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Old 06-17-2007, 06:58 PM   #1
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Default Axial Engine Spec I

Guys, anyone with this Axial Engine? i run-in this yesterday, but according to the manual, it says factory needle setting is at LSN 2.5, HSN 4. However, when i 1st fired up it for the 1st time, i have trouble doing it coz its way too lean on the LSN n HSN. So i rich it furthermore and idle for 1 tank, then head down to track for tuning. After some fine tuning, i end up with LSN 5-1/4, HSN 4-3/4. engine is rather hot, at 110-115degree celcious on a cool evening w/o body shell. It was rather weak on the Low end, but this is the max that it can go, coz when i pinch the fuel tube, it died off w/o even suffocating 1st. Then i used the factory needle setting to test, hmm, hard to start it, need to cover the exhaust hole for fuel to enter, started for 1 sec, died off. so i was thinking how would it be possible to use the factory needle setting? aren't factory setting supposed to be riched? for u to break in???

can anyone help me in this? thanks.
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:12 PM   #2
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We are running about 6-6.25 out on the LSN and around 3 on the HSN, they run great, comes off the track around 210 deg F
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Old 06-18-2007, 06:30 PM   #3
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ok thanks, i shall try this weekend, but i still dun understand as to factory needle shd be rich setting, now we are running even richer than it. Just like to know if low end would be slow since its about 6turns out. but high end i guess shd be flying.
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:11 PM   #4
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Factory needle settings are a starting point. People all over the world run at different altitudes, air temperature, different pipes, the variables are so many, its hard to say "use these needle setings". You have to tune the engine to run correctly, regardless of the factory settings.
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:41 PM   #5
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ok noted with thanks, true oso. i shall try to retune it.
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Old 06-24-2007, 08:00 PM   #6
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guys, i tried the following :

Axial and Palmaris Carb - problem of not smooth fuel entering the carb, so whenever u start the car, at idle, u throttle, it blup, and not steady idle. this is the exact similar problem with Team Orion Wasp. overheating problem existed. spent the whole saturday noon tuning with these 2 carb, give up and went home after 5hrs of tuning.

Nova Carb - problem solved. pop in my RB carb with the same tuning that i have inside my RB case fitted with BRB (the one that piston broke), so fine tune by richen the HSN. all problem gone. This is Sunday, me started to smile. hahaha...

But it seems it has the similar power compared to Palmaris. only noticed a slight, very slight more power, not very noticable. Problem with this is unable to start when engine is hot. i guess thats due to the metal carb of nova. so the only thing that i like about Palmaris carb is no matter how hot the engine, it still can be started.
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Old 07-01-2007, 08:51 PM   #7
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i used RB carb with OS carb inlet of 6.5mm, only lasted for about 5.07min with HEC 6mm pipe. this is not very good, so i changed to VXR 6mm pipe, power was lousy, then i changed back to HEC pipe, with OS Speed Red Alum Carb inlet of 5.4mm, now i have about 6mins+ per tank, now i can lean a little bit more.

so guys, may i ask whats the difference between using different carb inlet? the smaller the better?
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Old 07-02-2007, 06:58 PM   #8
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I use a 9mm carb on mine with an 086 pipe, I tried 11 different pipes and this one worked the best for me. I also just bought a new 28RR Axial and my God you want to talk about top end, its got it. On the carb situation, ive replaced all the stock orings in my axial carbs and they are fine, the stock orings leak and you will have problems but if you put a good set of orings in them, seems to be just fine and I have no tuning problems until the top end starts to wear out or the front bearing is leaking.
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:40 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loopedout View Post
I use a 9mm carb on mine with an 086 pipe, I tried 11 different pipes and this one worked the best for me. I also just bought a new 28RR Axial and my God you want to talk about top end, its got it. On the carb situation, ive replaced all the stock orings in my axial carbs and they are fine, the stock orings leak and you will have problems but if you put a good set of orings in them, seems to be just fine and I have no tuning problems until the top end starts to wear out or the front bearing is leaking.
I think the guys here are discussing the .12 engine!
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Old 07-03-2007, 08:22 AM   #10
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ahhh, im so narrow minded, I was thinking damn a 6mm!! wtf?
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Old 07-03-2007, 06:12 PM   #11
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yup, i m talking about .12 onroad engine here. keke... sorry.
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Old 07-12-2007, 03:34 AM   #12
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My friend works in the axial factory and he provided me with a modified axial .12rr spec 1. I believe that he put a novarossi carb on there with an 8.5mm insert and the motor just screams. It keeps pulling and it never stops. I am running the motor with the skyline vr12 plus pipe and i works pretty well for me. My temps off the track are about 100 degrees c. so its pretty good.
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Old 07-12-2007, 03:45 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V for Victory View Post
My friend works in the axial factory and he provided me with a modified axial .12rr spec 1. I believe that he put a novarossi carb on there with an 8.5mm insert and the motor just screams. It keeps pulling and it never stops. I am running the motor with the skyline vr12 plus pipe and i works pretty well for me. My temps off the track are about 100 degrees c. so its pretty good.
Now thats interesting.... axial factory
8.5mm insert may be too big unless you in KZ then I will just take the insert OFF..
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Old 07-12-2007, 03:51 AM   #14
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Hmmm.... how did u know i race at KZ?? Are u a mind reader? No its not an official factory engine but my friend who works there modified it. Yes but it does scream!
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Old 07-12-2007, 03:52 AM   #15
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Does anyone know what aftermarket cooling head would fit this motor? are the holes lined up for nova engines?
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