RD/Richey Racing Engine
#571
Great news on getting your engine built and for sale, RDLogics and Dennis!
Now when can we expect a .21?
Now when can we expect a .21?
#572
Just race
On the short rod motor I would use the short header and .021 thousanths head clearance at sea level with a number 7 turbo plug. If the engine began to detonate with this setup I would switch to the long header but in most cases I would use the short header on this engine. However our short header is actually longer than some of the popular pipes to start with anyway and I would not go any shorter than that unless I was way up in altitude. we tested the long and short on the motor and the a short works best.
The long rod motor definatly needs the long header. Funny were starting to see a pattern with the rod length versus the header length.
My CMB buggy engine has a super long rod and without a super long pipe (compared to most 21's)it just wont work. It short pipes severe.
Initial D
Our parts will swap directly with STS but they are different spec wise beyound what you could see with the eye. (its mostly a clearance,timing,dimensional spec thing.)
On the short rod motor I would use the short header and .021 thousanths head clearance at sea level with a number 7 turbo plug. If the engine began to detonate with this setup I would switch to the long header but in most cases I would use the short header on this engine. However our short header is actually longer than some of the popular pipes to start with anyway and I would not go any shorter than that unless I was way up in altitude. we tested the long and short on the motor and the a short works best.
The long rod motor definatly needs the long header. Funny were starting to see a pattern with the rod length versus the header length.
My CMB buggy engine has a super long rod and without a super long pipe (compared to most 21's)it just wont work. It short pipes severe.
Initial D
Our parts will swap directly with STS but they are different spec wise beyound what you could see with the eye. (its mostly a clearance,timing,dimensional spec thing.)
#574
Originally posted by Motorman
Just race
On the short rod motor I would use the short header and .021 thousanths head clearance at sea level with a number 7 turbo plug. If the engine began to detonate with this setup I would switch to the long header but in most cases I would use the short header on this engine. However our short header is actually longer than some of the popular pipes to start with anyway and I would not go any shorter than that unless I was way up in altitude. we tested the long and short on the motor and the a short works best.
The long rod motor definatly needs the long header. Funny were starting to see a pattern with the rod length versus the header length.
My CMB buggy engine has a super long rod and without a super long pipe (compared to most 21's)it just wont work. It short pipes severe.
Initial D
Our parts will swap directly with STS but they are different spec wise beyound what you could see with the eye. (its mostly a clearance,timing,dimensional spec thing.)
Just race
On the short rod motor I would use the short header and .021 thousanths head clearance at sea level with a number 7 turbo plug. If the engine began to detonate with this setup I would switch to the long header but in most cases I would use the short header on this engine. However our short header is actually longer than some of the popular pipes to start with anyway and I would not go any shorter than that unless I was way up in altitude. we tested the long and short on the motor and the a short works best.
The long rod motor definatly needs the long header. Funny were starting to see a pattern with the rod length versus the header length.
My CMB buggy engine has a super long rod and without a super long pipe (compared to most 21's)it just wont work. It short pipes severe.
Initial D
Our parts will swap directly with STS but they are different spec wise beyound what you could see with the eye. (its mostly a clearance,timing,dimensional spec thing.)
Any number 7 plug or TF or TC, .021, and 30% nitro?
#575
just race
yes exactly .018 or .3 MM stock add .004 or .1 mm to get .021
yes nova shims fit and picco shims fit.
plugs personally I like the top nova 7tgf (tf, novarossi turbo plugs are the best we have tried hands down, however we are testing a plug called the Merlin, if its a standard plug Steve Odonnel makes a great plug that has served out team well the 077 and the 099) in the blue package on 40% I would drop to a 6 on 30% or as hot as I could get away with without burnout or harmonic fatigue. Harmonic fatigue is a problem on the long rod engine as we have found ways to get to pull very hard well past 40000. Usually we can get away with 7 on those but at times an 8 or 9 is required
Personal tip: plug, head clerance,and pipe are the biggest factors concerning engine performance than any wazoo porting you can do. Bar none hands down. 20 plus years of building race engines tells me this is a fact without question.
now that we have our own motors it is going to be nice to talk shop with everyone again.
yes exactly .018 or .3 MM stock add .004 or .1 mm to get .021
yes nova shims fit and picco shims fit.
plugs personally I like the top nova 7tgf (tf, novarossi turbo plugs are the best we have tried hands down, however we are testing a plug called the Merlin, if its a standard plug Steve Odonnel makes a great plug that has served out team well the 077 and the 099) in the blue package on 40% I would drop to a 6 on 30% or as hot as I could get away with without burnout or harmonic fatigue. Harmonic fatigue is a problem on the long rod engine as we have found ways to get to pull very hard well past 40000. Usually we can get away with 7 on those but at times an 8 or 9 is required
Personal tip: plug, head clerance,and pipe are the biggest factors concerning engine performance than any wazoo porting you can do. Bar none hands down. 20 plus years of building race engines tells me this is a fact without question.
now that we have our own motors it is going to be nice to talk shop with everyone again.
Last edited by Motorman; 11-04-2004 at 03:50 PM.
#576
Originally posted by Motorman
just race
yes exactly .018 or .3 MM stock add .004 or .1 mm to get .021
plugs personally I like the top nova 7tgf (tf, novarossi turbo plugs are the best we have tried hands down, however we are testing a plug called the Merlin, iof its a standard plug Steve Odonnel makes a great plug that has served out team well the 077 and the 099) in the blue package on 40% I would drop to a 6 on 30% or as hot as I could get away with without burnout or harmonic fatigue. Harmonic fatigue is a problem on the long rod engine as we have found ways to get to pull very hard well past 40000. Usually we can get away with 7 on those but at times an 8 or 9 is required
Personal tip: plug, head clerance,and pipe are the biggest factors concerning engine performance than any wazoo porting you can do. Bar none hands down. 20 plus years of building race engines tells me this is a fact without question.
just race
yes exactly .018 or .3 MM stock add .004 or .1 mm to get .021
plugs personally I like the top nova 7tgf (tf, novarossi turbo plugs are the best we have tried hands down, however we are testing a plug called the Merlin, iof its a standard plug Steve Odonnel makes a great plug that has served out team well the 077 and the 099) in the blue package on 40% I would drop to a 6 on 30% or as hot as I could get away with without burnout or harmonic fatigue. Harmonic fatigue is a problem on the long rod engine as we have found ways to get to pull very hard well past 40000. Usually we can get away with 7 on those but at times an 8 or 9 is required
Personal tip: plug, head clerance,and pipe are the biggest factors concerning engine performance than any wazoo porting you can do. Bar none hands down. 20 plus years of building race engines tells me this is a fact without question.
AFM
#577
Personally I would try to get away with .014 and after a good run at 250/260 pull the head and check for detonation. personally I would just step to 40. it is a monumental change in power.
Nitro+ = TORQUE BUT LESS RPM (however it is a huge torque gain with a small rpm loss so?)
Nitro+ = TORQUE BUT LESS RPM (however it is a huge torque gain with a small rpm loss so?)
#578
If you have any questions about engine performance I an once again ready to help folks in any way I can. There are many new faces since I turned roar on its ear in 2000 with the MT 12RTU (I must thank novarossi for an exceptional base powerplant at that time, Mario is a legend no doubt) engine and many of you dont know my history but I am here to share what I can to ensure that the new RD/Richey motor becomes a standard you can get excited about and most of all exceed's your expectations for performance and raw dollar value.
funny if I had a nickle for every hour I have spent the last 20 years working on engines to get to this point I would have just retired LOL
funny if I had a nickle for every hour I have spent the last 20 years working on engines to get to this point I would have just retired LOL
Last edited by Motorman; 11-04-2004 at 04:15 PM.
#579
Originally posted by Motorman
Personally I would try to get away with .014 and after a good run at 250/260 pull the head and check for detonation. personally I would just step to 40. it is a monumental change in power.
Nitro+ = TORQUE BUT LESS RPM (however it is a huge torque gain with a small rpm loss so?)
Personally I would try to get away with .014 and after a good run at 250/260 pull the head and check for detonation. personally I would just step to 40. it is a monumental change in power.
Nitro+ = TORQUE BUT LESS RPM (however it is a huge torque gain with a small rpm loss so?)
For Std. plug then..... O'Donnell 77 would be OK??. What about
Mc Coy MC9??
AFM
#584
Tech Rookie
how do you feel about the odonnel turbo plugs 77-99 compared to novarossi ? are the 77 turbo equal to 7tf novarossi ?