Hi Boy's
I use the evo2 P7-R that are tuned by solaroli and i found them to be very good,they tune very easy and produce very good power.
What has me shocked the most is that i have put close to 18lts of fuel through the motor and i can't see or feel any slop on the conrod.
But in saying that,i have had to change the bearings.

(I am very happy with my motors.) ;) ;) ;)

Great atomization of fuel, more low end, and mor top end with our ported liner,and with our super lightweight conrod (with a particular superficial treatment with increase the strenght of 50% mutued from F1 :nod: )
We have a new superficial treatment for cranckase of 5000 vikers...
and more.....
sorry for language....
Ciao bello

these motors are pretty fast i was surprised :D

I ran one for the 1st round @ the winternats really impressed with it smooth powerband great torque realy rips the mods that are done to the sleeve leave enough to add a little more to it can't wait to see when Murnan gives it a little more. It's worth the money right out of the box

Shimming
 

For those of you using the engine, how are you shimming for nitro content? The manual says to add (1) .1mm shim for 30%. Others have said to use (2) .1mm shims.

The real head clearance of these new based Picco engines can be calculated as follows:

Real head clearance = Thickness of head shims + 0.05mm*
* (that‘s due to the internal construction of the engine and the compression of the head shims, when the cooling head is mounted)

Adjust the shims depending on nitro-content (see table)

Nitro content: 16% 20% 25% 30%
Real head clearance: 0.45mm / 0.45mm / 0.55mm / 0.65mm
Head shims: 0.40mm / 0.40mm / 0.50mm / 0.60mm

Large tracks may require an extra 0.10mm shim to reach higher top speed and improved fuel consumption, but this will decrease acceleration slightly.

AFM

Just to confirm, for 30% I need a "real head clearance" of .65mm which will require .60mm of shims? I don't want to screw this up. I think it comes stock with (2) shims. I will check tonight to see if they equal .40mm.

Does this engine have the same dimensions as the Mega ZX12? I run .55mm worth of shims in my Mega.

Thanks for the info.

Yes, you need place shims up to 0.60mm, and if you need more top end add one 0.10mm

No, this new Picco based engines have different sleeve and head button than old Mega ZX12...the new Mega ZX 12 DSII Plus, that will arrive to USA soon will be like the IDM.

AFM

This information is inconsistant with what is in the manual. The engine comes stock with a .20mm and .10mm shim (.30mm total) for use with 20-25% nitro. They recommend adding another .10mm shim (.40mm total) for 30%. Where did your information come from?

My information comes from hands on = real experience with Picco engines and Picco based engines. But if you want to be sure, then measure real combustion chamber of your engine and take it from there.

Take all the shims and measure the head button recess and the piston to the top of the liner at top dead center and subtract to determine real combustion chamber without shims. This is the only way to really know. Then add shims accordingly to what I said on my table.

AFM

Measuring head Clearance
 

Lotsa people have asked me in the past on how to measure head clearance, and with all this talk on head clearance here are two methods that I use. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

1) Probably the simplest method to measure existing head clearance with all the shims in place is to do the solder test. Remove the plug from the motor. Take a length of solder of about three inches in length and bend one end into an L shape. A small .25" of bend should be plenty. Rotate the flywheel unti the piston just closes the exhaust port. Push the L part of the bend into the plug hole and turn the solder so that the bent part contacts the piston liner wall. Rotate the fly wheel completely over tdc and back down the liner. Pull the solder out and measure the squished part for true head clearance. This is an okay test to give you an idea on head clearance. Make sure you don't break any solder off in the combustion chamber!!

2) The second method I use requires removing the combustion chamber head.
Here I take two short threaded screws with washers and screw them in the head screw holes until the washers contact the pistion liner. This is to hold the liner in place when you turn the motor over. Gently!! Turn the flywheel over until piston reaches tdc. On some new motor this can be tough because the piston really wants to push the liner out of the crankcase. Measure the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the liner and write that down. Then measure the distance between the top of the head button to the start of the combustion chamber dome and write that down. Subtract those two numbers and you have your head clearance. If you took the shims off the head button while measuring you must subtract that number from the difference to get head clearance.

Hi Ray J

Absolutely correct, but I prefer and use the second method (Thanks to Dennis R). It is more precise.

AFM

Hi Alfonso.........Dennis has taught me so much about engines in the past years. It such a pleasure to have him just down the road from me. I hope he gets back into it again sometime. Our sport just needs more people like him. He is just such a helpful unselfish man.

YES Absolutely...we miss Dennis around here...hope he makes comeback soon :nod:

AFM

Hei AFM

I sent a mail to you. Tkx if you can answer.

MEM