Should I remove the additional shims after broken in, I have a keep-on .12 and added 0.2 shims when breaking in, I have been running it with 16% for almost 4 litres since then, thanks in advance,

stock shim is for 16%

Thanks for the input.... that means I have to remove the additional shims 0.2 mm for 16%, thank you.

I bought a Kyosho V-One RR off eBay and it came with a Novarossi SX12 in it. However the head has something else engraved in it (as well as a sticker of the same logo on the body).

Can anyone tell me more about this engine?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1395959194

This is a Serpent NovaMega based on a Novarossi. The engravings are MS the initials of Michael Salven.

It's a Novarossi 3-Port badged as Novamega which was Serpents line of engines about 10 years ago. This is probably an evo1 engine and MS means it's a Michael Salven (owner/designer at Serpent) version which had some basic tuning done I believe. Very good engines in their day.

Dan:

Can we go back to the Impulse Pro days with NovaMega's? Serpent was leader of innovation then as Kyosho Spyder MKII was closed until the V-One R and MTX2 were released.:lol:

Thanks guys. I got the car as a parking lot beater. There is no place around here to race onroad but since I have raced touring cars I couldn't bring myself to buy an RTR beater - so I bought an older hig end car (and got this engine along with a second complete roller to boot).

I raced against V-Ones back in the day (I ran a Trinity Reflex and then an HPI R40) as well as the MTX3s and Serpent Impulses. I too enjoyed that time.

Drew- Not sure where you're at in VA, but a new track is being built here:39597 Wenner Rd.
Lovettsville, Virginia, 20180 They are going to host a leg of the Midwest Series.

Lovettsville is about 4 hours from me. It isn't far from where I grew up (Frederick MD).

you must turn the head 90 degrees so the slot is faced the front of the car.

Ahhhhh the good ol days!!

I have an ISON .21 GT and need to know the factory needle settings. I have a hard time idling now after 2 tanks of heat cycling.

If your motor bogs then dies you are too rich, if its idling very high you would be lean. As you cycle the motor it will go richer so you will need to be on top of that. The Key to a good break in is all temperature. Going back to factory will be extremely rich and give you most likely the same problem. Read the break in bible and also the tuning bible they will help a ton with this. Get the motor warm 180-200 at least for where you are at. Then establish a good idle, idle is all low speed and idle needle balance. Bogs its too rich and you will need to slightly lean.

Factory settings can be found on Novarossi site. If you go to the motor and open the PDFs on the right you can find the stock settings. Everyone's needles will be different in operation though.

Yeah I think I'm running way too fat on the low end because with the body on and the car on the box I'm not hitting 200 at all lol.