195LikesNovarossi engines thread
12-18-2003, 02:32 PM
#31
When the weather is more and more cold now,many people will break their engine due to wrong determining on the engine temperature....yes...me too....
Last edited by dino.tw; 12-18-2003 at 02:46 PM.
12-18-2003, 03:50 PM
#33
Originally posted by Motorman
Dino created a thread some time ago at which temperature you run your own engines in the cold... many of us gave our own approach.
Could be valid for a practice session, but under racing... the most appropiate term is.... Balls out!
12-18-2003, 05:13 PM
#34
Originally posted by afm
during the race the whole clutch assy past every car at the track,
during the race the whole clutch assy past every car at the track,
I do tighten the shaft hard but never had a problem. I did have broken a few crankshaft at the crankpin.
12-18-2003, 05:47 PM
#35
Tech Fanatic
This is some tips that I forgot(sorry) where I got it.
- Before installing the clutch assy, install the engine mount first and use threadlocker(medium/blue).
- Place a wet sandpaper (#400-600) on your table, the flatest you have. I preffer glass surface.
- Sand the lower part of engine mount (w/ engine) in just one direction. If you want to know how well you doing it, mark that lower part with permanent/board maker. So you will amaze with your own skill.
I am not sure wether this will helps or not but I do believe that by doing this, you will reducing huge amount of vibration.
If you have couple engine for each car, go buy engine mount for each of your engine. So you dont have to do that everytim you install an engine.
Another good tip is placing shim before flywheel, as thick as possible (usually I do .5 x 2). You will save your front bearing more and you can adjust your centax with only single shim.
As for the flywheel, do tighten hard as you can. Just remember when you remove it dont whack it off with your plier or driver !!
Buy or borrow a flywheel wrench. Even light/medium tap will effect your bearing coz its high speed type and does not designed to receive an axial load/impact.
Just my 2 cents
- Before installing the clutch assy, install the engine mount first and use threadlocker(medium/blue).
- Place a wet sandpaper (#400-600) on your table, the flatest you have. I preffer glass surface.
- Sand the lower part of engine mount (w/ engine) in just one direction. If you want to know how well you doing it, mark that lower part with permanent/board maker. So you will amaze with your own skill.
I am not sure wether this will helps or not but I do believe that by doing this, you will reducing huge amount of vibration.
If you have couple engine for each car, go buy engine mount for each of your engine. So you dont have to do that everytim you install an engine.
Another good tip is placing shim before flywheel, as thick as possible (usually I do .5 x 2). You will save your front bearing more and you can adjust your centax with only single shim.
As for the flywheel, do tighten hard as you can. Just remember when you remove it dont whack it off with your plier or driver !!
Buy or borrow a flywheel wrench. Even light/medium tap will effect your bearing coz its high speed type and does not designed to receive an axial load/impact.
Just my 2 cents
12-18-2003, 11:56 PM
#36
Tech Regular
If you sand down the engine mounts it will also reduce stress on the crankcase. But to acheive maximum reults you should sand the engine mounts flat everytime you take the engine off.
12-19-2003, 02:18 AM
#37
this is ideal situation. will you do that if you need to take out the engine from your car for maintainence?
12-19-2003, 09:04 AM
#38
yo DR Dibble here i just sent you an email.
hit me back sometime
out
dibs
hit me back sometime
out
dibs
12-20-2003, 09:19 AM
#39
3 / 5 ports
which would be good to run on a small tight and technical track ?
12-20-2003, 03:16 PM
#40
Re: 3 / 5 ports
Originally posted by redsand
which would be good to run on a small tight and technical track ?
which would be good to run on a small tight and technical track ?
You can adjust a little depending which exhaust will use, but answering to your question, your engine is the RR12 (3 or 5 ports - seems that the 5 ports is unavailable at this time).
12-20-2003, 06:06 PM
#41
Originally posted by Corse-R
Have you tried to run an engine about 100 or 110ºC at air temps of 5ºC? You know what means this? MELTDOWN.
Dino created a thread some time ago at which temperature you run your own engines in the cold... many of us gave our own approach.
Could be valid for a practice session, but under racing... the most appropiate term is.... Balls out!
Have you tried to run an engine about 100 or 110ºC at air temps of 5ºC? You know what means this? MELTDOWN.
Dino created a thread some time ago at which temperature you run your own engines in the cold... many of us gave our own approach.
Could be valid for a practice session, but under racing... the most appropiate term is.... Balls out!
12-20-2003, 07:34 PM
#42
Hey guys does anyone know what the factory screw settings r for a JP TS3 its just that I have put a new P/S in the thing and I need to run it in again, I have already looked in the book but I can't find it.
12-21-2003, 04:01 AM
#43
JPs3 problems
ok i have some issues with my jp s3.
it has been running like a bullet since april 2003. no issues what-so-ever. 2 race meets ago it lost alot of top end. last race meet it lost alot of top end and kept stalling.
when it was idling on the bench it would start ok then slowly get louder (like it was getting lean). i'd rev it and it would drop.....then rev up again.
i sealed the carb with loctite blue maxx and it was better but it still wasn't as quick as before?
WHY?
i took it all apart and cleaned it. the sleave had a black ring at TDC. and the casing seemed to have a white coating
i cleaned the casing with carby cleaner and the casing became sticky i use kyosho air filter oil. could the air filter oil be gumming up the internals? (it is the blue stuff very similar to motorbike air filter oil.
should i use loctite blue maxx on the back case plate as well?
it has been running like a bullet since april 2003. no issues what-so-ever. 2 race meets ago it lost alot of top end. last race meet it lost alot of top end and kept stalling.
when it was idling on the bench it would start ok then slowly get louder (like it was getting lean). i'd rev it and it would drop.....then rev up again.
i sealed the carb with loctite blue maxx and it was better but it still wasn't as quick as before?
WHY?
i took it all apart and cleaned it. the sleave had a black ring at TDC. and the casing seemed to have a white coating
i cleaned the casing with carby cleaner and the casing became sticky i use kyosho air filter oil. could the air filter oil be gumming up the internals? (it is the blue stuff very similar to motorbike air filter oil.should i use loctite blue maxx on the back case plate as well?
12-21-2003, 05:46 AM
#44
Re: JPs3 problems
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
ok i have some issues with my jp s3.
it has been running like a bullet since april 2003. no issues what-so-ever. 2 race meets ago it lost alot of top end. last race meet it lost alot of top end and kept stalling.
when it was idling on the bench it would start ok then slowly get louder (like it was getting lean). i'd rev it and it would drop.....then rev up again.
i sealed the carb with loctite blue maxx and it was better but it still wasn't as quick as before?
WHY?
i took it all apart and cleaned it. the sleave had a black ring at TDC. and the casing seemed to have a white coating i cleaned the casing with carby cleaner and the casing became sticky i use kyosho air filter oil. could the air filter oil be gumming up the internals? (it is the blue stuff very similar to motorbike air filter oil.
should i use loctite blue maxx on the back case plate as well?
ok i have some issues with my jp s3.
it has been running like a bullet since april 2003. no issues what-so-ever. 2 race meets ago it lost alot of top end. last race meet it lost alot of top end and kept stalling.
when it was idling on the bench it would start ok then slowly get louder (like it was getting lean). i'd rev it and it would drop.....then rev up again.
i sealed the carb with loctite blue maxx and it was better but it still wasn't as quick as before?
WHY?
i took it all apart and cleaned it. the sleave had a black ring at TDC. and the casing seemed to have a white coating
i cleaned the casing with carby cleaner and the casing became sticky i use kyosho air filter oil. could the air filter oil be gumming up the internals? (it is the blue stuff very similar to motorbike air filter oil.should i use loctite blue maxx on the back case plate as well?
12-21-2003, 07:02 AM
#45
Tech Fanatic
Re: Re: 3 / 5 ports
Originally posted by Corse-R
On small to med tracks, the RR12 is the king
On small to med tracks, the RR12 is the king
Can it beat the NovaMax bottom end ?
