgsr, after viewing your post about the rod I went to check the new one I recently purchsed.... it has no oil hole either. Have not checked my motor to see if it has one or not.

what oil content is in your fuel ?

i wonder if no oil hole and low oil content is bad for these engines ??

I run no more than 30%, usually Byrons but have run Blue Thinder and Odonnel.

i meant oil content %

i only run 25% nitro in my fuel

You shouldnt have issues with 25%

I just got a MTX-4 and I like it so much I want to get a MRX-4R too. I run at Revelation but I want to make it down to Crystal Park soon... real soon!

Crystal Park is a better track for 1/8th as the back straight is longer and the motor get actually hit nice speed. I raced at Revelation last year at the Toys for Tots event, and didnt have too much fun. There was an unreal amount of traction, actually too much and I had to find some old brick fronts (luckily I had them) to get my car to work. I think I removed the rear sway bar too, and recall ripping my front belt to shreds from the traction. I have seen some 1/8 guys cut down the width of their front tires to reduce steering out there.

If I remember, I will send a PM to let you know when I plan to head out to C.P. I think you will like what you see from the OS motor.... I really like them.

The nitro sedan Nationals are at CP, check it out if you get a chance.