Black Pixi????
 

Anyone here use or have experience with the Black Pixi line of engines? Any info on break in or other tips would be greatly appreciated :D

I use to have a black pixi 5pt. I let it idle for 1 1/2 tanks then slowly eased up from there. I was about 6-7 tanks into it before i got it into second gear. I think its a good engine but not for the money. I would get the novarossi ns12s5 if you are buying one. Best engine i have ever had

I have 4 Rossi's and they are as fast as any engine out today.


Mark

I appreciate the input, but Im not really looking to start a "Is this engine better than the rest" type thread. Id really be interested in your break in procedures. I have gotten some response in another thread, and if Im understanding this correctly, this guy removed all head shims and ran it in with 25 % and a high oil content fuel. Just wondering if others have similar history or if there's other suggestions.

NOOOO!!!!!!:eek: :eek: :eek:

Remember that you mainly want to heat cycle the motor and let the components settle to the running conditions. What this means is run the motor in with the same fuel you intend to run the motor on. Run it very rich for about a minute, then stop the motor and let it cool completely, do this for 2 tanks, stopping the motor after a minute and letting it cool completely. Then run it a little leaner, the same way you did previously. You may want to run the motor in the car on a bench with a fan, letting the motor idle. After you have leaned the motor on the 3rd and 4th tanks, Lean it to slightly rich, then run the 5th and 6th tanks. now the car is nearly ready, take the car and run it at MAX 1/2 throttle, but cycle the speed up and down, but stop every minute and let it coll completely, do this for one tank. Once this is complete, with the motor rich, run it to full throttle and down to 1/4 throttle, cycle this for a minute, try to get at least ten cycles in the minute, stop and let it cool, do this for a tank. You can now set the car up to race tuning and run it as you need.

You dont necessarily need to follow this, but I can tell you the you will get many great hours out of your motor. AND your motor will be easier to tune, and will make BIG power.

Regards...
Let me know how it runs.

This procedure will also work on a bench with a prop, in fact it is better on a bench, but break-in benches are in excess of $100.

I understand the heat cycle idea and will do that. But my main concern is should I remove this shim and run it. I am gonna use O'donnel 30% and my LHS gave me Rossi C-7S plugs.

Ok...good news...it took a lil while to get the needles right, but once I did, I got it to start and run very nice.I just finished the first tank.I started it up and let it idle through the entire tank rather than the start for a minute-stop,cool down, run for another minute method. I chose this because the temp, through the entire run, never exceeded 150 F. I figure to let it idle through one more tank, lean it a tiny bit, idle two tanks then lean it again, idle...simply keep repeating this til it idles consistantly at around 220 F.Then Ill consider tuning for race conditions.If Im wrong I appreciate any tips...thanks :)

Ok...well so far, six total tanks. Four at idle and two driving it, just barely blipping throttle, maybe 1/4 WOT. Pulled the plug out, and compression is still wicked tight, I can't turn it by hand with the plug out. Tomorrow I will run it more, but it isnt yet ready to be leaned. So far I am extremely happy:D

I am glad you are happy with it. just remember that the run for a minute and stop to cool is to heat cycle the motor so that it will be able to be leaned properly without damage. Just heat cycle it a bit before you lean it out. it is up to you what you do but after tons of research, I found it to be the best. Let me know how it goes, I nearly bought the black pixy, but found the Nova cheaper than the pixy and bought.

I wouldn't take the head shims out with 30% fuel. Most engines are shimmed for 20% average conditions. Usually you want to add shim to an engine to run 30% as the compression will increase, causing a risk of detonation. You won't have a problem with this during break-in cause the over-rich mixture will keep the plug cooler, but when you run in warmer weather with the engine leaner for race-tune, detonation is almost inevitable without any head shims. At least put the same shims back. Some guys remove them during break-in to compensate for the over rich mixture. The extra compression helps force the engine to idle better when super-rich. Keeping that sucker running is the hardest part of break-in. In some engines, running no shim can actually cause the piston and plug to contact each other.

I agree, and

I agree again...

Ok...well...now Im totally confused...although what you two say seems to make more sense than what I had heard in another forum. I was told that the Pixi is over shimmed????...I mean...
it is good with no shims for 30% and that to run a lower % , one would have to have the head button machined down. I can say, as for right now, it is running great. Although I have only run 8 tanks worth so far...despite beautiful weather, I have been sick all week and havn't had desire to do anything:cry: :flaming: :cry:

ie....check page 20 on the STS engine thread and you'll see where Im coming from...

I see what you are saying. It would seem the individual who posted that info had taken actual head clearance measurements. You'd have to take your own measurements to be really sure. Just in case he had an improperly machined head button or something. I'd say if it is running fine, don't worry about it, just keep an eye on the temps and listen for detonation. You'll know when it starts detonating. It will have a distinct crackling noise and performance on the top end will be a bit diminished during all that noise. If the head clearance is in fact higher than typical than you should be fine.

If it aint broke, dont fix it...

You are kidding me, right, I found a ROAR Legal one for 200 dollars some where, I cant remember though?

TowerHobbies has the ROAR legal Rossi for $194.99 and the outlaw for $209.99.


Mark

Running in
 

How many tanks of fuel to run one of these in ??? :weird:

So far, Ive run approx 10-15 tanks, I ferget exactly...anyway..there is still a high amount of "pinch" with the plug out. I still have not started leaning mine out.Not many places around here clean enough to run a TC and the two tracks closest are an hour away, so I havnt put in as much time with this as I have with my 1/8 offroad.

Thanks for the reply NitroOB4You.

These must be about the tightest engines i have came across when new. I hope it goes well when it starts to free up :nod:

I have a 3 port Rossi with over 5 gallons thru and it's still tight as heck at TDC.

Mark

Hi the Pixy IS OVERSHIMMED! The head clearance is around 0.020"with NO SHIMMS. this will be good for 20-30% Nitro.

The only way to check is to measure it.
Take out the plug and insert a piece of solder.
Turn over the motor fully so that the piston flattens the end of the solder
Measure the flat spot with a vernier or a micrometer

It should be 0.018" for 16% Fuel or 0.022 for 30% fuel.

If the head clearance is too big the motor will overheat as the fuel burning happens after the piston has gone over the top (advanced timing).

pixi
 

Is there a turbo head botton for the 12pixi if so what's the part number thanks Tone.{ It's is not the outlaw motor} what's good temps for these pixi motors:cool:

Re: Running in
 

I put a little over a gallon on mine and it was still tight as new. Still got stuck at TDC even with a big 12V motor Ofna.

yeah i too live in ohio and wouldlike to know about what temps these motors run at. I have the .12 3 port pixi. Also i would like to purchas the turbo button. Anyone know where i can get it. I got my motor installed on the car and it didn't even come with a glow plug so i didn't get any extra pieces. Let me know.

Thanks,
Mike

pixxi
 

I just started running this pixxi I don't know whats a good temp yet, but i was racing this weekend another guy was running a pixxi and he was very very fast he was temping at about 265F. I run 30min mains and i think thats to hot for me. That 265f was after a 15min main. I don't know about the turbo botton i'm looking for one to. Tone :cool:

pixxi tell me something
 

Whats up with these pixxis I know someboby loves then tell me a little about them. temps,settings, plugs anything do i need to change carbs whats up. Tone:cool:

Any one know the ideal tempature these should run at and what is the difference between turbo and none turbo ???

I have the 3 port Pixi too. I agree the shim that comes installed is too much. Never could top out on the straight. So now I am running with out the shim with 20% and a turbo plug. The turbo button came with the engine. So I don't know where you can purchase the turbo button.

My temps are at the max of 245f at the end of a 5 minute qualifier.

pixxi
 

Aggdaddy where did you get your pixxi?

Re: pixxi
 

From Towerhobbies.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEDA4&P=7

I bought mine around Novemeber of last year and the price on it was much higher, $239

Re: pixi
 

Got this information from J.Hottinger (ex Paris Racing)
Hope it serves you.
AFM

IDEAL ENGINE TEMPERATURES:
There is no IDEAL temperature for any engine. There are many variables that affect it; Ambient temp, fuel type and nitro content, altitude & barometric pressure, Pipe/manifold type and setting, clutch setting, glow-plug, gear ratio, available traction, How hard your driving, on road or off road Etc. Etc.
All of the following conditions MUST be met before any temperature can be considered correct.
The engine is assumed to be in good shape.
1} There must be a visible trail of smoke when accelerating from EVERY corner.
2} The idle is stable.
3} The glow plug wire stays somewhat shiny and the coil stays round [UN-DISTORTED]
4} The performance is good.

READING YOUR PLUGS:
Actually when a new plug wire just goes slightly gray after a 5 or 10 minute hard run it means your very close to an optimal horsepower tune, but be careful the next step is TOO LEAN!
1} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = rich side of optimum power 85%
2} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = Very close to optimum power 95%
3} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire totally gray but not distorted optimum power 100%
4} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire distorted = slightly lean DANGER!
5} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up = extremely lean possible engine damage!

Re: pixxi tell me something
 

Rossi Engines (General Carb Settings)
Low End: 4-3/4 turns out
High End:3 turns out
Midrange: Flush with carb body

Rossi Engines may take up to a gallon of fuel before fully seated. At about a half-gallon of fuel Rossi Engines are about ready to race!

AFM

Not meaning to nit pick, but combustion after TDC is retarded timing.

Overshimmed Pixi:
 

I was reading the posts ealier and you guys were talking about it being overshimmed. I was running 3 of the copper shims (.011 which made me have .030) in mine. It was running hot some and the idle was finicky. I have since taken them out and now get around (.019).

I run 30% Maxy fuel.

Do I need to stick one (.04) back or will I be ok. Also, what should I have to do to the tuning needles. I wil re-adjust based on conditions but I just wanted to have an idea.

thanks.

R12pixy
 

on my pixy box is say 4.5 high and 4 low end. I got mine going petty good now I had to play with the cars gearing still temping at about 260f BUT runing good after a 30min. main.

need help!!
 

Hi,

i just brought a second-hand rossi pixy 3-port (orange head). It's only got one silver shim on it. I ran it on 30% and it's detonating (i can see the half the piston is darker and wear on one side of the piston) :cry:

But when i run it on 16% it feels very weak, what should i do? Do i need to add or remove shims? Also, when i run it too lean it, the engine rev still stays hi when i let go of throttle and then slows down after 2 or so seconds....

any help is appreciated

I have the Orange head 3 Port Pixi in my Champ Ed. LD3.Pretty sight actually :D ...anyhoo...I am running ODonnel 30 % with Rossi C7-S plugs. Per Zip (I believe this to be his forum name)
I removed the silver shim before I ever started the engine. I am currently running no shim at all. I have approx 3/4 of a gallon through it and this engine has been absolutely awesome.Purs like a kitten. Idles very nicely and starts easily. I have yet to start leaning it out since it still has a high degree of pinch with the plug off. Only real problem I have noticed though, is that it does seem to bog and sometimes dies.Im thinking either it is too rich and I should lean it a little or maybe the clutch isnt set well. I am new to working with a centax type clutch so Im not really sure....but either way...I hope this helps with your questions on the engine.As for the engine rev issue, it may be your pipe pressure line is too long. I had some problems like this and I believe this is what others suggested. I am running the RD Logics trubo pipe and it was suggested to run the pressure line as short as possible.I went from approx. 14 mm down to approx 6 mm.Good luck

Theres this guy selling these new Rossi engines, 2004 model year. Are these really Rossis?
Check it out:
Here is the Rossi X3

Rossi X3

.....the Rossi LSK
Rossi LSK

There are some other Rossi engines on this site that are crazy fast. Does anybody know if they are ROAR legal?

I think this is the Rossi Engines USA retalier, but i'm not sure.

Rossi Pixi 3 port standatd head
 

What plug should I run if I can't locate rossi plugs in my area?

Thanks. :confused: