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BuKu Speed Tune Clutch for 1/8th Scale on road GT
Hello guys, I wanted to start this thread for the discussion of our 1/8th scale clutch and how it's being used for on-road application.:) For you guys who are already running it (if you willing;)) post up some of your findings with the clutch and maybe some clutch settings as well for those who may be considering running it for on road...Thanks Fellas
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I plan to try my Buku on my GT8 at FBF next weekend. Love it on my offroad car. Will the lack of a vented clutch bell on the two speed present a problem? I figured I'd start with my offroad settings, and just adjust from there.
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Originally Posted by Gary NJ
(Post 11103925)
I plan to try my Buku on my GT8 at FBF next weekend. Love it on my offroad car. Will the lack of a vented clutch bell on the two speed present a problem? I figured I'd start with my offroad settings, and just adjust from there.
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Well I have to say that I was skeptical about trying this clutch then when I tried it I keeped asking my sel y dint I try it before its so easy to tune and u could actually tune it to your way of driving will recomend hands down
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I put it in my Kyosho Gt2 the Best Clutch I ever had
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very good
Good punch n is the same punch from beginning to the finish
Very easy for tuned thanks Tony Q for shows us this clutch |
very nice clutch
hey tony q thanks for show me the way to get a better climb in my power clutch the bu-ku is the best that i ever seem thanks again:nod::nod::nod::nod::nod:
Originally Posted by TONY-Q
(Post 11113813)
Well I have to say that I was skeptical about trying this clutch then when I tried it I keeped asking my sel y dint I try it before its so easy to tune and u could actually tune it to your way of driving will recomend hands down
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Well im my opinion Buku is the best clutch i ever, ever try in my life.
Go ahead guys and start using buku. You guys not going to regret. Easy to tune and it last way longer than the normal 3 shoes clutch. Tony Q just order me 2 more complete clutches with a harder springs. Looking for a better punch. "buku the Best" |
Tony, whilst in the Buku land, how's that Buku tunable pipe doing ??
Jacko |
Originally Posted by Victor Vector
(Post 11122657)
Tony, whilst in the Buku land, how's that Buku tunable pipe doing ??
Jacko |
Here is a tuning setup that seems to work very good on gt2
go all yhe way in than backout 1 1/2 turns on 1 and 2 and 1turn on 3 |
Originally Posted by Victor Vector
(Post 11122657)
Tony, whilst in the Buku land, how's that Buku tunable pipe doing ??
Jacko |
Originally Posted by Joseph16
(Post 11121605)
Well im my opinion Buku is the best clutch i ever, ever try in my life.
Go ahead guys and start using buku. You guys not going to regret. Easy to tune and it last way longer than the normal 3 shoes clutch. Tony Q just order me 2 more complete clutches with a harder springs. Looking for a better punch. "buku the Best" |
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I would like to thank Bukupower for providing us with an outstanding product. This last weekend Scotty Gray was able to TQ and Win the Panamerican GT Race in Homestead Florida one of the biggest GT races. Buku Adjustable clutch really made the difference optimizing the power to the ground. Scotty was very surprised to improve his laptimes by turning the set screws in the clutch while we were testing. It is that easy !!
I had a minor problem on my semi final that didnt allow me to make it to the big show Special thanks to Dave for always being there for me, Im really glad to represent such a good product. |
BuKu clutch got the job done (TQ'ed and 1st place finish for the GT8 class) in the Midwest Series Race #1 at Toledo, OH. I am so amazed on how easy to tune the clutch on the fly. Championship product made for champions. Great product for the GT8 class. Keep up the good work guys. Thank you Brian!!!
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/...psb8cefdd1.jpg http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/...ps50e8b727.jpg |
I have only heard good things about this clutch and want it in my Cobra GT asap. But have a question which shoes is recommended for a Reds M7T-GT motor. I understand that the standard weight komposite bond shoes are for Off road motor used in GT, and the light weight shoes for On road motors used in GT... So which would I buy??
Also going to try the new crank caps :) Thanks Tony |
Originally Posted by tonylunatic
(Post 12229239)
I have only heard good things about this clutch and want it in my Cobra GT asap. But have a question which shoes is recommended for a Reds M7T-GT motor. I understand that the standard weight komposite bond shoes are for Off road motor used in GT, and the light weight shoes for On road motors used in GT... So which would I buy??
Also going to try the new crank caps :) Thanks Tony Its a great cluch just use a fresh clutch bell:nod: How are you? The caps work great also:nod:been useing them for about a month;) |
Just a heads up with a cobra gt the 34mm flywheel is to big. It just wants to meet the rear brake disc! Had a 34mm set up off my DM1 and couldn't use it. Iv been running the stock serpent stuff but its junk. Shoes wear out within 1/2 gallon! I need just a 32mm flywheel to put my shoes and springs on if anyone has a spare they want to part with!!!!
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Originally Posted by 1966ss
(Post 12274122)
Just a heads up with a cobra gt the 34mm flywheel is to big. It just wants to meet the rear brake disc! Had a 34mm set up off my DM1 and couldn't use it. Iv been running the stock serpent stuff but its junk. Shoes wear out within 1/2 gallon! I need just a 32mm flywheel to put my shoes and springs on if anyone has a spare they want to part with!!!!
Try again 34mm does fit:nod::D |
34 mm does work on Serpent. Please make sure to install the bigger brake disc in the front and smaller one in the rear so the buku fly wheel won't come in contact with it.
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Yes I know smaller brake rotor in the back had it. With the stock gearing it did not fit! Maybe I got an irregular flywheel as mine measure almost 34.5mm. I going to try it again as I now run different gears. Had a couple people say it should have worked and saw with there own eyes it did not!
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Buku web site said the fresh bell needs the komposite shoe to break in, is it avaliable from Buku? I didn't find the komposite shoe available.
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Originally Posted by beebone
(Post 14259396)
Buku web site said the fresh bell needs the komposite shoe to break in, is it avaliable from Buku? I didn't find the komposite shoe available.
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Originally Posted by RoketRdr
(Post 14260239)
The clutch systems come with the Komposite shoes. You MUST run a new/fresh clutch bell with them and not one that has already been run with other clutch materials. Run whatever your favorite clutch bell is. Just make sure its new and fresh.
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Originally Posted by beebone
(Post 14260932)
Thanks! What about the break-in process? Starts from low spring tension in low rpm and run on track?
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Originally Posted by RoketRdr
(Post 14261065)
I've had two systems and didn't do any specific break-in on either of them and they work flawlessly. Took it out of the box, installed and dropped the hammer. Haven't looked back. :sneaky: The ability to tune the clutch on the fly is worth its weight in gold. :nod:
Anyway, can light version for on road engine use on GT engine? |
Guys, I've been running the standard serpent clutch on my Cobra GT (setup 2 composite and 2 alu with hard/x-hard springs) and have been having good results with little wear. I'm now considering trying the Buku GT clutch. Looking at their website there are 2 versions one with standard weight shoes and one with lightweight shoes.
Now I understand that standard weight if you are using an off-road engine and lightweight shoes with an onroad engine however which should you use for a specific 5-port GT engine like the Novarossi ISON-GT or Picco EMX-GT engine? Thanks for the help guys. |
Originally Posted by dan_vector
(Post 14365390)
Guys, I've been running the standard serpent clutch on my Cobra GT (setup 2 composite and 2 alu with hard/x-hard springs) and have been having good results with little wear. I'm now considering trying the Buku GT clutch. Looking at their website there are 2 versions one with standard weight shoes and one with lightweight shoes.
Now I understand that standard weight if you are using an off-road engine and lightweight shoes with an onroad engine however which should you use for a specific 5-port GT engine like the Novarossi ISON-GT or Picco EMX-GT engine? Thanks for the help guys. I think the standard and light weight are for different type of engine. I'm using light weight shoe on 5 port GT engine, it works good. I tried the light weight shoe on buggy engine, clutch engage very late and car doesn't want to move, so you need standard shoe on buggy engine. Interesting, this clutch is sequentially engage, the power is more progressive in low traction track. |
Bukupower still exists?
Gents,
can't seem to get a hold of Buku. Called them 3 times in the morning. No ringing, phone seems to be off the grid. Do they still exist? RCpit Box in the uk sells them as well but..... I would like to know whether the Buku clutch is still available and possibly other Companies who sell them as well. https://rcpitbox.myshopify.com/colle...-clutch-system |
Clutch specs for an Xray GTX 8
Hi guys
Can you confirm flywheel diameter I would use for the Xray?? Also from reading this thread I assume you would use the lightweight shoes for on road GT Thanks Jeremy |
Buku clutch with crankcase refill cap
Some pics of the Buku clutch with the refill crankcase cap closed by an O-ring.
You can clearly see the small hole on the edge of the cap. On the other side is a hole as well to squeeze out the old grease. Cap should be sealed on the crankcase with any high temp plastic / metal sealant. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...f2f324c81a.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e5398f8877.jpg |
Originally Posted by wkloppen
(Post 15065328)
Some pics of the Buku clutch with the refill crankcase cap closed by an O-ring.
You can clearly see the small hole on the edge of the cap. On the other side is a hole as well to squeeze out the old grease. Cap should be sealed on the crankcase with any high temp plastic / metal sealant. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...f2f324c81a.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e5398f8877.jpg |
Originally Posted by dan_vector
(Post 15070080)
Looking good. It's a great clutch. Do they allow you to change the clutch in your local rules now?
Well we've started our own GT class accepting all brands using the basic rules of Roar / Ifmar with a restriction on engine, manifold, muffler and tyres.....Same brand, same type. As far as the RTR series from serpent concerned after 1 year of races where nobody from serpent showed up or helped the class develop they are testing the huge caster problem to come to the conclusion it's the expensive tyres who have no grip. The good thing is they finally do something. Lets see what they will bring next year from an organisation and communication point of view. |
Originally Posted by wkloppen
(Post 15070112)
Dan...who do you mean with "they"? Do you mean the Serpent guys who have done everything using their incompetence to screw up this initial GT year?...I reckon you mean them:):)
Well we've started our own GT class accepting all brands using the basic rules of Roar / Ifmar with a restriction on engine, manifold, muffler and tyres.....Same brand, same type. As far as the RTR series from serpent concerned after 1 year of races where nobody from serpent showed up or helped the class develop they are testing the huge caster problem to come to the conclusion it's the expensive tyres who have no grip. The good thing is they finally do something. Lets see what they will bring next year from an organisation and communication point of view. The ROAR/IFMAR/EFRA rules are great. It works very well and we run to the same under the UK BRCA rules. Good news that you've started a class which runs the same so that if you go to any Euro champs race you'll be running at the correct level. In fact with the RTR class you end up changing so many parts due to wear and tear notwithstanding the standard RTR clutch! The Buku will last almost for a lifetime! Actually I think the Serpent 4-shoe clutch 4x yellow with X-Hard springs is ultimately better and faster over a lap it's longevity is no where near the BUKU. |
Installation update > Crankcase caps needed to be removed
Bit of playing around with the IGT8 allow clutch bell with 4 bearings, crankcase cap and Buku clutch. I found out the crankcase cap eats up a fraction too much space on the crank in order to be able to tighten the clutch bell nut without squeezing the bearings. For now I removed the crankcase cap as you can see on the vid with more then enough clutch bell play to shim it back to approx 0.5 mm.
I could do with only 3 clutch bell bearings as most of the GT's are only running 2 I believe. Using the TKO black and blue seal clutch bell bearings this is an option in order to be able to use the crankcase cap.....
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...21e760687c.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...fcb6f74438.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8b605be5e4.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...7ec9915a4f.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...50ce567a3c.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e0ebad7ca7.jpg |
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Originally Posted by wkloppen
(Post 15077950)
Bit of playing around with the IGT8 allow clutch bell with 4 bearings, crankcase cap and Buku clutch. I found out the crankcase cap eats up a fraction too much space on the crank in order to be able to tighten the clutch bell nut without squeezing the bearings. For now I removed the crankcase cap as you can see on the vid with more then enough clutch bell play to shim it back to approx 0.5 mm.
I could do with only 3 clutch bell bearings as most of the GT's are only running 2 I believe. Using the TKO black and blue seal clutch bell bearings this is an option in order to be able to use the crankcase cap.....
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...21e760687c.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...fcb6f74438.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8b605be5e4.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...7ec9915a4f.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...50ce567a3c.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e0ebad7ca7.jpg If you need the cap to get the engine stable then there is something else wrong. It might be the front bearing has an issue or whatever but as I've said before the XRDs are not the most stable of engines anyway. Is that an aluminium end bell? If it is it won't last very long with the buku komposite shoes! |
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@ Dan, a remark on what you mentioned which is true off course,
If you need the cap to get the engine stable then there is something else wrong. It might be the front bearing has an issue or whatever but as I've said before the XRDs are not the most stable of engines anyway. What I noticed with my onroad nitro engines in the 8th class, when I used a similar BUKU solution is the following, My discarded worn nitro engine(picco and nova) which didn`t idle anymore and had erratic tuning problems, after this modification was idling very good and best of all was holding its tune for ever!. Both engine`s had this result. I know its had to do with the front bearing sealing, but both bearings were relatively new and already replaced with an offroad, one rubber sealed. Just sharing |
Are you using a one side seal bearing or a 2 side seal?
Most engine bearings are only sealed at one side so you can try a 2-side sealed bearing. But normally the construction with the groove in the crankcase and crankshaft should build up an hydrolic seal. Problem could be that today's fuels with less oils and also thin oils make the working of the hydrolic seal much worse. In the past we were used to run metal sealded bearings which are open. |
Originally Posted by Roelof
(Post 15078948)
Are you using a one side seal bearing or a 2 side seal?
Most engine bearings are only sealed at one side so you can try a 2-side sealed bearing. But normally the construction with the groove in the crankcase and crankshaft should build up an hydrolic seal. Problem could be that today's fuels with less oils and also thin oils make the working of the hydrolic seal much worse. In the past we were used to run metal sealded bearings which are open. w |
Originally Posted by wkloppen
(Post 15079998)
Guys,...thx for all the expertise! I really appreciated it. The front bearing is a ceramic one from TKO which had 2 seals. I removed the inner one for lubrication purposes but maybe this was not neccessary. I had the crankcase cap on nicely sealed with a high temp sealant but it wasn't to be from crankshat distance point of view. I still could try using only 3 bearings instead of 4 leaving plenty of space to shim the clutch bell. Will try this first and see how it goes. It has to be said, the 4 bearing clutch bell has virtually no radial play and feels smooth as a whistle.
w |
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