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Nitro TC3 Engine Replacement HELP
So, I'd like to bring my Team Associated Nitro TC3 back from the dead. The only issue is that the engine has seen better days. What is a good "bang for the buck" direct engine replacement for my car? I'm looking for an engine that requires little to no modifications to the engine or car. I've always heard of having to cut the shafts or the engines in or for them to work in certian applications. What about issues with the clutch and all that? Thanks in advanced.
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Originally Posted by 1fastmach1
(Post 10110772)
So, I'd like to bring my Team Associated Nitro TC3 back from the dead. The only issue is that the engine has seen better days. What is a good "bang for the buck" direct engine replacement for my car? I'm looking for an engine that requires little to no modifications to the engine or car. I've always heard of having to cut the shafts or the engines in or for them to work in certian applications. What about issues with the clutch and all that? Thanks in advanced.
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R
(Post 10110786)
I just bought a OFNA Picco .12 on eBay for one of mine. There is a guy on there selling them for $70. I bought the 5 port but the ones he has now are the 51121 3 port, SG crank, slide carb. It is a direct drop in, runs great! Not a racing engine but for $70 it is plenty fast for bashing and definitely bang for the buck!
What about the flywheel, clutch, and the rest of the throttle and breaking linkage? |
Originally Posted by 1fastmach1
(Post 10110790)
First, thanks for the quick response...
What about the flywheel, clutch, and the rest of the throttle and breaking linkage? You sill use the same linkage just change the setup on the servo horn. The manual shows exactly how to do it. Oh and one more thing the Picco has a larger carb opening so I needed a bigger air filter. I used one from a Losi LST and it worked dandy. You could also use a Traxxas TMaxx air filter or something similar. |
Originally Posted by Jake C6R
(Post 10110832)
Just swap everything over from the old engine to the new one. Use the same flywheel and clutch. I think I had to use a couple more clutch shims but other than that everything swapped over. The only thing I had to change was the linkage because the AE .12 had a rotary carb and the new engine has a slide carb.
You sill use the same linkage just change the setup on the servo horn. The manual shows exactly how to do it. Oh and one more thing the Picco has a larger carb opening so I needed a bigger air filter. I used one from a Losi LST and it worked dandy. You could also use a Traxxas TMaxx air filter or something similar. osengines.com/engines/osmg2105.html |
That .18 is a nice engine as well, though I would want a non-pullstart since I use a starter box. I don't know how everything holds up with the power of a .18.
I got to thinking if you are replacing a stock motor then you probably have a side exhaust? Because the Picco I told you about it a rear exhaust and if you don't have one you will need a new manifold, springs and pipe. Are you looking for a side exhaust or rear? Looks like that OS .18 is a rear exhaust also. |
Originally Posted by Jake C6R
(Post 10111709)
That .18 is a nice engine as well, though I would want a non-pullstart since I use a starter box. I don't know how everything holds up with the power of a .18.
I got to thinking if you are replacing a stock motor then you probably have a side exhaust? Because the Picco I told you about it a rear exhaust and if you don't have one you will need a new manifold, springs and pipe. Are you looking for a side exhaust or rear? Looks like that OS .18 is a rear exhaust also. |
With the rear exhaust it is held in place by a spring that wraps around the crankcase. On this one I am using a AE Factory Team rear exhaust. I also ordered a "generic" rear exhaust off eBay from a guy in the UK for another engine I have. He lists it as a Associated NTC3 Shiny Inline Rear Exhaust Pipe Manifold. I paid about $15 so I figure why not give it a shot, it comes with the manifold, pipe, spring and gaskets! Have not received it yet but I didn't want to spend the $$$ for another Factory Team setup.
I took some pictures for you so you can see the setup I am taking about, hope this helps you. http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...ccoNTC3001.jpg http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...ccoNTC3003.jpg http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...ccoNTC3002.jpg |
Originally Posted by Jake C6R
(Post 10112250)
With the rear exhaust it is held in place by a spring that wraps around the crankcase. On this one I am using a AE Factory Team rear exhaust. I also ordered a "generic" rear exhaust off eBay from a guy in the UK for another engine I have. He lists it as a Associated NTC3 Shiny Inline Rear Exhaust Pipe Manifold. I paid about $15 so I figure why not give it a shot, it comes with the manifold, pipe, spring and gaskets! Have not received it yet but I didn't want to spend the $$$ for another Factory Team setup.
I took some pictures for you so you can see the setup I am taking about, hope this helps you. |
Originally Posted by 1fastmach1
(Post 10112854)
I gotcha. The exhaust manifold in the picture isn't being held to the engine with the 2 screws like the stock manifold on the stock engine? I like all the blue aluminum parts. I see yours has the 2 speed gears. I'm definitely wanting to add that to my car. I suppose that the standard crack length allows you to have either the one or two speed system on it? Where do you get the majority of your parts at anyway? I have a local shop here where I'm at but they stock tons of crap for train sets. They don't have many rc vehicles or accessories on the shelves. Of course they can order most of what anyone would want but he overcharges on everything. Besides, the guy that runs it is a total jack wagon.
Most of the parts I either got via fleabay, my LHS or by purchasing a lots of spare parts along with used cars. The cool thing about NTC3's is that they have been around over 10 years and are not state of the art, so people have lots of parts and/or cars that they want to get rid of cheap. Since I use mine for bashing I don't need the fastest, best handling car that is out there. They are plenty fast and easy to work on, and parts are easy to find. And yes the two speed kit fits on the standard crank, it comes with all the parts you need to change it over. Much more fun with the two speed plus love the sound when it shifts! |
Originally Posted by Jake C6R
(Post 10113237)
No, the manifold is held on by the spring you can see wrapped around the crankcase. Just make sure you use 1/10 springs, the 1/8 are too long.
Most of the parts I either got via fleabay, my LHS or by purchasing a lots of spare parts along with used cars. The cool thing about NTC3's is that they have been around over 10 years and are not state of the art, so people have lots of parts and/or cars that they want to get rid of cheap. Since I use mine for bashing I don't need the fastest, best handling car that is out there. They are plenty fast and easy to work on, and parts are easy to find. And yes the two speed kit fits on the standard crank, it comes with all the parts you need to change it over. Much more fun with the two speed plus love the sound when it shifts! |
Originally Posted by 1fastmach1
(Post 10115263)
Good deal. I guess I'll order the engine and the exhaust system and get it all ready for a nice "warmer" day. I don't race mine or anything obviously, I just fool with it to pass the time. It's been laying in my closet for a couple years untouched. Ordered some new wheels and tires for it along with a new HPI body to go on it. It should be good to go in a couple weeks. You say they aren't state of the art anymore. What are some of the nice touring cars out these days? It was a beast when I bought it.
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R
(Post 10126386)
Good question, I don't even know what the latest and greatest is, I am sure there is a lot of debate on that! The NTC3 is still a great car for bashing in my opinion!
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More power
Originally Posted by Jake C6R
(Post 10110786)
I just bought a OFNA Picco .12 on eBay for one of mine. There is a guy on there selling them for $70. I bought the 5 port but the ones he has now are the 51121 3 port, SG crank, slide carb. It is a direct drop in, runs great! Not a racing engine but for $70 it is plenty fast for bashing and definitely bang for the buck!
I put a traxxes down 3.3 with a r.b.inovations superchager on my tc3 man I tell you what it has more power than gears to hold it on the road , I will post pics on my home page require no modifications at all fits perfectly...great up grade for a good toy . |
The RB Innovations supercharger doesn’t work.
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An Abmods .12 racing engine or Murnan modified .12 will be your best bet with a 19t(first gear) dynotech pinion(25t second gear)....You'll leave the new cars in the dust...
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Originally Posted by SlowLST2
(Post 15244762)
The RB Innovations supercharger doesn’t work.
My recent adventure with increasing the exhaust timing on a crappy engine has given me reason to consider, what if the RB Innovations "supercharger" generates just enough extra pressure in the intake to have a similar effect as mildly increasing the intake and exhaust timing? As a general rule, our little nitro engines don't get anywhere near their metallurgical limits (except for the occasional defective part, anyway), because nobody wants to get a reputation for making engines that explode during the A-main. While our little nitro engines don't have RPM limiters like full-size engines have, they are still effectively RPM-limited by their ability to suck in fresh air and fuel and push out exhaust. Since our little engines are essentially suffocating at high RPM, slightly better intake airflow would produce slightly higher pressure in the bottom of the crankcase at high RPM, enabling the transfer ports to scavenge the combustion chamber slightly more thoroughly. (I'm repeating the word "slightly" over and over on purpose.) So, even though there's no way the "supercharger" could actually pack more air and fuel into the combustion chamber, and even though any extra fuel that made it into the engine would be wasted straight out the exhaust, the "supercharger" might make a crappy engine run a little less crappy. If it works the way I suggested, it would still be a ham-fisted alternative to actually learning how a valveless 2-stroke engine works and making adjustments correctly, but it would at least be more than a placebo effect. |
Calculate how much liter air is going through the engine per minute at full speed, thats about 40 liter air per minute.
The turbo is a closed system so all air must be provide by the air pump, is that little thing capable of blowing more than 40 liter per minute? |
At 35,000rpm it blows enough air to make the hair in your nose wiggle a little bit. I have one that a friend gave to me. It’s poorly manufactured, worse tolerances, and the main shaft is only supported by a single ball bearing. It’s a quack hop-up.
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Originally Posted by Roelof
(Post 15244875)
Calculate how much liter air is going through the engine per minute at full speed, thats about 40 liter air per minute.
The turbo is a closed system so all air must be provide by the air pump, is that little thing capable of blowing more than 40 liter per minute? Again, I'm not saying the RB "supercharger" is actually pressurizing the engine. There is no way it could do that. But it might reduce the vacuum in the intake a little bit at high RPM, and a slight improvement in airflow would translate to a small but noticeable increase in power, especially in an engine with mild timing and a carburetor that is too narrow. The TRX 3.3 does indeed have a carburetor that is too narrow. People have been fitting TRX 3.3 engines with wider carburetors from the Losi 3.4 for years. |
Originally Posted by SlowLST2
(Post 15244887)
At 35,000rpm it blows enough air to make the hair in your nose wiggle a little bit. I have one that a friend gave to me. It’s poorly manufactured, worse tolerances, and the main shaft is only supported by a single ball bearing. It’s a quack hop-up.
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