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Originally Posted by BuddyBaja
(Post 13123966)
I have both the LRP.28 AND .32 for my gt2 kyosho. Which one do you recommened I send in to mod. I am looking for just balls out power and RPM. This is just my basher.
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Still doing Mods for GT on-road nitro cars?
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Yes sir.... Still modifying engines! Just don't frequent the forums much these days. No time...
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It's been a while since I posted here, but I just realized that my Ntc3 was way overgeared for my track...Even then the Abmods jlr tuned still pulled decently with 21/27 and 54/48, but I will be running 19/25 and 54/48 next season... I just found out about the dynotech racing 19t pinions(#8050) that fit the Ntc3 clutchbell... I also will need to have some new aluminum clutchbells made along with some spools and diff outdrives, in order to maximize acceleration..... The Ntc3 is not done yet !!!!!!
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Ok guys, I finally had all the aluminum parts made and shaved another 39grams off the ntc3 drivetrain alone: 10grams off the clutchbell; 17grams off the rear diff outdrives; 12grams off the front spool..... That should give my Abmods Jlr a well deserved load reduction, resulting in video game type acceleration....... I hope my brakes will be up to the challenge...lol...
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
(Post 14562859)
Ok guys, I finally had all the aluminum parts made and shaved another 39grams off the ntc3 drivetrain alone: 10grams off the clutchbell; 17grams off the rear diff outdrives; 12grams off the front spool..... That should give my Abmods Jlr a well deserved load reduction, resulting in video game type acceleration....... I hope my brakes will be up to the challenge...lol...
I never had a chance to try different pipes for the NTC3s... What pipe are you currently running on this engine? The Picco pipe i tested it with on just a race mod for heat racing made in the 1.2 hp on my x-dyno with a VERY broad HP curve! But of course that pipe is discontinued and it wouldn't fit on the NTC3... And 1.2 HP on my X-dyno is A LOT of pwr for a .12!! My X-Dyno reads MUCH MUCH lower then the dynos i see going around these days... Some of them is reads as much as half of their readings..... Those JLRs with some work are deadly! Had a customer of mine set some ISC speed records with it years back. :tire: |
Originally Posted by Colt4g63
(Post 14562865)
Sounds good!
I never had a chance to try different pipes for the NTC3s... What pipe are you currently running on this engine? The Picco pipe i tested it with on just a race mod for heat racing made in the 1.2 hp on my x-dyno with a VERY broad HP curve! But of course that pipe is discontinued and it wouldn't fit on the NTC3... And 1.2 HP on my X-dyno is A LOT of pwr for a .12!! My X-Dyno reads MUCH MUCH lower then the dynos i see going around these days... Some of them is reads as much as half of their readings..... Those JLRs with some work are deadly! Had a customer of mine set some ISC speed records with it years back. :tire: |
I am using the Ntc3 factory team dual chamber pipe(with 10mm or so cut off the manifold) with my Jlr, and it had alot of power when my car switched to second gear. I knew that I was not in the powerband at all in first gear with the 21t/27t pinion combo, so I switched to 19t/25t pinions that matches my competitor's gearing... Dynotech Racing built me some more lightweight aluminum parts that got my Ntc3(1659grams) down very close to the minimum weight limit, from the hefty 1721grams it was before..... All in all I am happy with the progress, but I have not tested my new and improved ntc3 yet...
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DYNO or not, I am very impressed with the power of my Abmods Jlr .12 motor, even when running a bit rich in a heavy car with the wrong gearing and not properly setup... The gas mileage was even more impressive: my pitman kept asking me why I was piting with half a tank left at the four minute mark.... I saw others pit, so I came in to pit too....lol... I could have taken a chance and run the full seven minutes without piting at all, but I thought it was mandatory to pit at least once... Others could not even make it to the five minute mark without running out of fuel... Maybe the smooth shaftdrive had something to do with that or maybe it was both the Ntc3 and the economic engine...
Originally Posted by nitrodude
(Post 14563336)
I think the numbers from dyno to dyno dont matter, or even the HP figures. But the dyno allows you to compare motor to motor, and also pipe conbos, and mods(on the same dyno), thats what they're good for.
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
(Post 14563350)
DYNO or not, I am very impressed with the power of my Abmods Jlr .12 motor, even when running a bit rich in a heavy car with the wrong gearing and not properly setup... The gas mileage was even more impressive: my pitman kept asking me why I was piting with half a tank left at the four minute mark.... I saw others pit, so I came in to pit too....lol... I could have taken a chance and run the full seven minutes without piting at all, but I thought it was mandatory to pit at least once... Others could not even make it to the five minute mark without running out of fuel... Maybe the smooth shaftdrive had something to do with that or maybe it was both the Ntc3 and the economic engine...
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Originally Posted by nitrodude
(Post 14563336)
I think the numbers from dyno to dyno dont matter, or even the HP figures. But the dyno allows you to compare motor to motor, and also pipe conbos, and mods(on the same dyno), thats what they're good for.
A dyno that reads lower takes more hp/tq percentage increase to raise the output number the dyno spits out. So therefore you have to make a larger % increase on a dyno that reads lower to see larger numbers. I hope that makes sense... im on little sleep today so bare with me folks. :) |
Originally Posted by Colt4g63
(Post 14563359)
I have been working with dynos for over 20 years now for tuning on full scale cars/engines... And nearly if not 10 years with my X-dyno on these small scale nitro engines. And I agree the dyno is a tool for R&D on these engines and a tuning for full scale engines PERIOD....That's why i haven't worried about changing how my dyno reads. I like that it reads low and ill explain why.
A dyno that reads lower takes more hp/tq percentage increase to raise the output number the dyno spits out. So therefore you have to make a larger % increase on a dyno that reads lower to see larger numbers. I hope that makes sense... im on little sleep today so bare with me folks. :) To me a dyno is a very important tool to record on what an engine is doing , so you can further improve its performance where areas need be! Keep up the good work!...:D |
Originally Posted by cbaker65
(Post 14640278)
I love your thread.
To me a dyno is a very important tool to record on what an engine is doing , so you can further improve its performance where areas need be! Keep up the good work!...:D Thanks for the kind words! |
I have a 2.5R traxxas engine that I'd like modded. It's got few gallons through it, is it a candidate?
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Wow, the Jlr is still getting better in my ntc3 with all the lightweight mods I did to the drivetrain, but I still think there might be another 5grams to lose on the AE three shoe flywheel, and another 20grams to lose between the AE two speed and AE/losi lcd axles.....
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