Hi

Anybody know where i can get a new Piston and Liner set for an RR12L5?

Thanks

Hey guys,

I'm looking to replace my Picco G1 XP-21 when it finally dies on me. A couple people have recommend the Nova R1 as a replacement. What I'm looking for primarily is an engine that's easier to tune than the Picco. The Picco's so sensitive that the slightest changes make the biggest difference. ANyways if anyone can recommend a Nova engine thats easier to tune and has pretty good performance let me know. This is for a Mugen 1/8th scale.

Carb Swap
 

Has anyone ever taken a carb off a Novi Rossi .21 and used it on Novi Rossi boat .21. If you have can you tell me what the differnece is????

I have a NS123A1 and have a small issue with it. The engine runs fine and makes good power. I'm able to run it happily around 240- 260F.

The only problem exists is this- when I try to start it when it is hot, it appears the carb is vapor locked and will not allow fuel to enter carb while it is hot, preventing it from starting. If I wait about 5 minutes it will fire up no problem. I've never had an engine do this before, and it sucked this weekend when I flamed out during a 30 minute main on a pit stop. Should have been able to fire it up in a few seconds, but it would not fire due to this problem and I was out of contention!! After waiting 5 minutes it fired right up!!

Any ideas??

fuel= Trinity 20% Monster (Power Blend).

Your engine is too lean.

Most likely your bottom end was too lean. Did it come into the pits reving high?

:nod: :nod: :nod:

Read this trick somewhere and it actually worked. When the carb is hot you need to cool it fast...Pour some fuel on the carb body and it helps. Another trick is with a can of compressed air. You can just blow the air on the carb body and it'll help cool it as well. Yes ultimately you should try to prevent it by vapor locking, but when it happens during a main this will help you get started up quicker. Good luck

Tom,

No it was not revving high. The bottom end is rich if anything- pinch test is a tad higher than I normally run it~ 4 seconds till it stalled out. I didn't think 260F was too bad for sunday in Mentor (HOT!!). I was running 240's saturday and the tank was almost dry after every heat.

You made some nice runs Tom, didn't meet you, but I heard your name called all weekend long.

On my home track I can eliminate the problem by running it around 200F cause the track is small and fuel mileage is not an issue. I've run engines 240- 260 with no issues and good longevity. This thing has got me a little stumped. Guess I'll have to richen it up on the high end as to prevent the vapor locking.

Thanks all!!

I'm not sure who you are but thanks! Perhaps you're clutch tension is too tight. If you're clutch is spooling out too much that could cause high temp on the front of the engine where the carb is. I have this same motor and I had this exact same problem with mine too. I was running 1/8th at mentor so I haven't run it lately to solve the problem yet. By fatting up the bottom end I was able to get the motor restarted. How did you do in mentor? I just had a thought, perhaps running around 200F might not be too bad. Actually 100C (where these motors were designed they use C) is around 210F and that might just be the sweet spot on these new motors. You see before we had motors that had maybe 1 to 1.25 hp, and turned 34K rpm. Now we have motors that turn 1.5 hp and turn 44K rpm. They might need that extra fuel to feed the beast and keep them cool. Fuel comsumption you can play around with by using less nitro, or different pipes because I think at these summer temps 30% might just be too much. Also if you loosen your clutch spring out, you will get better fuel consumption too. I've pit for Ben Puterbaugh and he kept it running around 210 and his motor was fast.

Oh you're using 20% fuel. I'm using 25% byrons. Try switching brands.

What glow plug were you using too?

I was running a MC8 (medium) plug. I usually run the engine around 200F on my home track, but in Mentor I need to lean it out to finish my heats. The engine likes to run around 200F I have noticed also. I'm not used to running on large tracks yet, so I still have a little to learn on tuning for fule mileage. I would like to run Byron's, but I run what my LHS usually stocks- Trinity or O'Donnell 20%. I'll play with the centax a little too. It seems to run good where it is.

In Mentor I was running 4-5th in the B-Main when it stalled pitting. Ended up finishing 6th I believe (losing 5 minutes to get it running again). Not to bad for my first outing in the MWS.

I might make Toledo, but it's a run for me from upstate NY. If I make it, I'll look you up. Thanks for the help.

Wow thats quite a hike for someone from NY. You might have easier time driving to Detroit MWS next through canada.

Short track setup might be part of it. Perhaps gearing could solve your economy. Lower gear ratio would of course keep the revs down. Also the 2speed shift point. Get that 2 speed to shift sooner. I've been in races where tire wear caused me to pit sooner too.

Well, the Great Lakes challenge in Toledo is definately something to check out. You may actually make up in raffel prizes at least half the entry fee.

A little Arturo Carbonell trick: As far as running lean. If you run a bit fatter on the bottom, you can run leaner on the top.

Hmm. I'm not sure about mc8, i'm no expert on these. You might want to go to a colder plug. Colder plug might let you run leaner (I think). This summer anyway you will need to be running cold plugs.

Finally, Check your bearings, drive train, and differentials for any binding. You using a one way?

Good thing we're not at sea level here, how close are you to it?

yeah, i think an rb head was what i used.