Novarossi engines thread
#1232
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 75
I guess it's time to retire my 03
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
It is stock. It's rather hard to tune as for some reason the top needle is a lot more sensitive. I was told that the top needle is more blunt so it's more sensitive but I went on Nova's web site and it shows the same part as the 321P.
Performance wise, I think acceleration especially mid range is surperior than the JP. Top end is also a little faster but that could be just tuning.
Performance wise, I think acceleration especially mid range is surperior than the JP. Top end is also a little faster but that could be just tuning.
#1233
Any of you guys just run on huge tracks? The track I'll be running at is bridgeport CT, which isn't that big. Figure the top would be enough, but thinking of that RB C3 piston sleeve and if it will make my engine weaker than it is or faster if I put it in. I'd receive a great price on it...less than $100.
#1240
Originally Posted by jag
Which ROAR legal pipe/header is recommended for a Rex RER S3 on a fairly large fast track?
Thanks,
jag
Thanks,
jag
#1242
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6
From: Bogota
Hi all,
I am planning to buy an engine for my new MTX-4. I need some advise for getting the most. Here are the facts:
-IFMAR legal. 3 port carb. 5.5 max
-nitro 20%
-9.252 feet (running in Quito)
-no modifications to piston or sleeve.
Thx.
I am planning to buy an engine for my new MTX-4. I need some advise for getting the most. Here are the facts:
-IFMAR legal. 3 port carb. 5.5 max
-nitro 20%
-9.252 feet (running in Quito)
-no modifications to piston or sleeve.
Thx.
#1244
Hey gang. Gotta question. I ran my car today ( MTX-4 ) at my local track and noticed that my engine ( Rex RS3 ) kept on cutting off at about the 3.5 minute mark. This was after the break-in process. I tried changing the glow plug to a #7 and it did the same thing. These are some of the factors im using for this Rex .12 RS3 motor:
1) Fuel: New Byron 30%
2) Plugs: NovaRossi 6 and 7
3) Motor temps: 210-230 degrees F
The motor is new and I just broke it in today. Break-in process:
1) 2 tanks at idle with factory settings ( 15 minute cool down between intervals allowing piston/sleeve expand and contract ).
2) 3-6 tanks ( drove the car by blipping the throttle around the track never hitting full throttle while maintaining and monitoring engine temps ( 150, 160, 170, 180, 190, 200 degrees F ). 10 minute cool down between each tank.
3) 7-15 tanks: started to lean out needles while maintaining tempertures ( 210-230 degrees )
Any ideas on whats going on ? Thanks guys.
Roger Serafin
1) Fuel: New Byron 30%
2) Plugs: NovaRossi 6 and 7
3) Motor temps: 210-230 degrees F
The motor is new and I just broke it in today. Break-in process:
1) 2 tanks at idle with factory settings ( 15 minute cool down between intervals allowing piston/sleeve expand and contract ).
2) 3-6 tanks ( drove the car by blipping the throttle around the track never hitting full throttle while maintaining and monitoring engine temps ( 150, 160, 170, 180, 190, 200 degrees F ). 10 minute cool down between each tank.
3) 7-15 tanks: started to lean out needles while maintaining tempertures ( 210-230 degrees )
Any ideas on whats going on ? Thanks guys.
Roger Serafin
Last edited by Roger; 02-23-2006 at 09:24 AM.
#1245
your LSN is probably extremely rich........with your car on the bench start the engine and when it reach its working temperature hit full throttle for 2~3 seconds and let it idle...........if after 10 seconds you can't get a smooth acceleration of the engine stalls the LSN is rich........proceed the same way until you get a smooth acceleration and the engine RPM stay consistent when idling for 20~30 seconds........



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