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Old 06-30-2004, 11:08 AM   #76
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Default Re: Re: Re: gear ratio

Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
Do you think 6.95 is too tall for 1st gear? Thanks!
Tall? sorry is it bigger or smaller ratio?

To me,I love smaller 1st ratio and 2nd ratio. For the smaller 1st,I can open the throttle before apex and my car will not too sensitive. And I usual setup the 2-speed system very easy to jump. When I full throttle the 2-speed system should jump soon. You have to control the throttle also 2-speed system yourself. When it should start 2nd gear you can control by your finger,not just wait the car's speed up. So my car is "MT" but yours is "AT",who faster? It is good when you need ballistic sprint. But you need to adapt it.

There are only two corners I have to full close the throttle in silverstone. The other corners I usual half-close the throttle then full throttle to pass the apex. Of course that is 1/8 running style,but I believe a well setting 1/10 can do so,too. So I will not use bigger than 7.0:1 ratio at that track. Sometime you feel it punchy but it dosen't mean your car has speed.
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:24 AM   #77
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By the way,I'm a long-winded guy. Sometime you ask me one question about R/C but I will give you ten answers. Maybe those answers even do not concern to your question. It usual happen to me. I'm sorry,buddy.
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:52 AM   #78
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Dino, I appreciate your thoughtful answer to my question.

By the way, taller=smaller FDR number. For example, a FDR of 6.95 is taller than 7.28. On the other hand, 7.28 is shorter than 6.95.

Coming from racing electric, gear ratio is one of the most important tuning parameters. With a high bite track, you generally want to gear as tall as possible since you can keep the corner speed. However, you do risk burning your motor if you gear too tall. I don't know if and how this applies to nitro engines. They seems to have so much power I shouldn't have to worry about overgearing? or should I? This is why I asked the question.

Yes, the lap time will tell what works better, but there is so many other varibles from one run to the next (tire size, temperature, traction) I can't be certain if it's this or that.

I will have to try to keep my hand on the throttle more. But this car rolls so darn free that I feel it will never slow down in time to make the turn unless I apply brake.
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Old 06-30-2004, 12:39 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
Dino, I appreciate your thoughtful answer to my question.

By the way, taller=smaller FDR number. For example, a FDR of 6.95 is taller than 7.28. On the other hand, 7.28 is shorter than 6.95.

Coming from racing electric, gear ratio is one of the most important tuning parameters. With a high bite track, you generally want to gear as tall as possible since you can keep the corner speed. However, you do risk burning your motor if you gear too tall. I don't know if and how this applies to nitro engines. They seems to have so much power I shouldn't have to worry about overgearing? or should I? This is why I asked the question.

Yes, the lap time will tell what works better, but there is so many other varibles from one run to the next (tire size, temperature, traction) I can't be certain if it's this or that.

I will have to try to keep my hand on the throttle more. But this car rolls so darn free that I feel it will never slow down in time to make the turn unless I apply brake.
To the nitro car it just opposite to EP. If your 2nd gear is too short,your engine may be burnt when your tyres are too small. It usual happen on Japanese kits or Taiwanese kits. When your engine over-rev,it is a serious damage to any moving part. Most stock gear is design for brand new tyres. The new tyre diameter is about 64mm or so. But when you use less than 60mm tyres your engine will work mare hard. So it also concern to foam-tyre characteristic is different to rubber tyre.

We have to record the wearing speed to any track. Sometime it is 1mm/10mins or so. Before the final start,we have to choice the right size of tyres and suitable drive high. You have to know what size tyre that your car is the easiest to drive. Big tyre has better grip but small tyre more easy to control. Also you have to know the overdrive change ratio to your front & rear tyres. The rear tyres usual wear more fast. So this parameter is also very important to long time final.

Then the grip change condition to this track. The surface temperature more high the grip more less. And the track usual has less grip on the morning. So use softer tyres on morning and noon but harder tyre on evening. Some track has huge different grip on morning and evening. That is what expert care about first if he first time be the track.

With the right tyres you are 80% to the way.
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Old 06-30-2004, 01:04 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
I will have to try to keep my hand on the throttle more. But this car rolls so darn free that I feel it will never slow down in time to make the turn unless I apply brake.
Yea~~That is the shaft car's characteristic. You need heavy brake to mid-high speed corner if you don't want to hit the wall. So you have to hold the shaft kit's advantage; ballistic mid-speed acceleration. Advance the braking point and also the on-power point to every corner. Slow in fast out. That is why I wanted you try #10,000 rear diff oil because you can't lose rear grip when you leave corner. This part is what shaft kit's advantage. If you can full open the throttle when you leave corner but your car still stable, watch out those belt kits. Don't hit them.....
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:46 PM   #81
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i'd go for the 7.29/5.0 if your engine can rev up.
u need alot of acceleration in the infield...just make sure there's no time gap in your 1st/2nd shifting. Also make sure you have enough speed in the straightaway and power brake.
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Old 07-01-2004, 12:04 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally posted by formosa008
i'd go for the 7.29/5.0 if your engine can rev up.
u need alot of acceleration in the infield...just make sure there's no time gap in your 1st/2nd shifting. Also make sure you have enough speed in the straightaway and power brake.
Power brake? Do you mean drag brake?
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Old 07-01-2004, 12:07 AM   #83
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I mean you need to brake hard before entering the corner
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Old 07-01-2004, 12:33 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally posted by formosa008
I mean you need to brake hard before entering the corner
That might be hard to do being that I am running a one-way in front...
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Old 07-01-2004, 12:43 AM   #85
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Hi Dino,

Excuse me for this beginner question.

When you guys say taller, are you referring to the pinion gear being smaller or bigger or is it the spur gear being smaller or bigger?

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally posted by dino.tw
To the nitro car it just opposite to EP. If your 2nd gear is too short,your engine may be burnt when your tyres are too small. It usual happen on Japanese kits or Taiwanese kits. When your engine over-rev,it is a serious damage to any moving part. Most stock gear is design for brand new tyres. The new tyre diameter is about 64mm or so. But when you use less than 60mm tyres your engine will work mare hard. So it also concern to foam-tyre characteristic is different to rubber tyre.

We have to record the wearing speed to any track. Sometime it is 1mm/10mins or so. Before the final start,we have to choice the right size of tyres and suitable drive high. You have to know what size tyre that your car is the easiest to drive. Big tyre has better grip but small tyre more easy to control. Also you have to know the overdrive change ratio to your front & rear tyres. The rear tyres usual wear more fast. So this parameter is also very important to long time final.

Then the grip change condition to this track. The surface temperature more high the grip more less. And the track usual has less grip on the morning. So use softer tyres on morning and noon but harder tyre on evening. Some track has huge different grip on morning and evening. That is what expert care about first if he first time be the track.

With the right tyres you are 80% to the way.
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Old 07-01-2004, 12:45 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally posted by f2000racer
Hi Dino,

Excuse me for this beginner question.

When you guys say taller, are you referring to the pinion gear being smaller or bigger or is it the spur gear being smaller or bigger?

Thanks.
Since I am the one who said taller initially, I will answer this question. taller = bigger pinion and/or smaller spur gear.
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Old 07-01-2004, 01:16 AM   #87
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if your car spins out when your wheels are going straight...there should be a problem with it,
when braking with one-way you actually tap the brake instead of holding the brake
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Old 07-01-2004, 01:33 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally posted by formosa008
if your car spins out when your wheels are going straight...there should be a problem with it,
when braking with one-way you actually tap the brake instead of holding the brake
I know. And the key phrase here is "when going straight." Perhaps I should just get a front diff for silverstone.
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Old 07-01-2004, 04:26 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally posted by formosa008
i'd go for the 7.29/5.0 if your engine can rev up.
u need alot of acceleration in the infield...just make sure there's no time gap in your 1st/2nd shifting. Also make sure you have enough speed in the straightaway and power brake.
Howard haha,

If you play at Lunging or Dashi,you do need 7.29 1st to get a lot of acceleration in the infield. But if this sunday Jeffery join the silverstone cup,you still suggest the same idea at such a width open track?



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Old 07-01-2004, 09:21 AM   #90
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