R/C Tech Forums - Novarossi engines thread

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Where can i get a carb o-ring kit fdor my 3 needle NSR12S3 carb?

Quote:

Originally Posted by asw7576

Hurry up !! I need to buy JP or Novarossi p/s/r for NSR12S5 and N12LL5.

PS set for NSR and LL is different. which one do you want and how many?

engine ball bearings

hi all,

i own a novarossi .12L5, the last time i tried to play with the car it was getting too hot whatever i tried to do, so cleaing the engine i noticed that the main axle of the engine was able to do a small movement left-right, up-down so turning the axle around i noticed that the bottom part of the engine rod was attaching the engine case. so i think the ball bearings are not working correctly.

has anyone ever experienced the same? how often do you need to change the engine ball bearings?

BR
antony

When you have the slightest play in your bearings, you'll have to replace them.

Your conrod will most likely be shot as well

Quote:

Originally Posted by stefan

When you have the slightest play in your bearings, you'll have to replace them.

Your conrod will most likely be shot as well

you always replace both of them or only front or rear ?

Yes I do.You can check if one of them is still ok, but once I'm at it, I'll change both.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corse-R

Salvadori:

Please... go to the first pages of this thread and others and you may realize that I've been a long-term Novarossi user (in fact... I've been using Nova engines since 2002 with the exception of two Sirios I've bought in the meantime - let me recall how many I've bought during this 4 years... too many to mention, from RS12's to NS/NSR's, RR and LS for the .12 and beginning with an SP-1, RX21's/RX21WC's and a 321P not too bad for the last 4 years. I can prove it if you want a photo of them).

I'm not a fan of XXX or YYY brand. I use what I see thats competitive and of course available easily, when I'm saying something about an engine isn't hype or an obscure marketing move are bare facts and my words are behind a test on the track by myself.

Liked Nova ones, and if they were a minimum quality and reliability (not in long term... short to medium term) I'll continue using them, but to my eyes are sub-par vs. the price they cost. Dollar by dollar (or Euros) you get more in 'other brands' sad, but true.

Having problems like you told is a matter of knowing the engines and knowing what to do and how to do it (I'll not negate that 'other brands' had continous problems with their crankshafts, but were replaced and hasn't appeared another time that problem). People has a very selective memory and remembers what nightmare happened with the Evo2, but doesn't remembers/or doesn't want to remember what's happening with actual LS and LR models giving the ghost the P/S with very few tanks (got an LS that gave the ghost with 6 tanks and I'm not a newbie doing break-ins).

I got an LS that has close to ten liters of Tornado on it and it's just now starting to loose compression. The engine is still faster than most out there.

I think there are very few people that know how to break in a micro cast piston engine, in fact most people don't even know if they have a machined or casted piston.

I think NovaRossi are to blame since they just give people shitty instructions.

Since I understood how to break in microcast engines, I never had any problems with them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by stefan

Yes I do.You can check if one of them is still ok, but once I'm at it, I'll change both.

ok :) thnx a lot

Where can i get a NovaRossi 12-3 ? not the Ceramic one?

Here

http://shop.the-border.nl/product.ph...cat=207&page=1

Thats if you want to pay over $400!!

hehehe, 502 U.S. dollars... ouch!!! :weird:

Quote:

Originally Posted by stefan

Would you share how do you break in microcasted piston engines ?

Hey Stefan,

I'd like to know (breaking in microcast) also because I lost money in a 321p Put in a new P/S and got maybe a gallon through it and compression was gone. New rod, new crank also and it still wore out very fast.

I was also wondering....

Ok, here is what has been working for me:

I heat the entire engine up with a heat blower untiil it has at least 80-90°C (the entire engine, not just the head) before I ever start it up.

Start the engine and put it on the track immediately and drive the car at a good pace keeping temp up to 100°C. I do not adjust the needle towards rich, I actually want the car to shift into second gear.

Cool down to ambient temperature and run another tank the same way and that's it.

Since the microcast pistons are not as tight as the machined pistons, this is all they need, the entire break in is actually more for the bearings and conrod.

The more those engines are run under "break in conditions" (rich and cool), the more the microcast piston is wearing out before she ever makes power.

This has been working for me. It feels strange to do this the first times, but the benefits are great.