RS5 Killed 5 of my plugs
12-18-2003, 05:07 PM
#16
A very good article for reference.
Originally posted by dino.tw
Regarding broken bushing,most of this case is caused by the not proper break-in process. When the sleeve and piston still new,it's very tight. It will make the rod to take very big stress during breaking in. And make the bushing worn fast even break.
And as you know that there are too many different break-in ways wide-spreading around us. Some people say 10 tanks is engough,and some people say he need 2L of fuel to break-in his engine. Someone say just use 30% to break-in,someone say use 5% is best? Everyone think he is expert already and give strong suggestion to others on the net. But no one know who is right! There are too many information around us which may wrong. I don't know how you will treat your engine,that's why I usual suggest people to replace the conrod after break-in. It dosen't mean the conrod is not strong enough.
Some person ever ask me,why not make the P/S set not so tight?
Good question! I have tried,but people say this P/S set has fault. And this kind of P/S set will easy to lose compression if over-heat. Till now,people will use Nova's products as standard to judge other manufactory. That's why we have to use the same standard to produce engine.
You must treat your engine with care. Any high performance racing engine can turn at close to 40,000 rpm.(666 times up-down / each second
) Any failure at such a high rpm can cause damage and exemplifies why you need to regularly maintain your engine. And if there is a play,just replace with new parts. Of course we can produce a super lasting engine such as STS12,but we have to limit the max-rpm. You will not like it anymore. Want Ferrari or TOYOTA? 
So,I usual suggest every racers that you need at least two engines. One for race another for practice. When one engine can't work proper,just replace with another fine engine. When you back home or have free time,take it apart to see if there is any worn part. Don't guess it is tuning problem only,and try to restart is again and again. It will make the engine damaged more serious.
A real fault engine will be damaged on the first tank. If you can run it for a while,that's mean the QC is ok. Please understand that all moving parts inside the engine are subject to wear, and that if a piston/liner has worn out then likely the end/con-rod has also worn. When these parts are eventually in need of replacement, they are readily available and have a big play. If an engine has been broken, check to see if all of the other moving parts are still in good shape. If you only replace one part and leave other worn parts in place, it is possible that you will soon have another failure. That's why many expert will suggest newbie not to repair your engine just buy new one. Because they never know if there is any other worn part in your engine.
By the way,fuel is another problem. There are too many different brands of fuels around us. I suggest customers on the Instruction Manual that ...The choice of fuel is very important, it should contain a minimum of 10% castor and/or synthetic oil. Regarding the percentage of nitro: more nitro content (higher %) will provide more explosive force and more horsepower from your engine, but it will also shorten the engine?fs life. For average use we recommend 15~25% nitro fuels.
A CHAMPION fuel may not good for everyone. Some fuel only has 8% lubrication even less. Yes,it may make your engine more fast but also wearing fast. So before you choice fuel,you have to know what you want? Faster or lasting?
Above suggestion is writed to all buddies here,sorry for my poor english...
Sincerely,
Regarding broken bushing,most of this case is caused by the not proper break-in process. When the sleeve and piston still new,it's very tight. It will make the rod to take very big stress during breaking in. And make the bushing worn fast even break.
And as you know that there are too many different break-in ways wide-spreading around us. Some people say 10 tanks is engough,and some people say he need 2L of fuel to break-in his engine. Someone say just use 30% to break-in,someone say use 5% is best? Everyone think he is expert already and give strong suggestion to others on the net. But no one know who is right! There are too many information around us which may wrong. I don't know how you will treat your engine,that's why I usual suggest people to replace the conrod after break-in. It dosen't mean the conrod is not strong enough.
Some person ever ask me,why not make the P/S set not so tight?
Good question! I have tried,but people say this P/S set has fault. And this kind of P/S set will easy to lose compression if over-heat. Till now,people will use Nova's products as standard to judge other manufactory. That's why we have to use the same standard to produce engine.
You must treat your engine with care. Any high performance racing engine can turn at close to 40,000 rpm.(666 times up-down / each second
) Any failure at such a high rpm can cause damage and exemplifies why you need to regularly maintain your engine. And if there is a play,just replace with new parts. Of course we can produce a super lasting engine such as STS12,but we have to limit the max-rpm. You will not like it anymore. Want Ferrari or TOYOTA? So,I usual suggest every racers that you need at least two engines. One for race another for practice. When one engine can't work proper,just replace with another fine engine. When you back home or have free time,take it apart to see if there is any worn part. Don't guess it is tuning problem only,and try to restart is again and again. It will make the engine damaged more serious.
A real fault engine will be damaged on the first tank. If you can run it for a while,that's mean the QC is ok. Please understand that all moving parts inside the engine are subject to wear, and that if a piston/liner has worn out then likely the end/con-rod has also worn. When these parts are eventually in need of replacement, they are readily available and have a big play. If an engine has been broken, check to see if all of the other moving parts are still in good shape. If you only replace one part and leave other worn parts in place, it is possible that you will soon have another failure. That's why many expert will suggest newbie not to repair your engine just buy new one. Because they never know if there is any other worn part in your engine.
By the way,fuel is another problem. There are too many different brands of fuels around us. I suggest customers on the Instruction Manual that ...The choice of fuel is very important, it should contain a minimum of 10% castor and/or synthetic oil. Regarding the percentage of nitro: more nitro content (higher %) will provide more explosive force and more horsepower from your engine, but it will also shorten the engine?fs life. For average use we recommend 15~25% nitro fuels.
A CHAMPION fuel may not good for everyone. Some fuel only has 8% lubrication even less. Yes,it may make your engine more fast but also wearing fast. So before you choice fuel,you have to know what you want? Faster or lasting?
Above suggestion is writed to all buddies here,sorry for my poor english...
Sincerely,
12-18-2003, 05:08 PM
#17
Re: Killer RS5
Originally posted by Slammed
The bushing on the top is missing. The bushing on the bottom is still there. The rod on the top is cracked. some of the piston skirt is cracked off.
The bushing on the top is missing. The bushing on the bottom is still there. The rod on the top is cracked. some of the piston skirt is cracked off.
Originally posted by Slammed
Do you think the bushing did more damage than the filliment?
Do you think the bushing did more damage than the filliment?
When the bushing disintegrates, the fine metal particles fly all over in the engine and acts like a spray of bullets hitting everywhere in the combustion chamber. That is why your piston head and button head surface is sandblasted. This particles will also knock out your glow plug filamen and distort it. Have you checked your glow plug and try to clean them out? You'll probably find debris in them. Just my 2 cents.
The thing to do now before putting a new set of intenals is to clean out the engine totally (bearings included) and get rid of all the bushing particles that may still be in the engine.
Sorry if this was not the kind of help you're looking for. Just thought it would help you understand better why or how the failure could have occurred.
04-06-2004, 01:12 PM
#18
I'm looking at getting an rs3. from what im reading, are you going to have to for sure replace conrad after breakin? What if i don't get an engine w/ the replacement included? Thanks
Last edited by bballer; 04-06-2004 at 02:04 PM.
04-07-2004, 12:56 AM
#19
Originally posted by dino.tw
And as you know that there are too many different break-in ways wide-spreading around us. Some people say 10 tanks is engough,and some people say he need 2L of fuel to break-in his engine. Someone say just use 30% to break-in,someone say use 5% is best? Everyone think he is expert already and give strong suggestion to others on the net. But no one know who is right! There are too many information around us which may wrong. I don't know how you will treat your engine,that's why I usual suggest people to replace the conrod after break-in. It dosen't mean the conrod is not strong enough.
And as you know that there are too many different break-in ways wide-spreading around us. Some people say 10 tanks is engough,and some people say he need 2L of fuel to break-in his engine. Someone say just use 30% to break-in,someone say use 5% is best? Everyone think he is expert already and give strong suggestion to others on the net. But no one know who is right! There are too many information around us which may wrong. I don't know how you will treat your engine,that's why I usual suggest people to replace the conrod after break-in. It dosen't mean the conrod is not strong enough.
04-08-2004, 08:33 PM
#20
Originally posted by Julius
I would be interested to hear your suggestion on how to break-in an engine. Maybe you could point all the self proclaimed "experts" in the right direction.
I would be interested to hear your suggestion on how to break-in an engine. Maybe you could point all the self proclaimed "experts" in the right direction.
Lap piston before start engine to desired size, run one tank at 15 K RPM and it is ready to race.
04-12-2004, 08:29 AM
#21
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
My idea in brak in is the same what I used in Florida on winternats-just 5 minuts hand work-safe gallon of fuel and 3 hours of annoying sound.
Lap piston before start engine to desired size, run one tank at 15 K RPM and it is ready to race.
My idea in brak in is the same what I used in Florida on winternats-just 5 minuts hand work-safe gallon of fuel and 3 hours of annoying sound.
Lap piston before start engine to desired size, run one tank at 15 K RPM and it is ready to race.
btw, how did you lap the piston? always used the heat-cycle method previously (play safe)
04-12-2004, 11:38 AM
#22
Originally posted by orangbaligila
not recommended for beginners, hehehe...
btw, how did you lap the piston?
not recommended for beginners, hehehe...
btw, how did you lap the piston?
04-12-2004, 11:23 PM
#23
this is exactly what happened to me last week, i was at the track with my newly broken in RS5, it ran fine for a few tanks but all of sudden it started acting up. I have replaced a few new turbo plugs but no dice. I took the engine apart and it turned out to be the conrod. 
i still not sure what caused this but i noticed there are small debris inside the engine. so now i have new conrod installed but before i hit the track i would like to know how much shims do you guys run and what kind of plug. any suggestion will be highly appreciated.
Jeff
i still not sure what caused this but i noticed there are small debris inside the engine. so now i have new conrod installed but before i hit the track i would like to know how much shims do you guys run and what kind of plug. any suggestion will be highly appreciated.Jeff
04-15-2004, 12:13 AM
#24
Tech Apprentice
Hey Jeffery....
Your engine is ready. I cleaned it up, the piston and sleeve are fine. Just 2 minor scratches on the piston, but no big deal. The compression is still good and the P/S are still tight at the TDC. For the head shims, I suggest you put 0.5mm on and use #7 plug if you are going to use 30% fuel. You can choose different plug to alter the ignition timing. I'll bring your engine to the track on Thursday. I believe your engine will run faster.
Let's see...
I cleaned it up, the piston and sleeve are fine. Just 2 minor scratches on the piston, but no big deal. The compression is still good and the P/S are still tight at the TDC. For the head shims, I suggest you put 0.5mm on and use #7 plug if you are going to use 30% fuel. You can choose different plug to alter the ignition timing. I'll bring your engine to the track on Thursday. I believe your engine will run faster. Let's see...
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