R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Onroad Nitro Engine Zone (https://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-nitro-engine-zone-71/)
-   -   STS .28 pull-start engine (https://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-nitro-engine-zone/59523-sts-28-pull-start-engine.html)

ozpall 01-26-2006 07:59 AM


Originally Posted by jfc_tech
gear up...meaning use bigger CB with the 47T spur or get the new steel spur from HPI. Use higher visc diff fluid 10K or more. and ready yer roll cage or spare engine head. it willy like crazy. the torque is crazy...so be warned! :D

cool thanks, do you have a link for the new steel spur from hpi?
how is your tranny holding up? and shafts?

thanks.

Oscar.

dino.tw 01-26-2006 08:54 AM


Originally Posted by Edgar Millenium
Hi Dino!!

Any new on the 28 that I sent you?? From Porject Zen?

Thanks
Edgar.

If you need a to send you a copy of the email regarding the engine, please let me know

Please mail to me your address and tel. no. asap...
We will start to holiday from 27,Jan. to 5,Feb. for Chinese New Year. I hope I can catch up otherwise you have to wait till 6,Feb...... :tire:

crunch123 01-26-2006 09:02 AM

Hello Dino!! Happy Chinese New Year!!! I was about to buy the 28 today but had trouble finding the blackplate (#280106), would you happen to know where I can pick one up in HK? I was even told by one shop that I had to change the crank to make it a non pull start! Hummmmmmmm

I need a non-pull start version of this to mount on my CRT

Thanks~

dino.tw 01-26-2006 02:39 PM


Originally Posted by crunch123
Hello Dino!! Happy Chinese New Year!!! I was about to buy the 28 today but had trouble finding the blackplate (#280106), would you happen to know where I can pick one up in HK? I was even told by one shop that I had to change the crank to make it a non pull start! Hummmmmmmm

I need a non-pull start version of this to mount on my CRT

Thanks~

Hi crunch,

Happy Chinese New Year!!! 恭喜發財!!!
Please contact with our Hong Kong Distributor:
Hoomark Trading Co.
G/F C, Richview Villa,#20 Fung Fai Terrace,Happy Valley,Hong Kong
Contact : Daisy Kwok
TEL/FAX : (852)2575 1777
e-mail : [email protected]

No need to change the crank,just need a .28 standard backplate(#280106).
X1CRT is very cool,my vehicle is X1CR w/D21T lately :smile:

crunch123 01-26-2006 05:24 PM

Hey Dino, thanks for the info. I'll be contacting them today.

The X1-CR is very cool~~~ I can't wait to get my CRT up and running in the CNY holidays (Let's hope they have the backplate).

Edgar Millenium 01-26-2006 07:29 PM

DINO:

Email Sent wuith my address.

jfc_tech 01-28-2006 01:29 AM

Dino, Happy Chinese New year! May you have a Prosperous 2006 year.
Gong Xi Fa Cai!!

pininfarina 01-30-2006 12:14 AM

恭祝大家新春快乐、身体健康、合家幸福、心想事成!
 
恭祝大家新春快乐、身体健康、合家幸福、心想事成!


http://www.g-ym.com/bbs/UploadFile/2...2571512143.gif

r0x0rz 01-31-2006 06:52 AM

hello n stuff
 
Hi all i am new here but i thought i would post as i have viewed this thread many times now.

I have a sts d28m in my thunder tiger eb4 buggy and all i can say is wow !!
for the cash its by far the best value motor ive ever used and the performance is great too

Since i keep reading about people asking for carb settings i thought i would let you guys know my motor runs at 1.5 turns on hsn 4 turns on lsn i think the settings have a lot to do with alltitude , outside temprature and the glow plug used so the settings given on here should be used as a guide as everyones settings will differ slightly.

anyway i though i would thank everyone who has contrubuted to this thread as it made my life a lot easier when i needed info on settings etc

cheers
r0x

crunch123 01-31-2006 07:08 PM

Hello all!!

Ready to break in this monster soon, so I wanna see what plugs you all are running (pre and post break in). The LHS recommanded the OS 8 plug, a great all around plug they said.

I am in HK and the weather is about +/- 20C (+/- 70F) with 80%-85% humidity (I know....ewwww).

Cheers~

ozpall 01-31-2006 08:53 PM

the hottest to break in i read somewhere here.

r0x0rz 02-04-2006 07:54 AM

Hi
i think the manual states use a hot plug when running very rich settings i used OS A3 plugs and it ran fine

os8 should be ok too though

Doug

tmaxxeater 02-06-2006 02:38 PM

savage with STS .28
 
I have a hopped up savage with a Mach .28 but I want to upgrade to the STS .28. After reading your reports makes me want to order one today. But, can my Savage handle the power? Also what do you reccomend that I super hop up? I am certain I will order one soon. Any help would be apprechated. Thanks guys.

r0x0rz 02-07-2006 09:55 AM

am i the only one with a aftermarket head on my sts .28? i have not read anything on here about anyone swapping there sts cooling head for an aftermarket product

r0x

Car Breaker 02-08-2006 05:00 PM

I got mine today, look great :nod: , but no glow plug :cry:
I order then now, hopefully arrive next weeks

ozpall 02-09-2006 08:28 AM

I got mine yesterday, it looks HUGGGE, its awesome, I can't wait till run this baby.
mine came with no glow plug either but no big deal.

Artificial-I 02-09-2006 09:03 AM

Never had a motor come with a glow-plug. Where do you guys get motors that come with one?

Also every pull-start motor Ive used has given me troubles with the pull-start. From .12's to larger , I always find myself pulling them apart , cleaning them and reassembling. Its kinda just how it goes. Why I now am glad I have a starter box.

I also know someone who builds monster truck starter boxes for t-maxx's , Im sure I could have a chat with him on other vehicles to produce it for.

No more pull-string scars on your hand , thats for sure. As well I have my starter box setup with power-panel and glow-starter attachment. Which has adjustable power. So if motor isnt starting , I turn the dial and the strength of the heat goes up and motor will almost always fire after that.

Great for breaking-in motors and starting troublesome motors. Saves the hands for sure and frustration.

Also those new STS .28 Motors look great! Seems they come with the one-piece heatsink. Looks very nice!

Car Breaker 02-09-2006 09:18 AM


Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Never had a motor come with a glow-plug. Where do you guys get motors that come with one?

Also every pull-start motor Ive used has given me troubles with the pull-start. From .12's to larger , I always find myself pulling them apart , cleaning them and reassembling. Its kinda just how it goes. Why I now am glad I have a starter box.

I also know someone who builds monster truck starter boxes for t-maxx's , Im sure I could have a chat with him on other vehicles to produce it for.

No more pull-string scars on your hand , thats for sure. As well I have my starter box setup with power-panel and glow-starter attachment. Which has adjustable power. So if motor isnt starting , I turn the dial and the strength of the heat goes up and motor will almost always fire after that.

Great for breaking-in motors and starting troublesome motors. Saves the hands for sure and frustration.

Also those new STS .28 Motors look great! Seems they come with the one-piece heatsink. Looks very nice!


My O.S. 18tz, old Novamega, and maybe my Orion .28 come with glow plug :nod: , Am I just lucky?:D


I never have trouble with pull start. I had several pull start engine before non of them break from new until the engine lost all its compression. but many people change their pull start more often then everyweek,

the owner of the LHS I was hang out (now close to switch job) is a master of pull start :lol: he teach me a lot on how to pull, basically it is more about speed thatn how much you pull out. do it fast but never reach the total length of the pull string. to acieve that, you need to know how long the string you have on your pull start and make sure you don't reach that limit.
tuned the engien right and have a healthy glow plug with appropriate temp is important too ( I tend to use hotter plug)
the trick of pull start is "FAST but NOT FAR"
hope that help


regard the sts .28, I wish it is torbo plug, I hate copper shim of standard plug :flaming:

Artificial-I 02-09-2006 09:28 AM

Yeah there are some golden rules on pull-starts. Never pull them all way out. I try to only pull half-way out. Use quick wrist flicks , dont use your whole arm.

I also try more than one way to pull-start a motor. I vary all things , speed , frequency. I sometimes do a slow and steady pull and at compression a quicker flick , after a bunch of hard pulls if its not firing , then speed up the slow and so forth. You gotta listen to the motor. Saves your arm.

Also if you use a handheld glow-start. Make sure its always fresh battery. Rechargables help save money and can always be peaked for first start of the day. Otherwise I find handheld glow-starters a big problem. I switched to the 1.5V Hobby Battery. Its a life saver, lasted me a couple of months and is pretty inexspensive. You can start motors all day , break them in easier and have less frustration if you use this style. I reccomend these 100% over regular hand held.

http://www.hobbico.com/accys/hcap0700.jpg

This will eliminate one of the main causes for a motor not starting, which in return will equal less use and abuse in most cases on the pull-start. When your frustrated , the pull-start takes the abuse and is probably when your going to break it by pulling it to hard or fast.

Horatio 02-09-2006 10:45 AM

1 Attachment(s)
If the one-way starts slipping, it's usually indicative of an O-ring failure in the backplate. Once oil starts leaking through, the one-way will soon foul up again with oil. This a common problem with rotostart/pullstart style back plates.

The solution is to de-grease the one way and replace the O-ring while you're at it.

tmaxxeater 02-10-2006 04:44 AM

smart tecks
 
I knew there was a reason to come to this forum. You guys seem to know what you are talking about. I like to hear all of the advice on the new motors. Soon I will be installing the NEW STS .28 on my SAVAGE. I cant wait, it is like waiting on christmas. I recently purchased new hardned steel spur gear and clutch bell for preperation of the new motor to arrive. I also went from a 2 peice clutch to a 3 peice clutch. Also I was told to tighten the clutch as tight as possible for the sts due to it ripping the clutch pad right out. Any advise on more preperation of this BEAST of a engine will be apprechated. Thanks Guys For the help and the Advise. I look forward to learning more from you guys.

jfc_tech 02-10-2006 06:20 PM


Originally Posted by tmaxxeater
I knew there was a reason to come to this forum. You guys seem to know what you are talking about. I like to hear all of the advice on the new motors. Soon I will be installing the NEW STS .28 on my SAVAGE. I cant wait, it is like waiting on christmas. I recently purchased new hardned steel spur gear and clutch bell for preperation of the new motor to arrive. I also went from a 2 peice clutch to a 3 peice clutch. Also I was told to tighten the clutch as tight as possible for the sts due to it ripping the clutch pad right out. Any advise on more preperation of this BEAST of a engine will be apprechated. Thanks Guys For the help and the Advise. I look forward to learning more from you guys.

GREAT CHOICE!!! :nod: :nod: :nod:
gear up...i mean use bigger CB with the 47 spur. somewhere around 18 CB. it willy at a touch!!! :eek:
As i always say ... the STS .28, High Torgue at Low RPM!!!
the clutch..as tight as possible... if slips...then u can smell the burn out slipper pad and but careful when jumping and landing on full throttle.... :sneaky: :D

ryan6682 02-10-2006 08:15 PM

Guys,
the one way bearing is inside the crankcase on the .28 spraying stuff into the pullcord hole will just get your cord wet. to clean the one way you will need to remove the pullstart and back plate.
try to store your truck with the nose down so fuel and oil will run out of the one way and use some afterrun oil when your done for the day. Also try not to use fuels with high oil content. 12% or less is best.

ryan6682 02-10-2006 08:47 PM


Originally Posted by r0x0rz
am i the only one with a aftermarket head on my sts .28? i have not read anything on here about anyone swapping there sts cooling head for an aftermarket product

r0x

Nova makes an aftermarket head for the sts.28 with the new one piece design. When we started racing ours we modified the outer edge of the head button and used a Nova head for the xtm24.7 motor as there was nonw available. They do help control temps when running under extreme conditions.
and look good as well. although I love the look of the new one peice sts head

Artificial-I 02-10-2006 09:04 PM


Originally Posted by ryan6682
Guys,
the one way bearing is inside the crankcase on the .28 spraying stuff into the pullcord hole will just get your cord wet. to clean the one way you will need to remove the pullstart and back plate.
try to store your truck with the nose down so fuel and oil will run out of the one way and use some afterrun oil when your done for the day. Also try not to use fuels with high oil content. 12% or less is best.

I wasnt aware of that. Good to know. Otherwise it does work for most pull-starts Ive dealt with :blush:

tmaxxeater 02-11-2006 04:50 AM

thanks
 
Thanks for the advise I hope that the now motor will be here today. I went with the hardned steel spur gears and I believe that they was 16/48. I hope the bell gear isint to low. Oh well, I will just ride around on a wheelie. I also am designing a fan to blow on the motor at all times. The fan I am installing will be on a bracket that I made run off of a pulley system from the motor to the fan. The louisiana air is always hot so I figured that I might keep it a little cooler this way. Have any of you ever tried a pulley fan on your truck? I hope that it works.

Also is there any way to add photos of my machine on here. I would like to show you guys my truck and the set up I have. Mabey if you see the truck set up you can give me more advise. I do not race it, I just like to keep the neighbors mad :flaming: I live in the country and Evintually I would like to build me a track behind my archery shop. I love the monster trucks. I jump everything in sight and move it if it gets in the way. This is the 2nd truck that I have owned and it makes an ass out of the t-maxx. Sorry maxx guys.. The savage is a brutal machine. later on I would like to turn everything on my truck to aluminum. My wife is ready to kill me now so I will have to do it slowley. But mabey my buddy Mike can help me out in the future with my mods.

Again thanks for the help guys and keep it comeing. I have no idea what most of your abbrevations are so I have to figure that out. such as the upper and lower carb settings.. What the heck is that?? And the shims?? What is that?? or CB?? In time I will learn, just be patient with me For I am like a little kid in a candy store. :cry:

ryan6682 02-11-2006 05:29 AM


Originally Posted by tmaxxeater
Again thanks for the help guys and keep it comeing. I have no idea what most of your abbrevations are so I have to figure that out. such as the upper and lower carb settings.. What the heck is that?? And the shims?? What is that?? or CB?? In time I will learn, just be patient with me For I am like a little kid in a candy store. :cry:

upper carb settings or the HSN (high speed needle) used to tune your motor from about 1/4 throttle on up to full throttle the needle right next to the fuel inlet on your carb. always tune this needle first

Lower carb settings or the LSN(low speed needle) used to tune the engine for idle and take off power so when you punch it from a stand still it takes off instead of bogging down. located in the carb barrell (the piece that slides back and forth) always tune this needle last


shims are whats under cooling head (think of them as head gaskets like on a car)

cb = clutch bell

tmaxxeater 02-11-2006 12:05 PM

thanks
 
Thanks ryan for the help again. I was hopeing for the motor to come in today (saturday) but no motor. So now I will have to wait till the week day and not have time to set it up. When it rains it poors around here. IT is supposed to rain all next week, :( Mabey I can set it up in my shop. I look forward to getting the new motor... :tire:

ozpall 02-11-2006 02:24 PM

So i'm about to start breaking in my new 28, the instruction say that for 20% nitro I should run 3mm shims, my engine came with a silver one and cooper shim already installed, the cooper one is thinner than the silver one. is that 3mm or more? less? should i just leave it alone?
can someone please hell me here please.

also I wanted to say thanks to racernine for the help. those guys are pretty good at helping people out.
I got that SH pipe.

thanks

ryan6682 02-11-2006 04:24 PM

Silver shim is 3mm and copper is 1mm you can run 30% with these shims. if you want you can take the copper out after breakin to run 20%.

STS keeps changing what comes with the motors. first ones came with all three shims for a total of 6mm then they changed to just the sliver 3mm now they put .4mm worth of shims in . I think they readded the shim to make breakin easier on you and the pullstart. :sneaky:

ryan6682 02-11-2006 05:09 PM


Originally Posted by Car Breaker
regard the sts .28, I wish it is torbo plug, I hate copper shim of standard plug :flaming:

Hey Dino, how about that. a turbo onepiece head, with maybe six ports instead of three. I know you think the 3 port is enough but your competetion are all releasing multiport .28's

A .28TH (turbo head) I can see it now. :cool: :cool: :sneaky:

ozpall 02-12-2006 08:00 AM


Originally Posted by ryan6682
Silver shim is 3mm and copper is 1mm you can run 30% with these shims. if you want you can take the copper out after breakin to run 20%.

STS keeps changing what comes with the motors. first ones came with all three shims for a total of 6mm then they changed to just the sliver 3mm now they put .4mm worth of shims in . I think they readded the shim to make breakin easier on you and the pullstart. :sneaky:


thanks.


Oscar.

8man 02-13-2006 01:49 PM

ryan6682: That one piece head is sweet! Saw it on your site.
Got any more pics of it? Sure is cheap enough. Thanks!

ryan6682 02-13-2006 04:35 PM

sorry man i dont have any other pics of it.

ozpall 02-13-2006 06:31 PM

ok I started it the breakin process and so far so good except that i burned 3 spur gears, the cb is melting the spur gear teeth, why is my cb getting so hot?
other wise i let it run for about 2 mins and temps are around 210+/- idles good, stays running for the whole time.

ryan6682 02-13-2006 08:12 PM

It melts them while just sitting there idling???

8man 02-13-2006 08:20 PM

Are the clutch shoes rubbing at idle?
Are the bearings in the bell o.k.?
Is the bell improperly shimmed? Too tight?

ozpall 02-13-2006 08:26 PM


Originally Posted by ryan6682
It melts them while just sitting there idling???

yes while idling.
i check the shoes and the bearings and everything seems good. no dust or nothing.

ryan6682 02-14-2006 05:06 AM

I have never heard of this before, there is no way the motor can be doing it.something has to be rubbing on the cb to get it hot. wether its shoes or bearings , something right there is causing it

ozpall 02-14-2006 07:53 AM

i ordered a new cb shoes bearings and springs, I'm going to replace it to see.
i will post result as soon as i get the parts and get it done.
thanks.


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:23 AM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.