I got the bearings for any Nova Rossi base engine in stock :)

How do i get the back bearing out of the 35PLUS21? The bore in the crankcase is 15.5 mm and the bearing is 15.5mm so you cant get a tool in to tap it out. Is there a bearing puller that I can get to pull it out? I dont see how as there is nothing to grab hold of!!

Cheers

the bearing size is 26mm O D x 14.5mm I D x 6mm thickness where did you get the measurement of 15.5mm :confused: ???????

Have you tried sticking in an oven for 5-6 minutes preheated at 325 degrees? Use the handle of a wooden spoon to tap the bearings out.

Top Issue with compression
 

Welp I've been running the top for about say 13 tanks or so on 30%byrons race blend, previously broken in with 20% Odonnell, and I noticed I could turn the engine over withmy index finger and thumb. There is a bit of pinch there, so upon inspection of the engine everything seems fine in there - no scratches, no worn parts, etc. I realized who ever assembled the engine, slipped two bronze shims under the big metal one. One appears to be .2mm and the other is .1mm. I removed the .1mm and noticed there was a bit more to the pinch at the top. The engine never seemed to clear out when the #6 RB was in there, but the Nova #7 CTFS worked great. Think any detonation will occur? I was going to start the engine a while back when it was warm out and I did get some sort of backfire as the car blasted my friend in the face with a puft of smoke/air. Any ideas guys? Should I remove that other .2mm shim and leave the normal silver shim in there? I know others ran their engines with no shims and just cooler plugs withmore success and that article stating sometime shims aren't necessary? Then again when I had my engine it did have quite a lot of compression. :confused:

Bert,
You should not be removing any shims from under the head. When making the switch to 30% you should be adding at least a .10 shim. The more you remove the better chance you have at a detonation senario. Put all the shims back in and retune. :nod:

Jaime,

Thnx. I'll add it back in then. What about the compression issue? I never really had an engine that was fairly easy to turn over by hand like it before..then again it does run fine. So leave well enough alone eh?

Bert,
As far as how the compression feels, don't worry too much, it's usually a sign of a well seated piston/sleeve. Remember, if the pinch at TDC is really tight, the engine will run hot and not make the power it should.
I usually am concerned more with connecting rod/wristpin/clips,than I am about piston/sleeve.

Jaime,
Sounds great! Thanks a bunch! I got worried for a sec. Everything back to normal and car been rebuilt ready for another run when I get more fuel in. Unfortunately they may not carry byrons due to the fact they want to send 8 cases instead of 4. My LHS doesn't have room for 8 cases. The other option is Odonnels 30% and Blue Thunder 30%. I may give OD a whirl.

Tell Tony to stop being cheap and order the 8 cases, there's room in the basement. :D :D :D
I have run every fuel out there and always went back to Byron/Mugen fuel. IMO there is nothing better.

Novamega sx12rt ms
 

I've done a thread search and couldn't find much info...
Does anyone know if there are still parts for novamega sx12rt available?
I picked one up used. i'm just getting into nitro. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jaime - That's what I've been thinking! I personally found byrons to run the best in all of my engines compared to the other stuff. I really would dislike going back to odonnells especially smelling the nasty fumes. :(

Anyone know where I can find the needle settings for a CX .12 with slide carb?

Use your oven. Get the case nice and hot and then just tap the case on something. Bearing will come out a lot easier.

...guess not...