Fuel discussion
#1
Tech Fanatic
Thread Starter
Fuel discussion
We can use this thread to discuss fuel related issues.
To start off here is an article for good measure.
http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/nitro_fuel.asp
To start off here is an article for good measure.
http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/nitro_fuel.asp
#2
Regarding oil perc.
I answered to this question previously, but in spite of putting all this info in the same place will repeat it.
I custom blend my own fuel and after some experimenting found some 'recipes' that work very well for me, probably are fine for other people but not necessary to take as GodSpell.
On mine .12 and .21's use mine own blended fuel by many advantages, the most interesting was the possibility of varying the oil percentage and adapt to different conditions.
Did many tests and those 'recipes' are mine own preferred. Quantities are for a full 1litre of fuel
Summer, temps over 25 - 30ºC.
16% (160cc) Nitro.
6% (60cc) Castor oil.
2% (20cc) Synthetic oil.
76% (760cc) Methanol.
This blend only goes with an 8% of oil (Nova and other mfgs. recomend about a 10% of oil), only for serious racing and 'pushing the envelope a little' (remember: Less oil on your fuel, more percentage of Methanol and Nitro, so more power). Use this fuel only on serious racing, more wear to the engine, but more power. Carb adjustment is vital for the correct opeation and health of your engine - USE WITH CARE!
The same goes for the 25%. For a 30% Nitro, just go 1 point higher on the Synthetic oil (3% total). With the higher content of castor, you're getting a better protection at higher rpms and higher temperature (Castor oil burns at 100ºC higher than Synthetic) but as a tradeoff, more deposits are created on the engine (this isn't bad at all, IMHO).
Practice and 'everyday' recipe. (>25ºC)
16% (160cc) Nitro.
6% (60cc) Castor Oil.
4% (40cc) Synthetic oil.
74% (740cc) Methanol.
The same but for temps from 5 to 25ºC, just change to those values of oil.
7% (70cc) Synthetic oil.
3% (30cc) Castor Oil.
This is a more tolerant recipe, but some brands of fuel use more oil than this (11 to 18% of oil) as much oil you put on your fuel, less power has, but better protection (up to a pont, of course) to your engine, going from 8 to 13% of oil is very common to see.
Of course, other people test can show other results, but those are mine best results with Klotz Benol & Original Techniplate oils. Other mfgs can vary the results.
I custom blend my own fuel and after some experimenting found some 'recipes' that work very well for me, probably are fine for other people but not necessary to take as GodSpell.
On mine .12 and .21's use mine own blended fuel by many advantages, the most interesting was the possibility of varying the oil percentage and adapt to different conditions.
Did many tests and those 'recipes' are mine own preferred. Quantities are for a full 1litre of fuel
Summer, temps over 25 - 30ºC.
16% (160cc) Nitro.
6% (60cc) Castor oil.
2% (20cc) Synthetic oil.
76% (760cc) Methanol.
This blend only goes with an 8% of oil (Nova and other mfgs. recomend about a 10% of oil), only for serious racing and 'pushing the envelope a little' (remember: Less oil on your fuel, more percentage of Methanol and Nitro, so more power). Use this fuel only on serious racing, more wear to the engine, but more power. Carb adjustment is vital for the correct opeation and health of your engine - USE WITH CARE!
The same goes for the 25%. For a 30% Nitro, just go 1 point higher on the Synthetic oil (3% total). With the higher content of castor, you're getting a better protection at higher rpms and higher temperature (Castor oil burns at 100ºC higher than Synthetic) but as a tradeoff, more deposits are created on the engine (this isn't bad at all, IMHO).
Practice and 'everyday' recipe. (>25ºC)
16% (160cc) Nitro.
6% (60cc) Castor Oil.
4% (40cc) Synthetic oil.
74% (740cc) Methanol.
The same but for temps from 5 to 25ºC, just change to those values of oil.
7% (70cc) Synthetic oil.
3% (30cc) Castor Oil.
This is a more tolerant recipe, but some brands of fuel use more oil than this (11 to 18% of oil) as much oil you put on your fuel, less power has, but better protection (up to a pont, of course) to your engine, going from 8 to 13% of oil is very common to see.
Of course, other people test can show other results, but those are mine best results with Klotz Benol & Original Techniplate oils. Other mfgs can vary the results.
#3
I got this article from "powermaster", it is more related t air models, but still very interesting and anyway baseline is the same. I personaly love the way how it is written there and agree with that 100%.
http://www.powermasterfuels.com/facts3.htm
http://www.powermasterfuels.com/facts3.htm
#4
Yes,I'm doing cut and paste job....
FIN
Originally posted by kitracer
Questions on fuel.
How much % oil ( Castor / synthetic) content do we really need in our Fuel? I have heard from as low as 3% ( wow!) to as high as 18%.
Which is better, more castor or more synthetic?
I just used a very bad batch of fuel
very bad......
Questions on fuel.
How much % oil ( Castor / synthetic) content do we really need in our Fuel? I have heard from as low as 3% ( wow!) to as high as 18%.
Which is better, more castor or more synthetic?
I just used a very bad batch of fuel
very bad......
Originally posted by Manticore
corse-r might want to share his valuable insight on fuel.
corse-r might want to share his valuable insight on fuel.
Originally posted by Corse-R
I've just answered to this question on the fuel thread, you're welcome to ask anything you may need on those thread.
But will tell you that Castor oils are more suited to withstand with high rpms, a synthetic oil burns at a lower temperature and leaves none, castor leaves some residues that still lubricate and saves you from a very big ouch at the end of the backstraight.
I've just answered to this question on the fuel thread, you're welcome to ask anything you may need on those thread.
But will tell you that Castor oils are more suited to withstand with high rpms, a synthetic oil burns at a lower temperature and leaves none, castor leaves some residues that still lubricate and saves you from a very big ouch at the end of the backstraight.
Originally posted by InitialD
Hey kitracer, you and I had a short discussion on fuels... Which fuel is this are you referring to?
Synthetic oil provides less friction than castor oil due to it's properties. So for serious racing, more synthetic oil is better. For bashing, more castor is better as castor protects engine better.
I believe in the recent 1/8th WC in Ohio, Team Kyosho used 4% of oil in their fuel. This is actually another way of getting a higher percentage of nitro methanol in. Of course this is strickly serious racing and when the sky is the limit when it comes to piston sleeve replacements !
Hey kitracer, you and I had a short discussion on fuels... Which fuel is this are you referring to?
Synthetic oil provides less friction than castor oil due to it's properties. So for serious racing, more synthetic oil is better. For bashing, more castor is better as castor protects engine better.
I believe in the recent 1/8th WC in Ohio, Team Kyosho used 4% of oil in their fuel. This is actually another way of getting a higher percentage of nitro methanol in. Of course this is strickly serious racing and when the sky is the limit when it comes to piston sleeve replacements !
Originally posted by Corse-R
Sorry to pinch your bubble, but Castor oil protects a long way more than Synthetic, because after burning, keeps some residuel that still provides anti seizing protection (Synthetic, just not). Just ask to MS who is now by those forums how much Castor he used on the last Euros in Madrid with more than 35ºC air temp and engines going to sky-high when to temp is related (just a hint: he used more Castor than synthetic, like did Andrea Rossi with their Sirio engines and others...
Castor is the ULTIMATE when to high rpms protection is related, just ask it to Kart racers and MX racers.... and their engines spin at roughly half the rpms than our engines (Some kart engines can spin up to 19000 rpms).
The main tradeoff for Castor and is why is less used is because he leaves residues on the engine, but afterall those residues are fine and shows you how fine is burning your combustion chamber.
Sorry to pinch your bubble, but Castor oil protects a long way more than Synthetic, because after burning, keeps some residuel that still provides anti seizing protection (Synthetic, just not). Just ask to MS who is now by those forums how much Castor he used on the last Euros in Madrid with more than 35ºC air temp and engines going to sky-high when to temp is related (just a hint: he used more Castor than synthetic, like did Andrea Rossi with their Sirio engines and others...
Castor is the ULTIMATE when to high rpms protection is related, just ask it to Kart racers and MX racers.... and their engines spin at roughly half the rpms than our engines (Some kart engines can spin up to 19000 rpms).
The main tradeoff for Castor and is why is less used is because he leaves residues on the engine, but afterall those residues are fine and shows you how fine is burning your combustion chamber.
#5
Tech Fanatic
Thread Starter
Not a bad cut and paste Dino but still not as good as the leader.
THE ABOVE POST BY DINO WAS FROM THE "Welcome to the Exclusive Nitro Engine Zone" THREAD !
Just putting the above note so you're not accused of copyright.
#6
Originally posted by EVOLUTION
THE ABOVE POST BY DINO WAS FROM THE "Welcome to the Exclusive Nitro Engine Zone" THREAD !
Just putting the above note so you're not accused of copyright.
THE ABOVE POST BY DINO WAS FROM THE "Welcome to the Exclusive Nitro Engine Zone" THREAD !
Just putting the above note so you're not accused of copyright.
#7
Have fun!
#8
Originally posted by EVOLUTION
Not a bad cut and paste Dino but still not as good as the leader.
Not a bad cut and paste Dino but still not as good as the leader.
#9
Originally posted by dino.tw
Yes,I'm doing cut and paste job....
FIN
Yes,I'm doing cut and paste job....
FIN
#10
Hey, thanks guys.
having some kind of residue ( burning of Castor oil) is good for the engine.
Manti - I better dump all those Cosmo fuel
having some kind of residue ( burning of Castor oil) is good for the engine.
Manti - I better dump all those Cosmo fuel
#11
Originally posted by kitracer
Hey, thanks guys.
having some kind of residue ( burning of Castor oil) is good for the engine.
Manti - I better dump all those Cosmo fuel
Hey, thanks guys.
having some kind of residue ( burning of Castor oil) is good for the engine.
Manti - I better dump all those Cosmo fuel
#12
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by Manticore
you've got it right buddy ! one of my friend has the same problem you had and he also used cosmo
you've got it right buddy ! one of my friend has the same problem you had and he also used cosmo
coz my friend fr japan is planning to send me some sample..
#13
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Is it bad ?
coz my friend fr japan is planning to send me some sample..
Is it bad ?
coz my friend fr japan is planning to send me some sample..
#14
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by Manticore
i tried 2 litre, not impressed. it has more power, actually similar to o'donnell but tuning spot is narrow. I prefer o'donnell or trinity fuel.
i tried 2 litre, not impressed. it has more power, actually similar to o'donnell but tuning spot is narrow. I prefer o'donnell or trinity fuel.
Personally I prefer Byron.
As for Cosmo, if like kitracer said that it makes excessive carbon build up, my opinion is due to "oil inside" quality.
Maybe I should forget to try it.
Coz it was my main concern when I chose to use byron, best "oil inside" quality. Just my 2cents.
#15
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Thanks for the info...
Personally I prefer Byron.
As for Cosmo, if like kitracer said that it makes excessive carbon build up, my opinion is due to "oil inside" quality.
Maybe I should forget to try it.
Coz it was my main concern when I chose to use byron, best "oil inside" quality. Just my 2cents.
Thanks for the info...
Personally I prefer Byron.
As for Cosmo, if like kitracer said that it makes excessive carbon build up, my opinion is due to "oil inside" quality.
Maybe I should forget to try it.
Coz it was my main concern when I chose to use byron, best "oil inside" quality. Just my 2cents.