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Old 05-13-2004, 09:48 AM   #1
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i have a rb .12 w/p/s in my 4tec it's impossible to get tuned right (at least for me) it'll run great for 5-10 min then if i open it up it bogs and dies ......any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 05-13-2004, 02:25 PM   #2
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Default Re: rb .12 concept

Quote:
Originally posted by tecspeed
i have a rb .12 w/p/s in my 4tec it's impossible to get tuned right (at least for me) it'll run great for 5-10 min then if i open it up it bogs and dies ......any help would be greatly appreciated
First, go back to the original factory needle setting. (find them at RB's website)

Then, tune from there
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Old 05-14-2004, 04:30 PM   #3
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Definately check the factory settings, but what are you set at right now. It sounds like you are too lean on the high speed needle and the engine is slowly overheating.

Have you done the spit test on the head. Does it sizzle and slowly evaporate, or vaporise immediately( a sign it is too lean)?
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Old 05-15-2004, 10:30 PM   #4
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Default rb .12

went back to factory will give it a run on monday wifey has me on rc punishment this weekend ........thanks for the help everyone
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Old 05-16-2004, 08:13 PM   #5
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Default Re: rb .12

Quote:
Originally posted by tecspeed
went back to factory will give it a run on monday wifey has me on rc punishment this weekend ........thanks for the help everyone
RC Punishement, darn that is harsh...maybe you could take her expensive wedding ring away for a few days
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Old 05-24-2004, 12:54 PM   #6
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Some times when it bogs, it means it is rich and the fuel is backing itself up too much. Best thing is to go back to factory settings like others have mentioned. Also, invest in a heat gun if you don't already have one. They can be cheap and will save you money in wear and tear int the long run.
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Old 05-25-2004, 03:08 PM   #7
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Hey,
I just got a RB.12 V12 Turbo...does any one know how much HP they claim the engine puts out?
Thanks
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Old 05-25-2004, 10:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by jhigga15
Hey,
I just got a RB.12 V12 Turbo...does any one know how much HP they claim the engine puts out?
Thanks
RB doesn't claim Hp figures because they say there isn't a standard to do so, but being a Nova based engine and having owned Rb x12 on the past, I would say something around the 1,5hp figure, but with a different powerband, leaning towards more bottom end than top end.
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Old 05-26-2004, 09:48 AM   #9
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Thanks,
So it's more like a picco, for short quick, not long and fast?
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Old 05-26-2004, 10:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by jhigga15
Thanks,
So it's more like a picco, for short quick, not long and fast?
Not necesarily, just saying it may not have the edge at top end as lets say a Novarossi NSR12S3, but it will be close, depends on the track, how you gear it, pipe, your driving skills, et.etc..
When you race it, you'll see what I mean. Meanwhile don't worry, just Break it in well, start using it and find it's potential and have fun.

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Old 05-26-2004, 02:42 PM   #11
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How should I break it in, I have been reading all of this stuff to bring it up to HIGH RPMs...I have been breaking in engines by letting them idol, should I open it up when I do the Break in?
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Old 05-26-2004, 03:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by jhigga15
How should I break it in, I have been reading all of this stuff to bring it up to HIGH RPMs...I have been breaking in engines by letting them idol, should I open it up when I do the Break in?
This is what Rody Roem (owner of RB) suggests as a Break-In method for his engines. Follow carefully his instructions and you'll have a good engine:


This is what Rody said about this method of WOt Break-In on a Break-In bench with a 7X4 propeller on the motor.
BTW Serpent sells that bench.

"Before you start to run in an engine I suggest you cover the cooling-head with something so the engine heats-up properly(without the cover the engine will stay too cold).

Then start the engine and let it run with the HSN very rich at full throttle (WOT) but avoiding 4 stroking for:

2-tanks at a temperature of about 80C.
Then 2 more tanks at 90C.
Then 1 more tank at 100C.

After this your engine is almost run-in, however you need to finish the rest of the running-in in the car at the track for about 2 more tanks and you are then ready to go.

With the engine at full-throttle (WOT), you are asuring that the idle needle is not in front of the spraybar and so you are running the engine really on the setting of the main-needle and so are also sure the engine will run rich.
Also more fuel/air will go through the engine with full throttle so a better lubrification.

And I may add that the first two tanks be done "Heat Cycling" every 2 to 3 minutes, and after every full tank afterwards, you let the engine cool down completely before restarting (Heat Cycle).

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Old 06-03-2004, 02:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by tecspeed
...wifey has me on rc punishment this weekend
not good dude but you can get yourself a 1/18 and run in the garage or rooms no engine noise to tell you're running your car
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Old 06-11-2004, 12:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by afm


"Before you start to run in an engine I suggest you cover the cooling-head with something so the engine heats-up properly(without the cover the engine will stay too cold).



AFM

you could also use a blow drier or a heat blower gun to rise up the engines temperature before starting it...
i suggest you ask your local hobby store for some help, as you know the life of an engine starts when and how you break it in! search the FAQ's page on the RbConcept website. Goodluck!

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