I couldnt get him to run it if I tried. LOL. Iam running it on my new setup though. Definently a screamer the two.

just tell him that instead of being in the top three he will always be #1 with some more top end going down the straights.

hi guys... just done a day ago the 1st international HPC truggy race.
i can say this. at 12 tanks, the engine is already a beast. it wheelie my CRT with lots of smoke. i only managed 3rd qualifier and end up DNF due to stock manifold(CRT RTR ) broken. the time i stop i already 2nd. maybe the 1st time bad bug. with that, i still managed 7th place. i tot im sure the last one. main objective achieved : not to be last on my 1st maiden race with CRT and STS D28M.
4 info, the stock carbon clutch done 4 good. my sponsor replaced with blue alum with gold harder spring. the best accelaration ever. have 2 change trigger style. instant power. even with big stock brick pin tire, the jammin still can wheelie. sure the engine is the culprit
to STS, congrats. the best D28M engine for truggy. sad couldn't do the same like racernine sponsor driver, to win on 1st maiden race

and yes, i want the STS inline pipe

for info, my HSN: 2 1/2T LSN: 4T out.
using only 25% Sindewinder. outside temp around 35C. inside head temp +-147C. Blue Alum shoes with Gold hard springs.
i think still in run-in process. lots of smoke. up to now, only 18 tanks.

Can anyone tell me what STS stands for?

I think it stands for, Sh%t to start, or Shameless to start!

I have just broken in my 2nd STS and I will not buy another! I prefer to pay a extra $50 and have a little less power, than to have no reliability when starting..... Ok now you going to tell me to release the glow plug, did that! or how about the old line dont just let the cord go, Was aware of this so I never. Infact some how the spring broke today whilst the car was running, or on the pull that fired it up. I went through 1x set of roto plate gears and 2x pull starts on 1st engine. Now the 2nd engine has been through 2x pull starts and onto 1st roto start. My friend who also just broke in his engine has also broke a string, replaced that to have the spring fail within 1ltr of fuel.

At $35.00NZ a pull start there is no way this engine is cheaper to buy and keep going than the other more expensive engine. My Bro's HPI K4.6 has just gone on and on, and as for pull start, his string has worn through a brass washer... No problems there.

So to sum up, great engine when going, but trying to get it going is just not worth the hassle.

If you guys had warranties on your starters I think you would either
A) Re-designed them to last better. or
B) Gone bankrupt trying to replace faulty parts.

I hope one day you fix this issue so I can once again enjoy a running STS

Its a tight motor. You can brake any motor if its not capable of turning over. A lot of times people dont know the motor is at TDC and its stuck. Yanking on the rope will rip it in half. The obvious tearing of the rope shows that too much force was used to try to get the motor unstuck. You need to heat the motor and loosen the glow-plug , loosening is not going to do much without the heating.

Im now using a pull-start d28m in my new savage-x. No problems so far as im watching what im doing. You also dont want to pull the starter but 6-8inches out , if your pulling it all the way out. Thatll do it.

Also drill based rotostarts will destroy your rotostart. As well, starting a seized motor with a rotostart will also destroy it. Always make sure the flywheel is loose, which lets you know the motor is ready to turn over.

man, i wish Ryan of Racernine is here to answer this, this, whoever u are. i pity u, man.

I am here. I agree with what artificial one has posted. unlike the savage k4 motor the STS has pinch and compression. If all you have ever ran is motors that come in RTR vehicles then you have to adj to the new conditions you find in the STS motors. Motors that are made for and come with RTR vehicles are purposely made with less pinch and compression So the person who buys it which is usually a first timer has a better chance of getting thru breakin with no problems, Some of the RTR motors do run well and last quite awhile if breakin is done right. Anyway back to your problems with the STS.
If you plan on trying to run them some more first find out thier condition
if you have had problems getting them to start,and your blowing up roto and pullstarts. your motor must be very rich and flooding when starting. try adj the HSN to 2-1/2 turns out from closed . preheat your motor and then try to start it. with a pullstart grasp the handle underhanded and move close enough to your truck that when you pull your hand hits you in the stomach before it reaches the end of the rope..

have anyone out there tested this engine??how is the performance compare to novarossi?

yep tons of compression. im so lucky im using starter box with my truggy. and its the same way when using pullstart. i always use the reverse(underhand) grip to pull it. and short fast pull.
as dino said, we built engine for racing thats why it got tons of compression.

any1 here ever use the 28 with JP1/Jp2 pipe?
here we out of stock for the STS pipe. currently using stock HN pipe. thanks.

the JP1 pipe works good with the .28 I havent tried the JP2

thanks on order now, the anodized brown color JP1.

Well I would like to add that I adhere to all that is stated, I am aware that STS starters pull or roto are not to the standard they should be, and I do as mentioned. No one reads advice and ignores it so they can get a bummer buzz at the track. I dont think that the racing engine yarn is good enough either, the bottom line is that some serious work needs to be done to the starter system/s to ensure that STS is around for years to come. If the engine is exceptionally tight then design a exceptionally tough starter. Or offer a warranty as I have had these starters fail time and time again..... and don't tell me it is me, other brands can handle my use, and I was never so gentle with them!