IDM Picco
Has anybody tried one of these yet?
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I have not tried one yet. If they are as good as I've heard that they are it is going to be in my car for the summer.
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I just picked one up today. I will let you know what I think. A friend is running one and likes it.
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idm
can you post some pictures of the motor . i don't even know what they look like .thks :D
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This is what it looks like... except they have the carb on backwards. :weird:
http://www.topcar-radiomodelismo.com/motores_picco.htm I will take some pics of mine when I get a chance. |
Originally Posted by isuzuguy
can you post some pictures of the motor . i don't even know what they look like .thks :D
http://www.competmodels.com/ just click on the Picco logo and browse all models AFM |
Is this considered a mod motor (like EB Mods) or is it a designer motor?
Jim ~ Are you going to run the stock carb? |
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Is this considered a mod motor (like EB Mods) or is it a designer motor?
Jim ~ Are you going to run the stock carb? Picco makes the latest Picco .12 engine in several fashions. Original Picco: Picco Evo2 Picco Evo2 Edoardo Picco Modified (Factory Mod called Edo Evo2) What you would call designer, or made under specs: IDM Evo2 LRP Spec3 Ofna JLR Red Dot Mega Zx DsII Moded or Tuned: Solaroli Tuned (Italy)...no sure if it's allready a designer engine right now WP Tuned (Italy) MR Tuned (Spain) Maxy Modified (USA) There could be others, but this is what I know so far, and all of them are very powerfull and competent engines which incorporate new lighter cranks, new carb, new conrod, new piston/ sleeve, and new head button...not sure thow on the Mega DSII or LRP...haven't seen their insides. I Have the OFNA JRL and the Picco Edo and they rock at par with any top engine on the market today. AFM |
Originally Posted by afm
Ok Lets see if this makes sense
Picco makes the latest Picco .12 engine in several fashions. Original Picco: Picco Evo2 Picco Evo2 Edoardo Picco Modified (Factory Mod called Edo Evo2) What you would call designer, or made under specs: IDM Evo2 LRP Spec3 Ofna JLR Red Dot Mega Zx DsII Moded or Tuned: Solaroli Tuned (Italy)...no sure if it's allready a designer engine right now WP Tuned (Italy) MR Tuned (Spain) Maxy Modified (USA) There could be others, but this is what I know so far, and all of them are very powerfull and competent engines which incorporate new lighter cranks, new carb, new conrod, new piston/ sleeve, and new head button...not sure thow on the Mega DSII or LRP...haven't seen their insides. I Have the OFNA JRL and the Picco Edo and they rock at par with any top engine on the market today. AFM Do you agree? |
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Jim ~ Are you going to run the stock carb?
I'm going to pull it apart tonight, clean it and have a good look at it. :sneaky: |
Originally Posted by jag
I agree with what you stated but I think I would put the IDM in both the "designer" and "modded" because some of the crank work is done by hand while the rest of the engine is manufactured to ID's specs.
Do you agree? The carb works fine...very stable... Break it in very rich, almost at factory settings with Nº 6 glow plug...one tank at idle and then 25 minutes at the track... After break in use Picco or Mega Nº 7 glow plug and set your low end needle at about 8 turns out and your high end at about 5 turns out...it takes several laps to warm up before you touch any needle for fine tuning from there... Enjoy AFM |
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Originally Posted by carletto
How does your WP Picco compare with the Edo?? The backplate indentation not only reduces the possibilty of conrod friction, but it also increments crankcase volume...more top end or more low end??? Salutti AFM |
Thanks guys. As always, great info. :)
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Hi guy's i run the picco evo2 solari tuned 12 motor,it took a little while to run in but now this engine is a weapon and it holds it's own with all the top brand engines,it loves to run between 100-110c with a 7plug
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Hi Boy's
I use the evo2 P7-R that are tuned by solaroli and i found them to be very good,they tune very easy and produce very good power. What has me shocked the most is that i have put close to 18lts of fuel through the motor and i can't see or feel any slop on the conrod. But in saying that,i have had to change the bearings. (I am very happy with my motors.) ;) ;) ;) |
Originally Posted by afm
Ciao Carletto
How does your WP Picco compare with the Edo?? The backplate indentation not only reduces the possibilty of conrod friction, but it also increments crankcase volume...more top end or more low end??? Salutti AFM We have a new superficial treatment for cranckase of 5000 vikers... and more..... sorry for language.... Ciao bello |
these motors are pretty fast i was surprised :D
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I ran one for the 1st round @ the winternats really impressed with it smooth powerband great torque realy rips the mods that are done to the sleeve leave enough to add a little more to it can't wait to see when Murnan gives it a little more. It's worth the money right out of the box
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Shimming
For those of you using the engine, how are you shimming for nitro content? The manual says to add (1) .1mm shim for 30%. Others have said to use (2) .1mm shims.
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Originally Posted by jag
For those of you using the engine, how are you shimming for nitro content? The manual says to add (1) .1mm shim for 30%. Others have said to use (2) .1mm shims.
Real head clearance = Thickness of head shims + 0.05mm* * (that‘s due to the internal construction of the engine and the compression of the head shims, when the cooling head is mounted) Adjust the shims depending on nitro-content (see table) Nitro content: 16% 20% 25% 30% Real head clearance: 0.45mm / 0.45mm / 0.55mm / 0.65mm Head shims: 0.40mm / 0.40mm / 0.50mm / 0.60mm Large tracks may require an extra 0.10mm shim to reach higher top speed and improved fuel consumption, but this will decrease acceleration slightly. AFM |
Originally Posted by afm
The real head clearance of these new based Picco engines can be calculated as follows:
Real head clearance = Thickness of head shims + 0.05mm* * (that‘s due to the internal construction of the engine and the compression of the head shims, when the cooling head is mounted) Adjust the shims depending on nitro-content (see table) Nitro content: 16% 20% 25% 30% Real head clearance: 0.45mm / 0.45mm / 0.55mm / 0.65mm Head shims: 0.40mm / 0.40mm / 0.50mm / 0.60mm Large tracks may require an extra 0.10mm shim to reach higher top speed and improved fuel consumption, but this will decrease acceleration slightly. AFM Does this engine have the same dimensions as the Mega ZX12? I run .55mm worth of shims in my Mega. Thanks for the info. |
Originally Posted by jag
Just to confirm, for 30% I need a "real head clearance" of .65mm which will require .60mm of shims? I don't want to screw this up. I think it comes stock with (2) shims. I will check tonight to see if they equal .40mm.
Does this engine have the same dimensions as the Mega ZX12? I run .55mm worth of shims in my Mega. Thanks for the info. No, this new Picco based engines have different sleeve and head button than old Mega ZX12...the new Mega ZX 12 DSII Plus, that will arrive to USA soon will be like the IDM. AFM |
Originally Posted by afm
The real head clearance of these new based Picco engines can be calculated as follows:
Real head clearance = Thickness of head shims + 0.05mm* * (that‘s due to the internal construction of the engine and the compression of the head shims, when the cooling head is mounted) Adjust the shims depending on nitro-content (see table) Nitro content: 16% 20% 25% 30% Real head clearance: 0.45mm / 0.45mm / 0.55mm / 0.65mm Head shims: 0.40mm / 0.40mm / 0.50mm / 0.60mm Large tracks may require an extra 0.10mm shim to reach higher top speed and improved fuel consumption, but this will decrease acceleration slightly. AFM |
Originally Posted by jag
This information is inconsistant with what is in the manual. The engine comes stock with a .20mm and .10mm shim (.30mm total) for use with 20-25% nitro. They recommend adding another .10mm shim (.40mm total) for 30%. Where did your information come from?
Take all the shims and measure the head button recess and the piston to the top of the liner at top dead center and subtract to determine real combustion chamber without shims. This is the only way to really know. Then add shims accordingly to what I said on my table. AFM |
Measuring head Clearance
Lotsa people have asked me in the past on how to measure head clearance, and with all this talk on head clearance here are two methods that I use. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
1) Probably the simplest method to measure existing head clearance with all the shims in place is to do the solder test. Remove the plug from the motor. Take a length of solder of about three inches in length and bend one end into an L shape. A small .25" of bend should be plenty. Rotate the flywheel unti the piston just closes the exhaust port. Push the L part of the bend into the plug hole and turn the solder so that the bent part contacts the piston liner wall. Rotate the fly wheel completely over tdc and back down the liner. Pull the solder out and measure the squished part for true head clearance. This is an okay test to give you an idea on head clearance. Make sure you don't break any solder off in the combustion chamber!! 2) The second method I use requires removing the combustion chamber head. Here I take two short threaded screws with washers and screw them in the head screw holes until the washers contact the pistion liner. This is to hold the liner in place when you turn the motor over. Gently!! Turn the flywheel over until piston reaches tdc. On some new motor this can be tough because the piston really wants to push the liner out of the crankcase. Measure the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the liner and write that down. Then measure the distance between the top of the head button to the start of the combustion chamber dome and write that down. Subtract those two numbers and you have your head clearance. If you took the shims off the head button while measuring you must subtract that number from the difference to get head clearance. |
Originally Posted by RayJ
Lotsa people have asked me in the past on how to measure head clearance, and with all this talk on head clearance here are two methods that I use. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
1) Probably the simplest method to measure existing head clearance with all the shims in place is to do the solder test. Remove the plug from the motor. Take a length of solder of about three inches in length and bend one end into an L shape. A small .25" of bend should be plenty. Rotate the flywheel unti the piston just closes the exhaust port. Push the L part of the bend into the plug hole and turn the solder so that the bent part contacts the piston liner wall. Rotate the fly wheel completely over tdc and back down the liner. Pull the solder out and measure the squished part for true head clearance. This is an okay test to give you an idea on head clearance. Make sure you don't break any solder off in the combustion chamber!! 2) The second method I use requires removing the combustion chamber head. Here I take two short threaded screws with washers and screw them in the head screw holes until the washers contact the pistion liner. This is to hold the liner in place when you turn the motor over. Gently!! Turn the flywheel over until piston reaches tdc. On some new motor this can be tough because the piston really wants to push the liner out of the crankcase. Measure the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the liner and write that down. Then measure the distance between the top of the head button to the start of the combustion chamber dome and write that down. Subtract those two numbers and you have your head clearance. If you took the shims off the head button while measuring you must subtract that number from the difference to get head clearance. Hi Ray J Absolutely correct, but I prefer and use the second method (Thanks to Dennis R). It is more precise. AFM |
Originally Posted by afm
Hi Ray J
Absolutely correct, but I prefer and use the second method (Thanks to Dennis R). It is more precise. AFM |
Originally Posted by RayJ
Hi Alfonso.........Dennis has taught me so much about engines in the past years. It such a pleasure to have him just down the road from me. I hope he gets back into it again sometime. Our sport just needs more people like him. He is just such a helpful unselfish man.
YES Absolutely...we miss Dennis around here...hope he makes comeback soon :nod: AFM |
Hei AFM
I sent a mail to you. Tkx if you can answer. MEM |
Originally Posted by jag
This information is inconsistant with what is in the manual. The engine comes stock with a .20mm and .10mm shim (.30mm total) for use with 20-25% nitro. They recommend adding another .10mm shim (.40mm total) for 30%. Where did your information come from?
You can also call pete from pnp he also ran the IDM @ the winternat's as well |
AFM
Tkx for your replay. I'll be in touch. |
Originally Posted by GMartinez
Jag for the winternats we added 2 mega shims because the dimension from the factory are not the same when you actually measure the shims it be slightly less than the manual states. I think we actually measured .45 after we added the 2 shims.
You can also call pete from pnp he also ran the IDM @ the winternat's as well Thanks for the input. |
is it easy to get parts for this motor? and where?
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Originally Posted by moy
is it easy to get parts for this motor? and where?
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Originally Posted by moy
is it easy to get parts for this motor? and where?
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Originally Posted by jag
You can get anything you need for this engine at PNP Hobbies (321) 723-7318. Pete will take care of you, he is a great guy.
Pete Pepe Rocks!!!! |
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