Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Thanks Josh! I knew they were going to be silly questions, but just need clarification.

Have you found any one engine respond better to your procedure over another?

BB

Josh Cyrul

iTrader: (1)

Bundy - Not really. I had success with Top, NovaMega, JP and now with Sirio with pretty much the same procedure.

BigBadJabba

hi. if after the 4 tanks of run in, there is still pinch - is it ok to go on the track and race tune it?

Josh Cyrul

iTrader: (1)

Jabba - Yes. There should always be pinch. If the engine gets to where you can turn it over (with no plug in it) and you don't feel it tighten at the top then the engine is worn out and you are loosing power. You must have a little pinch so that things fit proper when the engine warms up to temp. I've run 5+ hours on my .12 engine and it still will push the sleeve out of the case when I turn it over with the head off.

SoCalLosiRacer

I won an HPI 12R SS this weekend in a raffle, and HPI advertises it as having nickel-carbide plating technology. Marketing gimmick or not, would this affect break in? They recommend the same break-in as some other manufacturers (run it rich in the car at low throttle for 6 tanks, then lean out).

Would this method work?:

-With the car on a starter box, start the engine and blip the throttle to bring the temps up.
-Run WOT for 2-3 minutes, shut it off, and let it cool down
-Repeat for a total of 6 tanks (like recommended by HPI)
-Run the car on the track at normal RPM's and gradually lean out

Does anybody see any problems with this? This sorta peices together some stuff I've seen. This is what I plan on doing as long as nobody can find any obvious flaws in it... I don't want to break the engine in on the track, but I don't have anywhere else to break it in by actually running the car.

I like Josh's method, the the issue for me is noise. Running the engine WOT for tanks at a time probably wouldn't go over too well with my neighbors.

Xyvern

So if you use Josh's break in method and your are runing WOT for the 1st 3 tanks do you want the engine running very rich like it's 4-stroking ? or with higher temperature like above 180F ?

jeffreylin

Personally I would keep that temperature above 180F to ensure you are breaking-in the piston and sleeve at or close to normal operating temperature.

Xyvern

Hey Jeffrey,
Thanks, btw are you back from Taiwan yet

jeffreylin

Not yet. I will be back next week before Thanksgiving though.

M7H

The RPM is quite high then (still 4-stroking though), so I would go for something in between.

jeffreylin

Because the RPM could be too high, I do not WOT all the way. I would rev-up, WOT for a second or so, rev-down, idle for a bit, then repeat all over again.

It takes longer to break-in this way but I've had good results with it.

Xyvern

Cool, hopefully I can get my snake back by then. I'll see u at Ravelation then.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Hey guys. Been awhile since this thread has surfaced. Figured I would post a video of the motor in "cyrul mode"

Ive done a few motors with it and im going to show how to get into the mode. But here it is , in the mode and you can see the car is not moving and at full throttle.

I also set it a little richer once I got a hand free and I was setting it as rich as possible without flaming out.

After using this method quite a few times with a slight tweak to it to match what the manufacturer suggests. Its really great. The motors come around with good power very quickly and easily.

http://www.pro-hobby.net/video/r40_c...od_breakin.wmv

Thanks to Josh for providing such great info for everyone to use!

bosfan

how are you able to hold full throttle with out the car moving?

Corse-R

Wrong! A temp gun is an artificial necesity, each engine is different and they run at 100% at different temperatures. No matter if they are two engines of the same model, they will run at different temperatures.

Hearing your engine can be difficult at a track with other 9 cars running, but you don't need to hear it on all the track, I hear and recognize my engine when it passes in front of the rostrum and if you manage it, you may hear it on the backstraight and other curves.

A living example: My first Sirio (a black headed S12TRP ABC) liked to run around 145ºC. Meanwhile, the one who pit me, was a freak of temperature and it insisted on adjusting it for 115ºC. That engine was a real dog. 30ºC more and the engine woke up. It lasted long, long time (the P/S lasted around 25 litres and retired it bored about it at the end of the season). Changed 2 times the conrod but nothing more.

I usually pit for some friends and the first times they scared when they saw me adjusting the needles without taking a temperature reading of the engine, one put himself so nervous that yelled me 'Use the temp gun!' - I answered. Isn't the engine running ok? Any problem? then shut up and drive!. Something pretty simmilar I've heard it to a respectable engine tuner at the last 1/8 EC (and of course he didn't use a temp gun...).

Many 'engine gurus' here told a myriad of times to forget the absolute temp. readings and adjusting by ear (Dennis Richey, comes to my mind about this...). Absolute temps given by the manufacturers are a simple number for guidance, but the temperature they give you can be quite inconsistent.

A very graphic example: The same engine, running at 115ºC (a very reasonable temp for an actual .12 - some wil say 'a little wuss') with an air temp of only 10ºC isn't the same of running it with an air temp of 30ºC. On the first case, the engine is about melting down, on the second case, the engine could be a tad rich (Cold air robs more heat from your engine, giving you false readings).

Regarding break-in methods I'm with Josh... Everyone has their own break-in method, mine is very similar to their and it worked well for me during all the years I'm with nitro cars.