kitracer

Hi Ed,
I think he just meant to say, put 2 holes on the piston, like some of the existing Mod engine ( OS and MAX on 2.1cc).
My personally experience after adding the 2 holes.
NOTHING

I heard it should give you more RPM, but on the two 2.1cc engine that I tried, it did not do anything, at least mine lap time remain the same.

EdwardN

iTrader: (1)

Hi Cris. I see what was in that question. No that holes will not add anything. It mkes sence to make those holes only as bypass ports as it is done on 21 engines, to help traped undernice piston fuel move out ( but it will required to make extra ports on sleeve too), other then that will not add anything, it might be even as issue on balancing of cranckshaft. I wouldn't do it.

xtreme888

Sorry Ed,

I was talking about the "holes" in 3.5cc engine.
By the way i contacted Campbell regarding the price of the 3.5cc BRB piston,liner and conrod for either a Novamega MS Evo5 or a Rody C5. He said he will contact you to confirm the exact price. Hopefully, you can give him a price asap coz i would like to run your p/s and conrod set in the Brookland national in the second week of August!!! Oh, by the way, is there any particular method of running in BRB, as it is different from ABC and AAC?

cya

Xtreme8888

EdwardN

iTrader: (1)

How is going.
Yes campbell call me and we working out right now on pricing.
Run in procedure is totaly different. Run one tank reach on starter box, one tanks slow on track and one tank mid speed on track. All these 3 tanks have to be on reach setting and temp must be no less then 185 F. Then it is ready to be tune for race tunning. This P/S set must to be run pretty hot-235-250 F. DON'T BE AFARAID THIS TEMP, NOTHING IS GOING HAPPENED TO ANYTHING. We run it on 350 F for 1 full tank and it was perfect condition. If try to run less then 235 F, it will not perform. It must to be leaner then original set.

Ah10

Hey ed, I was at CP till 5pm yesterday but didnt see u, would you please let me know when you have time?

I will be at CP next saturday for the whole day too!

Surge

iTrader: (2)

I'd like to add a note to Edwards break in instructions. I noticed that to get the temp up, I had to use a little more throttle than I normally do while keeping the fuel mixture pretty rich. This might be obvious to some people, but wanted to throw it out there. Also, the temperature is important to have the sleeve expand and not restrict the piston too much. Less wear and tear on the moving parts.

EdwardN

iTrader: (1)

Hey Tony. I am writing PM to you now, please read it.
Saturday we were at Rev till 3:30 and then went straight back home. Sorry, realy didn't have chance to get on CP.

boner

iTrader: (4)

Surge: Do you have flame out problem with PS12? I have problem keeping this engine alive after 4 min of running (always after 4 min.) I tried to tune the engine like you suggested still flame out after 4 min mark. It only flame out if I let go of throttle for more than 3 sec after 4 mins. Other strange sign close to 4 min mark was very sluggish(bogging) on acceleration before 4 min the engins is a beast. Engine temp range 220~250F after flamed out. Manage to get it last for 10 min race at very rich setting, sloggish acceleration, engine temp 200F.

What kind of carb, plugs and fuel did you use on PS12?

Surge

iTrader: (2)

Lately I've been using the Nelson plug, 20% Rocket Science fuel with a Novarossi carb from my NS12 (with the removable venturi). You indicated it's bogging slightly on acceleration and I assume it's fine through the mid and high range. So my guess for the solution to your flame out problem is to richen the bottom end needle a little. Try richening the bottom 1/2 to 1 hr at a time until the problem goes away. I've noticed that the PS12 responds well to small needle changes once you're close to optimum tune. I used to change them a 1/4 turn at a time and think I was tuning myself out by doing that. Try the 'pinch the fuel tube test' and count how long the engine takes to stall. Pinch about 3 inches back from the carb, mine usually takes 1.5-2sec. to stall. In TX I have to run a few hrs richer bottom end than I did in Cali. I'm curious, where do you live?

The design of the engine dissipates heat so well, I think the temps are masking the mixture just a little. That's probably why you're not seeing 280-300 like a Nova might with those needle settings. Also keep in mind that with the good dissipation, comes taking a little longer than normal to build the heat. I try to run my engine for 2min. on the track before I try to maximize the tuning. I like to let the engine warm up to race temp before I try to judge mixture or check temps.

teammpp

Today, we fine tuned one of the engines here in the UK and once tuned it was a real rocket. In the end we finished up at the following set up (ran out of time due to a heavy schedule in preparation for a Grand Prix event this coming weekend).

Carb - Novamega .12 with 5.4mm restrictor.
LSN - 1.5 turns out from completely in
HSN - 4.5 turns out from completely in

The engine temped at 220deg F and we know that there is still a lot left in the HSN yet. The only problem we encountered was the length of our straight. The engine was still pulling in 2nd come the end of the straight so we know we have a serious amount left in reserve. Basically, the clutch and gearbox was bolted on as it was running on the tuned Novamega and that engine was topping out at the end of the straight.

At these settings we had no bog throughout the run and still a healthy smoke trail from one end of the straight to the other.

boner

iTrader: (4)

Surge and PE: I end up running very rich during my main which didn't flame out. very sluggish from bottom to end of the straight (100ft, small track) and half of my car is cover with fuel after the main. Luckly it's a old body not a newly painted.

I'm using MT12 carb, LSN: 1 3/4 turn and HSN: 3 3/4 during the main race. I did a pinch test with engine at 200~210F, between 2-3 inch from the carb. Engine didn't raise rpm for 7 sec and engine ide at 10 sec. Engine temp 210F after 10 min race.

This is the setting I have during my qualifies which stall after 4 min mark, LSN: 1 1/4 HSN: 3 1/4. pinch test: 4 sec before engine stall. Engine temp around 230F when stalled

EdwardN

iTrader: (1)

Hi Lee. Please read my email regarding head shimming. about needles settings, 3-1/4 on top is pretty lean and 1-1/4 lean too. What about idle?
210 after 10 miuts race is too llow, it shoud be somewhere between 240-260 on glow plug.
try to use Nova #8 glow plug, it will change a lot.

boner

iTrader: (4)

TG777: You suggested to take 3 shims out but I end up taking 2. About idling, engine will idle on starter box for 3 mins before flooding out with this setting LSN: 1 1/4 HSN: 3 1/4. It's hard to restart without taking the plug out to clean out the oil. Temp reading steady at 200F on starter box and right after flood out is 195F. I read the temp every 10 sec since I have nothing to do between heats, just to keep myself occupied
With this setting LSN: 1 3/4 turn and HSN: 3 3/4, engine barely idle more than 30 sec before flooding. If it flood, it's hard to restart unless remove the plug to swing out the fuel in the plug. idling temp is <190F. Tons of fuel coming out of stinger. Oil were dripping down from the stinger and left side of the body after 10 min race.
I tried OS P8 (coldest turbo plug from OS) and nova CT6C, both shared same problem. The plugs didn't show any sign off too lean. I remove it and it's coated with oil, you can swing out a drop or 2 fuel out of the plugs.
I guess my MT12 carb is BAD. But still with all these problems I still turn in lap time very close to my best time on NSR with BRB, just shy of 0.2sec. I'll go out to tune it more if weather permit tomorrow.

kitracer

Boner
I don't think is your Nova carb, Your setting sound way too rich. One of mine engine had that ( looks like flame out) "Flame" out problem after 3 min. It was on a large track and happens after end of the straight then into a really slow coner it start to bog.... bog.... before it would accelerate or engine may sometime shut as result. I HAVE TO LEAN THE LSN MORE to solve that problem.

Do the pinch test on Fuel line ( less then 3 sec should die) and also do this after you run the engine for 3 mins( this is to make sure your engine is in full operation temperture) and test it on starter box:
Full throttle, let it idle for 10 sec. then accelerate again and see how clean it will go. You should see white smoke but without any delay on accelerate. Keep leaning the LSN 1/8 each time.

I don't like TC plug unless the humidity is over 85%.
I always use TF 7 when Air temp over 25 celsius.
This engine can reach 120 celsius up to 135 without any problem.

boner

iTrader: (4)

kitracer: I believe I tried leaning the low end to as low as 1 turn from close and show signs of too lean. Well I hope i'll find time today to do more fine tuning on this engine.