Performance fuel ?
#16
Originally posted by theRED5
I've been involved in RC modeling for my entire life, my Dad flew controlline planes and RC planes when I was just a kid. When Byron's Fuel first came out I was flying 4 stroke airplanes, and they were the first, as I recall that made 4 stroke fuel. For the last 5 or 6 years racing cars, I've used Byron's fuel and never had an engine blow up because of fuel. I've always liked that they use "Klotz" brand racing oil, and find that the engines are very clean inside the combustion areas.
But lately, I've been wondering, if your fuel leaves deposits, aren't they increasing the compression ratio, boosting the performance of the engine?
I've been involved in RC modeling for my entire life, my Dad flew controlline planes and RC planes when I was just a kid. When Byron's Fuel first came out I was flying 4 stroke airplanes, and they were the first, as I recall that made 4 stroke fuel. For the last 5 or 6 years racing cars, I've used Byron's fuel and never had an engine blow up because of fuel. I've always liked that they use "Klotz" brand racing oil, and find that the engines are very clean inside the combustion areas.
But lately, I've been wondering, if your fuel leaves deposits, aren't they increasing the compression ratio, boosting the performance of the engine?
About build up of varnish on botton and top of piston-vernish is engine killer. It works as insulation and don't let survaces to cool down. They have to be removed as they start build up.
Top of the piston and combustion surface on botton must to become dark brown on new engine after 8-10 tanks and it should be not a build up, it just very very tiny layer. From most of the fuel I did indicated real build up and after I have tryed O'Donnell I don't have this any more, this is why I don't clean my motors-simple no need it.
It is very easy to see the difference between "good" or "bad" brown build up-"good" is shiny and "bad" is not. "Bad" build up will come out easy with just by trying wipe it off by finger and "good build" up will not come out at all, unless sand paper used.
Edward
Edward
#17
so any brands better than o'donnel ?
don't get wrong impression
I'm using o'donnel 25% and I'm happy to use it because it's crystal clear and it doesn't give me sticky or gummy leftover. The smell of the smoke is okay too, it doesn't stink my nose and eyes.
don't get wrong impression
I'm using o'donnel 25% and I'm happy to use it because it's crystal clear and it doesn't give me sticky or gummy leftover. The smell of the smoke is okay too, it doesn't stink my nose and eyes.
#18
Originally posted by asw7576
so any brands better than o'donnel ?
don't get wrong impression
I'm using o'donnel 25% and I'm happy to use it because it's crystal clear and it doesn't give me sticky or gummy leftover. The smell of the smoke is okay too, it doesn't stink my nose and eyes.
so any brands better than o'donnel ?
don't get wrong impression
I'm using o'donnel 25% and I'm happy to use it because it's crystal clear and it doesn't give me sticky or gummy leftover. The smell of the smoke is okay too, it doesn't stink my nose and eyes.
It doesn't build up any warnish, it doesn't contain any water ( like many other brands do)
Edward
#19
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 12
From: Michigan
It doesn't happen to my motor what you described O ' donnell did to yours'. The main bearing and crankshaft in my motor rusted badly while on this stuff after two weeks. It was a brand new motor. This stuff runs real hot, motor bogs down after a couple of tanks. It sounded rich with lots of smoke but I am still burning plugs.My motor will quit for unknown reasons. Tuning most of the time. Problem went away after switching fuel.
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
I have been involve in this hobby since 1976 (13 years old) and most of my life was running FAI fuel (80% methanol and 20% castor). Then I come to RCcars and here I tryed different types. The best fuel is defenetly O'Donnell. It doesn't leav any residue nowhere-cranckshafts are always clean and no rust or other spots, even if I leave engine without washing for more then month-I never clean my engines.
About build up of varnish on botton and top of piston-vernish is engine killer. It works as insulation and don't let survaces to cool down. They have to be removed as they start build up.
Top of the piston and combustion surface on botton must to become dark brown on new engine after 8-10 tanks and it should be not a build up, it just very very tiny layer. From most of the fuel I did indicated real build up and after I have tryed O'Donnell I don't have this any more, this is why I don't clean my motors-simple no need it.
It is very easy to see the difference between "good" or "bad" brown build up-"good" is shiny and "bad" is not. "Bad" build up will come out easy with just by trying wipe it off by finger and "good build" up will not come out at all, unless sand paper used.
Edward
Edward
I have been involve in this hobby since 1976 (13 years old) and most of my life was running FAI fuel (80% methanol and 20% castor). Then I come to RCcars and here I tryed different types. The best fuel is defenetly O'Donnell. It doesn't leav any residue nowhere-cranckshafts are always clean and no rust or other spots, even if I leave engine without washing for more then month-I never clean my engines.
About build up of varnish on botton and top of piston-vernish is engine killer. It works as insulation and don't let survaces to cool down. They have to be removed as they start build up.
Top of the piston and combustion surface on botton must to become dark brown on new engine after 8-10 tanks and it should be not a build up, it just very very tiny layer. From most of the fuel I did indicated real build up and after I have tryed O'Donnell I don't have this any more, this is why I don't clean my motors-simple no need it.
It is very easy to see the difference between "good" or "bad" brown build up-"good" is shiny and "bad" is not. "Bad" build up will come out easy with just by trying wipe it off by finger and "good build" up will not come out at all, unless sand paper used.
Edward
Edward
#20
Originally posted by baldwinn
It sounded rich with lots of smoke but I am still burning plugs.
It sounded rich with lots of smoke but I am still burning plugs.
#21
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 12
From: Michigan
Originally posted by daniz24
Strange. I believe O'Donnell only produces a slight amount of smokes even when the engine tuning is still rich...
Strange. I believe O'Donnell only produces a slight amount of smokes even when the engine tuning is still rich...
#22
Originally posted by baldwinn
It doesn't happen to my motor what you described O ' donnell did to yours'. The main bearing and crankshaft in my motor rusted badly while on this stuff after two weeks. It was a brand new motor. This stuff runs real hot, motor bogs down after a couple of tanks. It sounded rich with lots of smoke but I am still burning plugs.My motor will quit for unknown reasons. Tuning most of the time. Problem went away after switching fuel.
It doesn't happen to my motor what you described O ' donnell did to yours'. The main bearing and crankshaft in my motor rusted badly while on this stuff after two weeks. It was a brand new motor. This stuff runs real hot, motor bogs down after a couple of tanks. It sounded rich with lots of smoke but I am still burning plugs.My motor will quit for unknown reasons. Tuning most of the time. Problem went away after switching fuel.
About rust-it is totaly strange. Are you sure you use fairely new fuel which was propoerly closed and never absorbs moister?
Edward
#23
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 12
From: Michigan
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
Many times burned glow plugs doesn't mean too lean. In most cases t will need adjust combustion chamber volume. By switching fuel it might be different nitro content and it is reason why it stops byrning glow plugs-might be less nitro and it is OK with little too small combustion volume.
About rust-it is totaly strange. Are you sure you use fairely new fuel which was propoerly closed and never absorbs moister?
Edward
Many times burned glow plugs doesn't mean too lean. In most cases t will need adjust combustion chamber volume. By switching fuel it might be different nitro content and it is reason why it stops byrning glow plugs-might be less nitro and it is OK with little too small combustion volume.
About rust-it is totaly strange. Are you sure you use fairely new fuel which was propoerly closed and never absorbs moister?
Edward
#24
Originally posted by baldwinn
Edward, nitro content was the same. Motor was new , I picked up a new gallon from the same shop, can't figure how long it was lying there.
Edward, nitro content was the same. Motor was new , I picked up a new gallon from the same shop, can't figure how long it was lying there.
Is that black or white label? I use black type label.
Edward
#25
try to buy your fuel from a shop where inventory does not sit on the shelf. even if it is still sealed, it can go bad after a while. temperature changes will cause mositure to develop on the inside of the container (just like a gas tank). I recommend a few drops of marvel mystery oil down the carb barrel and in the head- then bump it over quick on the starter to disperse the oil in the crankcase.
#26
Originally posted by daniz24
Anyone experience the Runner Time or Cosmo RC Fuel?
Anyone experience the Runner Time or Cosmo RC Fuel?
#27
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
We only run our engines on Runner Time now.
We only run our engines on Runner Time now.
BTW, I think Cosmo RC fuel is only available in HK and mainly in Japan if I'm not mistaken... Good stuff apparently.
#28
Is it okay to switch fuel ? my LHS don't have o'donnel fuel at the moment and I'm running low...... I don't want to borrow fuel from him. Is it okay if I switch to Tornado fuel ? Both are rated 25% nitro. Any precaution ?
#29
Hey all, You are all talking about good fuel and I am surprised that no one has mentioned Wildcat fuels. In my opinion the best.
I have been running 30% in an RB x-12 Rody for probably 60 races. The engine always starts instantly NEVER flames out and has been very fast. I have only gone through 3 glow plugs in a year and a half.(MC-59) favorite none turbo glow plug. Until last week I had never taken the engine apart, and I let it sit for 5 months last winter with no after run oil and it has been sitting this year since October. No rust and only had residue on top of piston. It will take something very drastic to happen for me to switch fuels. I really enjoy not having to worry about my engine.
I have been running 30% in an RB x-12 Rody for probably 60 races. The engine always starts instantly NEVER flames out and has been very fast. I have only gone through 3 glow plugs in a year and a half.(MC-59) favorite none turbo glow plug. Until last week I had never taken the engine apart, and I let it sit for 5 months last winter with no after run oil and it has been sitting this year since October. No rust and only had residue on top of piston. It will take something very drastic to happen for me to switch fuels. I really enjoy not having to worry about my engine.
#30
Originally posted by tenderfoot57
Hey all, You are all talking about good fuel and I am surprised that no one has mentioned Wildcat fuels.
Hey all, You are all talking about good fuel and I am surprised that no one has mentioned Wildcat fuels.



